Brake fluid flush, how much fluid?
#11
Like I said, the sensor wire got cut (((the light to change brake pads went on))) and she thinks there is a difference. I did not notice anything unusual, I saw the brake pads myself, so I know they are still good...
So can I do the vag-com bleeding even if there is no air in the system, with the original fluid?
So can I do the vag-com bleeding even if there is no air in the system, with the original fluid?
#12
i have never had to activate the ABS pump. (ergo no vag com required)
unless you somehow got air in it, it should not be the problem. And i believe its out of the system anyway while inactive. Others, no?
You will use the pressure bleeder on other cares, i would expect. but do what you want.
G
unless you somehow got air in it, it should not be the problem. And i believe its out of the system anyway while inactive. Others, no?
You will use the pressure bleeder on other cares, i would expect. but do what you want.
G
#13
you ssaw both outside *AND* inside pads?
The inside wears faster - it is pushed by the piston. The outside is pushed only by the "equal and opposite force" and if the caliper is not floating smoothly, wears relatively little.
G
The inside wears faster - it is pushed by the piston. The outside is pushed only by the "equal and opposite force" and if the caliper is not floating smoothly, wears relatively little.
G
#14
agree must distinguish between mush and high effort. Disagree on fluid - why use super blue, which absorbs water faster than say, GT-LMA, if the car is a DD?
I think that's a bad idea.
And if you use the measures i gave earlier, you don't need the color change. Further, the color will change, from dark to light.
G
I think that's a bad idea.
And if you use the measures i gave earlier, you don't need the color change. Further, the color will change, from dark to light.
G
#16
AudiWorld Super User
Sounds like your faster solution is to simply strip the sensor wire and wind it together and tape it until you get new pads.
If the pads have more than 2mm on both pads they aren't at the service limit. OTOH, if the ridge on the outside of the rotor is pretty big, it will wear the outside of the pad and the rotor will hit the brake pad backing plate before the pad material itself is worn. You'll HEAR the metal-to-metal noise but braking will probably not be significantly affected. At that point it's generally accepted that it's time to change pads if not rotors as well.
If the pads have more than 2mm on both pads they aren't at the service limit. OTOH, if the ridge on the outside of the rotor is pretty big, it will wear the outside of the pad and the rotor will hit the brake pad backing plate before the pad material itself is worn. You'll HEAR the metal-to-metal noise but braking will probably not be significantly affected. At that point it's generally accepted that it's time to change pads if not rotors as well.
#17
AudiWorld Super User
The reason I don't use GT-LMA is I had a bad experience with Girling master cylinders on Saabs. The fluid turned black and the pedal got mushy/went to floor within 16 months (outside the one-year warranty on the rebuilt master cylinder). Castrol wouldn't cover it, neither would the vendor. I went through two master cylinders...on the second one I gave up on the Castrol and used ATE Blue...no problems ever since.
That being said, the local Audi dealer uses Castrol GT-LMA fluid if you ask at the parts counter for brake fluid.
Another reason is the color...it's just easier to see the clean fluid. Personal preference.
That being said, the local Audi dealer uses Castrol GT-LMA fluid if you ask at the parts counter for brake fluid.
Another reason is the color...it's just easier to see the clean fluid. Personal preference.
#18
AudiWorld Super User
One other point I just found out that Florida doesn't allow blue brake fluid according to TireRack.
ATE does sell the brake fluid in amber color for Florida residents.
ATE does sell the brake fluid in amber color for Florida residents.
#19
The reason I don't use GT-LMA is I had a bad experience with Girling master cylinders on Saabs. The fluid turned black and the pedal got mushy/went to floor within 16 months (outside the one-year warranty on the rebuilt master cylinder). Castrol wouldn't cover it, neither would the vendor. I went through two master cylinders...on the second one I gave up on the Castrol and used ATE Blue...no problems ever since.
That being said, the local Audi dealer uses Castrol GT-LMA fluid if you ask at the parts counter for brake fluid.
Another reason is the color...it's just easier to see the clean fluid. Personal preference.
That being said, the local Audi dealer uses Castrol GT-LMA fluid if you ask at the parts counter for brake fluid.
Another reason is the color...it's just easier to see the clean fluid. Personal preference.
http://www.pentosin.net/pressrelease...uperDOT4_2.pdf
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...BrakeFluid.pdf
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...S_RESSDOT4.PDF
Last edited by ezveedub; 03-07-2012 at 06:25 AM.
#20
Simple, just use ATE Typ 200 Amber fluid. Same specs as Blue.
Last edited by ezveedub; 03-07-2012 at 06:39 AM.