MrSniperRifle

So I'm in the process of replacing the passenger's side axle on my '01 A6 Quattro and I've run into the notorious Pinch Bolt problem: it won't come out.

Everything else has come apart fine but the pinch bolt stubbornly refuses to let fee my UCA from its bonds. Are there any tips or tricks to releasing this damn thing? My next step is going to be to put an impact gun on the bolt end and hammer away. Also in my infinite wisdom I decided to try heating it and pounding it out with a hammer. This seemed to be going well until the end of the bolt mushroomed and bent. Now the nut will not go on . There is plenty of room for the nut if I can get it on, would it be safe to just cut off the offending bit of bolt and thread the nut on? If not where can I go about procuring a new pinch bolt?

02a62.7t6spd_madman

Well the end is mushroomed so if you get enough thread, I say leave the nut on and unbolt the upper arm assembly - 3 bolts from the to to get the arms loose and be able to swing the arm out to get the axle out. I am dealing with this myself, I redid the boot a few years back(like 3) and I used antiseize and now the new pinch bolt is effin with me once more.

Oh and my outer tierods are busted and seized too!! AAARG.

We will prevail!

MrSniperRifle

Well that's the problem: the nut is off the pinch bolt. So it won't go back on (trust me I tried).

I think the main problem with removing the pinch bolt is the rustiness of it and the odd angle it's in it. Makes trying to get any tool in there a PITA.

Kris Hansen

2 thinks.. First, never touch that thing unless you have to, unless you're like me, and you remove it every so often to lubricate it.

second, you do not have to remove this bolt to get the axle out. It's much easier to remove both lower control arms from the INNER position, and swing the whole upright out as a whole to gain the needed clearance for axle removal.

So, you now have a few options. What I'd do, cut the mushroomed part off, and try to get the nut on. If that fails, go buy some PB blaster, and soak the hell out of the knuckle. If you have an air hammer, use it to work on the bolt. If not, get one. I've had luck with an air hammer on one end, and an impact gun on the other end working in tandem.

I've also spent 4 hours drilling and hammering to remove one single pinch bolt, so I know exactly what you're dealing with.

you can get new bolts at the dealer, or any hardware store with a good selection of metric sized bolts. It's nothing special, just long. It's only job is to pinch the knuckle on the ball studs, it's not holding anything much in terms of strength.

And when you put it in, make sure you liberally apply some anti-seize compound on the bolt.

old96A4

I've done this before. Make sure the weight from the whole strut is not keeping the pinch bolt in. happened to me once, jacked up at the bottom and the pinch bolt tapped right out after figting with it for a while. And I agree you dont't have to take the pinch bolt to get the axles out. Take the lower control arms off like described above. I know this doesn't help now.

MrSniperRifle

I was thinking about doing this: jacking up the hub assembly and trying the pinch bolt that way. Wasn't sure if it would help but I guess it's worth a shot. Coupled with a impact gun it might come out (I'm hoping).

After dicking with the thing for a couple of hours I was honestly tempted to just removed the LCAs. However I wasn't sure where I should remove them since there is a plethora of different bolts holding them on. If I need to, should I remove them at the hub mount or at the sub-frame/chassis mount? I'm not totally sure what you mean by "inner position".

I should also note I am not used to dealing with this complex of suspension. Both my previous cars were just standard McPherson Strut front suspensions, one of them being Ford's lovely "Modified McPherson Strut".

I've got work now, guess I'll give this a whirl when I come home.

mkb

Same experience as yours. Was not able to get the pinch bolts off. Tried drilling/smacking with a hammer/heating/PB Blaster. Nothing worked. Even after I removed the entire hub assembly, was not able to get that damn bolt out. Had to get a used hub assembly. Then some time later, I tried the other side. Again, no dice. This time I took it to a shop and they were able to remove it. I asked the mechanic how he did. He said he cut the bolts off, took a hammer and just wacked it out.

When I replaced the axles on my A6, I ended removing the LCA. I think there are 2 bolts directly underneath the hub. Take these off. I loosened the bolts on the sway bar link. Actually, I found I had to loosen the all the LCA bolts so that the LCA could "drop" from the hub.

Don't know if that makes sense?

--
mohammed
99 a6 2.8q avant
97 a4 1.8tqa

audifirst

I have done both front axles and I was able to remove them without disconnecting control arms, there is enough room to disconnect the axles at transmission and move it right toward front and push in and able to pull out the axles at the wheel

jschick

I have learned that I first loosen the nut just a few threads, hit with hammer, if it doesn't move it's siezed and only go further if you have too!!
to remove a seized pinch bolt the best way I have found to get the out it to put a breaker bar on the bolt end and just bust the head off. the bolt normally seizes in the center section and now you can spray it with liquid wrench and use a large screwdriver and hammer to spread the seam open and to relieve any tension. now you will need a torch, I use just a plain old propane torch and have yet to have a problem, heat it up good and spray the bolt a few times(only the bolt, the cold spray will shrink the hot bolt and draw the liquid into the metal hub). get yourself a good punch, ideally as close to the bolt size as possible to prevent mushrooming the bolt. tap it out from the bolt Head end. so you push the threaded end out. once it is hot you can see the liquid wrench bubbling and penetrating the into the hole around the bolt, now it will come right out. if you don't see it bubbling and starting to penetrate your not done heating! typically this takes about 20-30 minutes to get them out. the threaded end of the bolt always seems more then likely to mushroom then the other.

scottv

I'll tell you how I just did my Passat upper control arm bolts. I used a Dremel and cut the bolt in the pinch closes to the head of the bolt. 1/2 turn and it popped out. Then I put a larger nut (inside diameter) on the bolt end (acts like a bushing) and then the original net. As you tighten on the nut, it will draw the bolt out. Make sure you use a lot of grease on the surfaces between the two nuts to reduce friction. Made taking the bolts out a 10 min job per side. Of course you will need to replace the bolt, but they are easy to find and you should do that anyway. Make sure you put anti-seize on the new bolt and nut when assembling.

No more BFH and lots of cussing this way!