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Check Engine Light - Three Codes Displayed

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Old 04-12-2014, 02:37 PM   #1
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Default Check Engine Light - Three Codes Displayed

Hey all,

I have a check engine light that pops on and stays on for no obvious reason.

I ran VCDS and these codes popped up:
Quote:
17831 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 1
P1423 - 35-00 - Insufficient Flow
17819 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 2
P1411 - 35-10 - Insufficient Flow - Intermittent
16805 - Warm Up Catalyst; Bank 1
P0421 - 35-10 - Efficiency Below Threshold - Intermittent
Anyone of these you would tackle first??? And any good sources on where to begin? Thanks!
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Old 04-12-2014, 04:48 PM   #2
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I'd be putting 12v on the sai pump and see if it runs. If you have vagcom you can turn it on.
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Old 04-12-2014, 10:33 PM   #3
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Also check that the hoses are all connected to the sai pump. One might be loose or partially connected(leak).
The 16805 code might be caused by the sai pump. Otherwise that is not too good: either O2 sensors or cat bad on passenger side. But it says intermitent so I'm guessing sai pump issues.
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:18 PM   #4
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Thank you both for the input! Ill be digging in tomorrow or Tuesday and report back.

Fingers crossed.

On a side note, I cleared the errors to get rid check engine light and "pass" the state inspection; The car failed. ://

Unbeknownst to me, when the computer errors are cleared, the test comes back as NOT READY! :// Inspector said drive for about a hundred miles under 60 and come back. #oops {URL="http://goo.gl/Nj3O7N"][see test results][/URL]
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:20 PM   #5
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guess the html didn't work : test results
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:56 AM   #6
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yup he is right ... get yourself a generic obd2 reader that has the emmisions lighs on it ( red yellow/ green .. ) when the light goes green go get your certificate. You went in with the light yellow .. monitors not set
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:42 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vitamin View Post
guess the html didn't work : test results
Oldie but a goodie..you can set readiness codes using a vag-com:

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1477650

If you don't have a couple days to drive around including highway driving to get the ECU to set them by itself.

Least expensive way is to do what Airbag said..get an OBDII reader that will tell you emissions are ok/green.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:54 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com View Post
Least expensive way is to do what Airbag said..get an OBDII reader that will tell you emissions are ok/green.
Will the ross-tech vagcom act as an OBDII
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com View Post
Least expensive way is to do what Airbag said..get an OBDII reader that will tell you emissions are ok/green.
Will the ross-tech vagcom act as an OBDII reader? Am I reading that correct?

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 04-14-2014, 11:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vitamin View Post
Hey all,

I have a check engine light that pops on and stays on for no obvious reason.

I ran VCDS and these codes popped up:


Anyone of these you would tackle first??? And any good sources on where to begin? Thanks!
I had same sai code and O2 codes, along with random misfire on all cylinders. Turned out it was the PCV (3" pancake) took the valve apart and found it was completely full of congealed oil! Cleaned it out and reinstalled 2 days ago, no cel since.
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:26 PM   #11
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The air injection system is used to warm up the converters. So ignore the cat code until the air injection is working. If you have vagcom using the output tests is easy, see if the pump blows, and not leaking out of a hose, and check that the vacuum lines to each air valve is intact. You can check vacuum by starting the engine cold and verifying vacuum is present at both lines on the air valves while the pumps running. If all passes, use a vacuum pump and be sure the air valves diaphragms are not torn and leaking. If still no solution, remove the valves and be sure the ports not clogged and the air valve actually opens and air flows through.
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clueless racer View Post
I had same sai code and O2 codes, along with random misfire on all cylinders. Turned out it was the PCV (3" pancake) took the valve apart and found it was completely full of congealed oil! Cleaned it out and reinstalled 2 days ago, no cel since.
Thanks for tip. This the PCV u reference? (I miss my 1971 Nova .. ha)

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 04-14-2014, 01:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prospeeder View Post
The air injection system is used to warm up the converters. So ignore the cat code until the air injection is working. If you have vagcom using the output tests is easy, see if the pump blows, and not leaking out of a hose, and check that the vacuum lines to each air valve is intact. You can check vacuum by starting the engine cold and verifying vacuum is present at both lines on the air valves while the pumps running. If all passes, use a vacuum pump and be sure the air valves diaphragms are not torn and leaking. If still no solution, remove the valves and be sure the ports not clogged and the air valve actually opens and air flows through.
Ah yes...good info. Just tested the pump via vagcom and it sounds like a turbine. Can't imagine thats normal but not sure. Don't feel any immediate leaks.
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vitamin View Post
Ah yes...good info. Just tested the pump via vagcom and it sounds like a turbine. Can't imagine thats normal but not sure. Don't feel any immediate leaks.The Sound
SAI can sound like a turbine.
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vitamin View Post
Thanks for tip. This the PCV u reference? (I miss my 1971 Nova .. ha)

Click the image to open in full size.
Yes that is the PCV valve for 2.7T
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:52 PM   #16
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The real question is whether there are any plugged passages. The 'spider' tubing is legion for problems/plugged, the PCV may get plugged first and then the spider tubing, who knows. Chicken/egg?
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:59 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com View Post
SAI can sound like a turbine.
Thanks Sloop.

Ya'll have been major help. Thank you. The SAI pump is blowing good, PCV and lines pretty clean.

Think I found the culprit...or at least part of the culprit (see image).

Getting ready to go get re-inspected... does the following (see image) mean I am ready to go? or is there something else I need to check for "readiness?"

Lastly, what is MIL Status: MIL OFF mean? anything to be concerned about?

Cheers

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by vitamin; 04-14-2014 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vitamin View Post
Thanks Sloop.

Ya'll have been major help. Thank you. The SAI pump is blowing good, PCV and lines pretty clean.

Think I found the culprit...or at least part of the culprit (see image).

Getting ready to go get re-inspected... does the following (see image) mean I am ready to go? or is there something else I need to check for "readiness?"

Lastly, what is MIL Status: MIL OFF mean? anything to be concerned about?

Cheers

Click the image to open in full size.
MIL off means the Malfunction Indicator Light is off.
That cracked hose goes to the infamous Kombi valve…Audi's word, not mine…LOL. I like those little clamps, audi unique dealer item I think…they're clamped on with a CVJ boot clamp tool or a specialty audi tool. Looks like you may be able to cut the hose at the break and put it on the kombi valve with a worm drive clamp? You can twist the OEM clamp off with a diagonal cutters or a cvj boot clamp tool if you have one. That's probably only temporary until the hose breaks again…once you get a break that's indicative of a tired/old/brittle hose. This cvj clamp tool from summit racing is about the least expensive one I've seen...
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