Its easy. The head unit Bose/Symphony is the same.
With the stereo power off, hold down the #5 radio station/pre-select button. Then power up the head unit. The default codes (8) will appear, if no adjustments Have been made. In default mode, it should read 55555555. You can change each setting by moving the volume control, then hitting
P-SCAN button on the right side to move to the next digit.
I have played with these EQ settings and have found that with a little patience, you can actually make the Bose system sound like a halfway decent car audio system. Try different settings, starting with the bass and mid-bass, front and back (the 1st and 2nd digits then 5th and 6th digits) and sample different CDs (FM radio will work but not as obviously). Then start fiddling with the other 4 digits. When you get it to sound the way you like it, some tweaking of the regular three EQ **** settings can alter it further - particularly for different CDs.
The Bose system bass will always be sloppier than it should, but I have tightened it up quite a bit.
BTW, you can turn on the Symphone radio without a key - just hold the on button down for a couple of seconds. As explained previously, hold the #5 preset button down while turning on the stereo system to access the EQ.
Finally, if you hold the P-scan button down while turning on the stereo, you will have access to other adjustments, some of which are not disclosed the manual. Use the manual for instructions on getting to the menus.
- 2013 A6 3.0T Prestige, Quartz Gray/Black, 19" Sport, Driver Assist, LED headlights,Cold Weather and B&O;
Bridgestone RE970AS tires; XPel Ultimate full front, mirrors and rocker panels, Opti-coat Pro - 2002 allroad 2.7t - 14y/55K mi and still like new - 2009 A4 3.2 Prestige w/Nav (sold at 4y/48K mi) - 2001 A6 2.7t (sold at 8y/98K mi)
Plus, I run the tone controls flat, except one notch down in the treble.
Now I can play it much louder without running away screaming! It isn't a very good audio system (mine's Bose), but it is much better now that it is adjusted! Thanks.
It is just based on a half hour testing, but my wife and I are particularly good at audio auditioning...
I found that the fronts have a honk in the upper mid, and can sound harsh in the lower treble. So, I had to turn down the upper mid/lower treble.
The rears were a bit plump in the upper bass, are reticent in the mid and upper mid, but are pretty hot on the top.
The woofer in the trunk sounds better now that I've added some damping to the compartment it is in. I'm not sure that partially blocking the port is a good idea (as others have tried)... instead, I believe that the tubbiness is largely due to the compartment in which the woofer is mounted. Just a theory, we'll see....
I wrapped a halogen fire extinguisher in thin foam padding and stuffed it right side up next to the woofer, on the port side. I filled the area below the woofer with terrycloth towels (for interior spills) and Griot's cotton cloths (for the painted surfaces). Now my trunk is neater, and my woofer is too.
There is still a bit of tubbiness in the bass, but I left it this way for two reasons. One is that rumble from road noise masks the bass, so you need a bit more than you would think (as judged while engine is off). The other reason is that the cabin speakers have a rather high low-frequency cutoff, so I like to fill in the "power band" with a bit more mid-bass. Bass lines now sound fairly flat over pitch/frequency.
I plan to replace everything but the head unit when I have selected the right equipment and installer. The head unit will stay for awhile, to see how good/bad it sounds.
If I decide to replace the head unit, I'll take my time to find a good looking model with red illumination (my favorite, top of line Nakamichis come with orange... not quite there). Also, I may wait until a good sounding, non-gaudy looking (without the garish animations and ugly 3-Dish graphics) unit appears that also has hands-free operation, phone integration, and GPS/navigation. Won't be more than a couple of years.
My all-vintage-Nakamichi system in my Accord (for sale!) shows up this system terribly. But, that equipment is old enough, I don't feel quite like moving it to the new car. Plus, it is tuned so well to the Accord, I'm hoping to sell it all in one.
Great post. Have you considered adding a sub like I did?
The equipment was given to me to try by one of my clients, so it is not the best quality stuff. But my impression is that the Bose system (just like in their home stuff) does a pretty decent job of producing everything to just above mid bass, then just gives up.
I will be switching to a single 10" or 12" Band pass box in the next few weeks, with a much higher quality driver. The double 10 is just too big, but the band pass boxes seem to produce bass further up towards the mid bass than a sealed box, which is just what the Bose system needs to "fill in" the gaps.
I did add an attenuater for the amp running the sub, and that works great.
Since the Bose system is an "all or nothing" upgrade, the sub-woofer is the only real choice to Upgrade instead of replace.
Fascinating stuff, here. All the things you can never find out from the dealer, Audi USA, or the damn manuals. I have the A6 Avant w/o without the Bose. From what people have told me, I probably did well to save the extra $750, but I think the Symphony speakers can stand some upgrading. Adjusting the EQ, however, does help quite a bit. Main point of this entry is the sub that is in the Avant. It is built by Blaupunkt, so I am guessing the other speakers in the doors are also likely the same maker. Does anybody know for sure, but the sub in the Avant seems to
feed into elongated grillworks running along the bottom length each rear-most windows. The sub is built into a compartment on the right side, filling most of it. I tried an experiment, though. Most of you sedan owners are looking for ways to block it off. On the other hand, in the Avant, I have experimented by driving with the sub's access panel removed. I don't know if I am crazy or not, but I swear my sound quality went up dramatcially, after I removed the panel. The access panel has sound damping material on its inside surface. Any thoughts? Maybe I should be cutting a vent into this panel?
I tried radical settings like 99991111 and 11119999 and heard absolutely no difference. And I'd say I'm quite sensitive to such variations - I heard none. Bummer. I put my phone number in there instead :-P
Audiablo: Experiment only with fader all the way to front or back...
The settings you describe won't change the tonal balance...Only the volume. The first 4 are front settings, the second 4 are back.
Settings like 99991111 and 11119999 simply lower the front speaker volume across the spectrum while raising the rear speaker volume, and vice versa. Try instead 96319631 or 13691369, and you'll hear the difference.
Tip: ALWAYS experiment with one pair (front, back) at a time!
Symphony: the first 4 digits are front spkrs, second 4 are back. Here's how to do it...
The readout says 55555555 initially. Each digit is a band for either front OR rear speakers.
A= low bass front
B= upper bass front
C= lower treble front
D= upper treble front
E= low bass back
F= upper bass back
G= lower treble back
H= upper treble back
What this means is that the EQ bands are really wide, not quite narrow enough to fix some of the problems I hear. But the bands are narrower than the three tone controls in the dash.
How to do it:
First, access the settings... see this message. Then, follow these steps:
1. Use well-recorded natural sounding CDs (preferably not synth or dance music).
2. Don't use FM stations because they all sound different.
3. Set the tone control ***** to flat. These you will use later only to adjust between sources (CDs, tape, FM).
4. Listen at a loud level so you can really tell what band sounds too loud or too soft.
5. Always experiment only with front OR rear speakers, using the fader at one extreme or the other.
- Adjust the fader so only the front are playing. Then adjust the first 4 digits until it sounds flat on several songs or CDs. Keep the settings near 5, and only change those bands that need a little more or a little less. In other words, 9999 is not a useful setting.
- When done, shift fader to rear, and adjust only the second 4 digits. Your goal is to make the front speakers sound like the back speakers, which should both sound like live unamplified music.
- When done, set the fader where you like it and check that it sounds good.
- In my 2001 A6 4.2L sedan, I thought that 6535 6474 sounded pretty flat, perhaps a bit bass-heavy if you play it loudly.
6. If the bass still sounds too bloated in the upper bass or too undamped (lags behind the music), then try either putting towels or other damping material next to and below the woofer in its compartment, or try also putting some taut electrical or duct tape across part of the port in the side of the woofer, as someone else here has recommended at this link... the more of the port is blocked, the more effect it will have. I haven't tried the tape trick, so I can't comment. You can also try leaving the compartment door off.
Another option is to add a crossover to the woofer. I don't think Bose rolls off the highs, at least not by much because the highs still can be heard rather loudly out of the woofers. One could make a crossover and add it to the system. I'd try a 6 dB rolloff at around 100 Hz. Any more effort than this, the woofer doesn't deserve... just replace it.