Cam Timing On Bank 1 Cylinder Head (Pass Side)....Wont Line Up with Notches HELP?????
12-24-2013, 05:35 AM
#11
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????
Exhaust valves are opened on cylinder one and the intake valves are open on cylinder two....Is that more clear for you.....So when the engine is all back together what are the positions of these valves on banks one and two.....
12-24-2013, 10:05 AM
#12
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When I rebuild an OHC engine I put the heads on and then the cams so all of the valves are closed when I put the head on the block. Then install the cams in the proper position. Easier that way. No need to worry about which valves are open and closed etc. Think about that for awhile. Pin the crank at TDC and proceed. Merry Christmas.
12-24-2013, 10:27 AM
#13
Maybe, you don't want to hear this but let me say it again kindly: Read the manual. You do have the manual right? Find where your engine is @TDC. Install pin, Try to turn the camshafts (if you can, prior to mounting) so that both exhaust & intake cams' marks line up with bearing caps' marks. Complete mounting head and torque things down, using Cam-Lock bar to get cams to align, install T-Belt and complete the rest of installation.
Really, stop worrying with all the rest just like you wouldn't be bothered with say, the friction coefficient on a wet road two miles ahead. You'd just make sure you have good tires, wheels bolted down properly and drive. That's it.
Nothing wrong with wanting to know the coefficient or what valve is opening when @piston 4-1/2 etc., just not going to change installation instructions. Just follow steps to get it going.
Really, stop worrying with all the rest just like you wouldn't be bothered with say, the friction coefficient on a wet road two miles ahead. You'd just make sure you have good tires, wheels bolted down properly and drive. That's it.
Nothing wrong with wanting to know the coefficient or what valve is opening when @piston 4-1/2 etc., just not going to change installation instructions. Just follow steps to get it going.
Last edited by tester123; 12-24-2013 at 10:33 AM.
12-24-2013, 10:37 AM
#14
12-27-2013, 06:03 AM
#15
I get what you are saying, and the answer to your question is that your cams have spun in such a manner as to press the valves open. I am not sure how the marks are lined up and your valves are open. Something is off.
You are asking us to tell you if the valves can be open when the engine is at TDC, but YOU HAVE THE HEADS OFF THE ENGINE. You can look and see for yourself. Pin the block at TDC and see if the piston in question is at the top, middle, or bottom of the stroke.
The safest thing to do, which isn't what you want to here but is the right way to do it - is to pull the cams from the head so that nothing can open the valves, and then re-install the cams once they are bolted to the head and use the alignment tools to get it right.
You are asking us to tell you if the valves can be open when the engine is at TDC, but YOU HAVE THE HEADS OFF THE ENGINE. You can look and see for yourself. Pin the block at TDC and see if the piston in question is at the top, middle, or bottom of the stroke.
The safest thing to do, which isn't what you want to here but is the right way to do it - is to pull the cams from the head so that nothing can open the valves, and then re-install the cams once they are bolted to the head and use the alignment tools to get it right.
12-27-2013, 11:13 AM
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+10 Put the heads on without the cams then do the cams correctly.
12-27-2013, 03:26 PM
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For you and me yes for him no. He's totally confused about how to time them and it will be way easier to put the heads on and then drop the cams in. He's got valves open and he's not sure if he's at TDC. Major problems. Plus looking at the photos it doesn't look like the shop has them anywhere close to proper. We'll see. Happy New Year!
12-27-2013, 06:26 PM
#19
I am with 4Driver4 on this. What the OP needs to do is to get the engine to TDC, lock it and start trying to put the heads back in. If the valves are sticking out (when both intake & exhaust cams are aligned properly) and it is possible that the valve may or may not be (since I never removed head on Audi) sticking out. In that case, just make sure the piston of that appropriate cylinder is down and there is clearance for the open valve.
If that is not happening, turn the camshaft sprocket (head unmounted) a complete turn(s) until cams are aligned again on bearing caps and try installing it.
If it is still not working, Tow the car to dealer with heads in the trunk. (I don't know what else to say beyond that)
If that is not happening, turn the camshaft sprocket (head unmounted) a complete turn(s) until cams are aligned again on bearing caps and try installing it.
If it is still not working, Tow the car to dealer with heads in the trunk. (I don't know what else to say beyond that)
12-27-2013, 06:35 PM
#20
With all due respect, if you think he is confused with putting heads back on with engine @ TDC, he'd be completely lost after pulling the cams out. There is that chain link count to deal - which is annoying with that 1/2ish link and alignment of cams...(I had them out 2 or 3 times and took a while to get it right before starting the engine). One mess up here = high probability of bent valves! Plus, the seals for tension adjuster, cam seals, proper installation/torque of bearing caps (remember, they are aluminum and don't enjoy any improper screwing)... So, with all that in front of hm, I am inclined to say that it may not be a good route.