Prospeeder

The air injection system is used to warm up the converters. So ignore the cat code until the air injection is working. If you have vagcom using the output tests is easy, see if the pump blows, and not leaking out of a hose, and check that the vacuum lines to each air valve is intact. You can check vacuum by starting the engine cold and verifying vacuum is present at both lines on the air valves while the pumps running. If all passes, use a vacuum pump and be sure the air valves diaphragms are not torn and leaking. If still no solution, remove the valves and be sure the ports not clogged and the air valve actually opens and air flows through.

vitamin

Thanks for tip. This the PCV u reference? (I miss my 1971 Nova .. ha)

vitamin

Ah yes...good info. Just tested the pump via vagcom and it sounds like a turbine. Can't imagine thats normal but not sure. Don't feel any immediate leaks.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

SAI can sound like a turbine.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Yes that is the PCV valve for 2.7T

SloopJohnB@mac.com

The real question is whether there are any plugged passages. The 'spider' tubing is legion for problems/plugged, the PCV may get plugged first and then the spider tubing, who knows. Chicken/egg?

vitamin

Thanks Sloop.

Ya'll have been major help. Thank you. The SAI pump is blowing good, PCV and lines pretty clean.

Think I found the culprit...or at least part of the culprit (see image).

Getting ready to go get re-inspected... does the following (see image) mean I am ready to go? or is there something else I need to check for "readiness?"

Lastly, what is MIL Status: MIL OFF mean? anything to be concerned about?

Cheers

SloopJohnB@mac.com

MIL off means the Malfunction Indicator Light is off.
That cracked hose goes to the infamous Kombi valve…Audi's word, not mine…LOL. I like those little clamps, audi unique dealer item I think…they're clamped on with a CVJ boot clamp tool or a specialty audi tool. Looks like you may be able to cut the hose at the break and put it on the kombi valve with a worm drive clamp? You can twist the OEM clamp off with a diagonal cutters or a cvj boot clamp tool if you have one. That's probably only temporary until the hose breaks again…once you get a break that's indicative of a tired/old/brittle hose. This cvj clamp tool from summit racing is about the least expensive one I've seen...