02AudiA6

I have 2002 Audi A6 3.0L Quattro and it has a leak with burning oil smell inside the car. Just starting to fix the problem and at the same time replaing the timing belt. I got the write up for the timing belt but searching write for the camshaft seal procedure but none apply for the 3.0L and none of the picture look even close at what I am looking at. At this point I have my valve cover off with the cam lock in place. My question is beside the four front camshaft seal; is there seals in the back of the shaft near the firewall? I got the camshaft seals from Blau part with four seals-GH12005-I believe that's for the front cam seals. Also I am also looking to replace the crank seal since it's included in the timing belt kit. Thanks in advance.

jcman

The cam ends go through the head with 3 sealing rings and a seal into the CAV housing, the rear don't need seals with the CMP housings.

IMO if you don't see oil around the CAV "camshaft adjustment valves" don't fix what ain't broken, if you do see oil "or" the engine fits a very high mile profile here is the procedure.

Good Luck!

BTW, how does the exhaust cam lobes look?
Can you post some pics of the cam lobes please.

02AudiA6

Thanks JC for taking the time to answer my questions. I can see traces of oil outside one of the camshaft seal at the front side of the engine in the passenger side. When I open the valve cover I see oil collected near the bottom of the cover. It looks like it leak from the seal and it dripped down around the head and run to the back of the head then dripped down to the exhaust manifold. Hard to tell since I had the car sitting for awhile since I had other leaks-Prop shaft leak(tackle that next). Furthermore,I did not see any leak from the backside of the block from the valve cover down near the camshaft adjustment valve(CVS) housing. I will post some pictures tonight when I get home on the cam lobe.


I did had a mishap after my post yesterday. I had a hell of a time taking out the 6mm socket on top of the block at the power steering bracket so I can remove the water pump. I had a long extension with the 6mm tightly fitted into the opening between the IM actuator. I decide to use the impact wrench to loosen it. I slipped and broke the intake manifold actuator. Now I am looking for a IMA replacement.

02AudiA6

Furthermore,I did not see any leak from the backside of the block from the valve cover down near the camshaft adjustment valve(CVS) housing.

.[/QUOTE]

Correction.-I mean to say Camshaft Position(CMP)housing not CVS housing.

jcman

Hey no problem for the info.

A friend with a A4 3.0 broke one of his pivot arms only to find out that the dealership sells the whole unit for some ridiculous amount so he actually found a whole used manifold with the manifold actuator change over unit on it at ebay for 80 bucks and swapped out the units, I remember helping him do this and it was no really big challenge.

What did you break on the manifold actuator?

02AudiA6

Yeah I just brought one from Ebay. I broke the internal plastic taps that is connected to the cylindrical plastic shaft. I should of took it out first before I try to use the impact wrench.

Attached are the cam lobes.

jcman

Cool! You saved a few bucks I'm sure, just a side note with the replacement, be very very careful and pay close attention to how the back side disk snaps on the spool with a small spring in the center.

Thanks for sharing some pics and the lobe wear looks normal, as you probably already know the right side exhaust lobes have prematurely worn-out for some folks with the 3.0, can you share the year and miles on your engine along with the oil and filter you use?

I have a 3.0 too at 80k with no issues.

02AudiA6

No problem. My car is 2002 3.0L with 130K on it. This is the second timing belt change. I did it early because of the camshaft seal leak. The first timing belt change was around 80K. Now, I am wondering should I change the alternator also since it's has 130K on it. I don't hear any bearing rattle yet and the charge is still strong. I just don't want to take everything apart again to just change the alternator. My wife is already giving me a hard time on spending too much time in the garage. If I don't fix it soon, she's going to force me to get a new car.

jcman

You should be able to get at least 25k more miles on the alternator, I don't about an iron clad answer but I do know our old 01 has 149K running around with the same one, and I generally think the same way and do it with my GM service vans at 120K "different quality" of course.

Try posting that question, I'm sure you will hear about the average life of the brushes, bearings and v-regulators.

Too much time in the garage?

It sure beats too much time away from home like in a bar or doing nothing, I never get complaints when I'm saving money at home.


BTW, what oil and filters have you been using?

Huskerbob

I know the feeling. When my A6 crapped a timing tensioner, with the wife driving, she said "that's it" get that thing fixed and sold and get a new car. I sold it and bought an A4. Well, she didn't say "and not an Audi" HAH

As for the alternator I agree about not wanting to go back in there for just that. I found one at Oreilly Auto parts and it was the exact same one as the old unit. Not too cheap, about $350 for a Beck-Arnley or $175 for an Ultima. Seems like after 130,000 on the clock it could be time. It might get your sweetheart off your case for a while. Good luck.