Control Arm Kit Options - AudiWorld Forums

Go Back   AudiWorld Forums > Audi Models > Audi A6 / S6 / RS 6 > A6 / S6 (C5 Platform) Discussion
Log In 


A6 / S6 (C5 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the C5 Audi A6 and S6 produced from 1998-2004

Control Arm Kit Options

Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-26-2014, 01:21 PM   #1
AudiWorld Member
 
Gsrob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 183
Default Control Arm Kit Options

So I've done quite a bit of research on complete control arm kits. My car has the standard clunks in the front end that most a6s with 140k miles would after never having any replacements. A while ago, someone on here reportedly used a Vaico kit from Ecs... They seemed to have favorable things to say but clearly didn't have much mileage on them for a durability opinion. I'd rather not take a chance and have to replace something 20k miles from now.

Which brings me to the control arm kit density line from 034 motor sports.. Anyone here have favorable reviews? It look like it was recommended by several posters at audizine but none that owned it personally.

Edit.. I forgot to mention that I didn't link the kit since my phone is being uncooperative.

Last edited by Gsrob; 03-26-2014 at 01:22 PM. Reason: Adding information
Gsrob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2014, 02:42 AM   #2
Audiworld Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 79
Default

Not sure about those brands, but I've purchased kits from Blauparts for both my A6's and have been very happy:

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail....A1102%2D02%2DA
__________________
gacollier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2014, 02:45 AM   #3
Audiworld Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 79
Default

And here's some propaganda on the Ocap kit...

http://www.blauparts.com/audi/audi_c...arms_kit.shtml
__________________
gacollier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2014, 04:27 AM   #4
AudiWorld Senior Member
 
Huskerbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,155
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsrob View Post
So I've done quite a bit of research on complete control arm kits. My car has the standard clunks in the front end that most a6s with 140k miles would after never having any replacements. A while ago, someone on here reportedly used a Vaico kit from Ecs... They seemed to have favorable things to say but clearly didn't have much mileage on them for a durability opinion. I'd rather not take a chance and have to replace something 20k miles from now.

Which brings me to the control arm kit density line from 034 motor sports.. Anyone here have favorable reviews? It look like it was recommended by several posters at audizine but none that owned it personally.

Edit.. I forgot to mention that I didn't link the kit since my phone is being uncooperative.
I got a Meyle kit from ECS and it's fine. Most of those kits look like they were made in the same factory so price might be the decider.
__________________
2001 A6 Quattro Avant 2.8l (sold)
2000 A4 Quattro Avant 1.8l t auto
2003 Eddie Bauer Exploder 4.0 4x4
Huskerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2014, 06:49 AM   #5
Audiworld Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 99
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskerbob View Post
I got a Meyle kit from ECS and it's fine. Most of those kits look like they were made in the same factory so price might be the decider.
For my '00 A^ Avant ( 130,000miles) I installed a full Febi /Bilstein kit from German Auto Parts, along with new Boge shocks. I also upgraded the outer tie rod ends to the ones used in the S6 without a rubber isolator.
The kit installed perfectly - and I'm totally amazed with the result.
Be certain to follow the instructions and not torque the mounting bolts without the suspension in curb weight position.
If you do not follow this the rubber bushings will fail very prematurely.
Good luck!
nickcarguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 01:47 PM   #6
AudiWorld Member
 
Gsrob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 183
Default

Thanks for all of the recommendations... Anyone care to comment about the mileage/durability they've seen out of their kits? Husker, I've gotta say that they all look the same to me too. I'm not opposed to spending a little bit more if I am really getting a little bit more. But I don't want to over spend for basically the same parts.
Gsrob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2014, 07:30 PM   #7
AudiWorld Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 233
Default control arms

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsrob View Post
Thanks for all of the recommendations... Anyone care to comment about the mileage/durability they've seen out of their kits? Husker, I've gotta say that they all look the same to me too. I'm not opposed to spending a little bit more if I am really getting a little bit more. But I don't want to over spend for basically the same parts.
Yes, they all do look similar, but trust me there is a BIG DIFFERENCE. At 135K I replaced all of mine with a no-name kit I got on ebay....BIG MISTAKE. The ball joint in the upper front driver is completely trashed in only 12K miles. I'm also looking for feedback on Meyle HD and 034 density line. thanks
autlaw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 03:40 AM   #8
AudiWorld Senior Member
 
Huskerbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,155
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsrob View Post
Thanks for all of the recommendations... Anyone care to comment about the mileage/durability they've seen out of their kits? Husker, I've gotta say that they all look the same to me too. I'm not opposed to spending a little bit more if I am really getting a little bit more. But I don't want to over spend for basically the same parts.
I only have about 5,000 on the Meyle kit so not enough miles to give you a durability rating. They still feel tight over the rough stuff so I'm happy. I think proper installation, i.e. correct torque at ride height, is critical.
__________________
2001 A6 Quattro Avant 2.8l (sold)
2000 A4 Quattro Avant 1.8l t auto
2003 Eddie Bauer Exploder 4.0 4x4
Huskerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 06:03 AM   #9
AudiWorld Super User
 
SloopJohnB@mac.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Olney, MD
Posts: 6,251
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by autlaw View Post
Yes, they all do look similar, but trust me there is a BIG DIFFERENCE. At 135K I replaced all of mine with a no-name kit I got on ebay....BIG MISTAKE. The ball joint in the upper front driver is completely trashed in only 12K miles. I'm also looking for feedback on Meyle HD and 034 density line. thanks
Gotta wonder if trashing a set of ball joints in 12K on a car with 135K isn't a function of worn shocks….
SloopJohnB@mac.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 07:13 AM   #10
AudiWorld Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 233
Default shocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com View Post
Gotta wonder if trashing a set of ball joints in 12K on a car with 135K isn't a function of worn shocks….
the shocks are tight, the only thing I can figure is that I upgraded at the same time to a complete set of stock S6 suspension components (shocks, springs, etc.), they are very tight, so should eliminate as much movement. Also, I did torque all arms while car was on the ground.
autlaw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 07:13 AM   #11
Tech Guru
 
4Driver4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 33,261
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com View Post
Gotta wonder if trashing a set of ball joints in 12K on a car with 135K isn't a function of worn shocks….
How?
__________________
4Driver4

Growing old is mandatory; growing up is optional.

2005 A6 Sedan Q 3.2 (wife's whip)
2003 S8 (Q Ship)
2000 A4 Avant Q 2.8 (daily driver)
1999 BMW M Coupe (clownshoe)
1980 VW Scirocco (mid-life crisis car)
1983 Mazda RX-7 (revolutionary sports car)
1999 Mazda Miata SSB (track beotch, no plate)
2003 GMC Yukon Denali XL (the anti-earth)
2004 Dodge Dakota (hey, at least it's stick and 4x4)
4Driver4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 02:11 PM   #12
AudiWorld Super User
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 5,961
Default

Reports from the field over many, many years say that OEM (TRW/Lemforderer) outlast any of the kits. That said, i suspect that many amateur mechanics, or just plain sloppy ones, dont torque them at neutral ride height, which will kill anything.

Some report the meyle HD kit looks like an improvement, but the miles and years are not in to judge it yet.

Grant
__________________
glenahan@vee-eff-email*dot*net
Just Me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 02:14 PM   #13
AudiWorld Super User
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 5,961
Default

I'm not saying that's the answer, but easy. Anything that allows for more rapid vibration causes more wear. Out of balance wheels and tires do the same thing.

Grant
__________________
glenahan@vee-eff-email*dot*net
Just Me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 02:25 PM   #14
AudiWorld Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,110
Default

So, I have all the control arms off of my car now - how do you ensure you torque at "neutral" ride height? Just jack the hub with a floor jack until it looks right? What is the procedure? Thanks for the help!
jseklund is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 02:47 PM   #15
AudiWorld Member
 
Gsrob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 183
Default

*NOTE 3: To ensure a long life for these control arms, when they are installed, it is IMPERATIVE that the suspension be compressed to static ride height before any suspension pivot bushings are tightened. If this is not done, bushings will tear as the twisting forces on them will be much higher than is intended. If you have any questions about this, please contact us to verify, if this is not done any warranty will be voided.

From 034 Motorsports website....
Gsrob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 03:56 PM   #16
AudiWorld Super User
 
SloopJohnB@mac.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Olney, MD
Posts: 6,251
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jseklund View Post
So, I have all the control arms off of my car now - how do you ensure you torque at "neutral" ride height? Just jack the hub with a floor jack until it looks right? What is the procedure? Thanks for the help!
When you take the top bracket out with the UCAs attached, you measure the drop through one of the holes (or the angle of the UCAs) and duplicate that drop or angle when you bolt in the new uca(s).
If you change the ride height you change the neutral angle appropriately.
There's actually a picture in the Bentley on the proper angle as measured by the drop through the hole.
SloopJohnB@mac.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2014, 04:08 AM   #17
AudiWorld Senior Member
 
Huskerbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,155
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jseklund View Post
So, I have all the control arms off of my car now - how do you ensure you torque at "neutral" ride height? Just jack the hub with a floor jack until it looks right? What is the procedure? Thanks for the help!
Yes. Sort of.

When I replaced mine I measured from the center of the wheel hub to the bottom of the wheel well at normal ride height.
I then placed the front end on jack stands and proceeded to remove the various suspension components. I pulled the shock/spring assembly as a unit w/UCAs attached.

I replaced the upper control arms on the bench and got them approximate by doing one at time and installing the new one as close to the old one as possible.

Once that was done I re-installed all the components and got them snugged up. Then I jacked the hubs up to the dimension I had measured previously and torqued all the fasteners to spec.

Once the vehicle was back on the ground I checked as many of the fasteners as possible with the wheels on.

Not sure that this method is by the book but it was the way I could skin the cat at least.
__________________
2001 A6 Quattro Avant 2.8l (sold)
2000 A4 Quattro Avant 1.8l t auto
2003 Eddie Bauer Exploder 4.0 4x4
Huskerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2014, 04:45 AM   #18
AudiWorld Super User
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 5,961
Default

Put the full weight of the corner on the hub or lower control arm at or near its end. That's neutral ride height.

My method was to lower the car (using a lift) onto 4 jack-stands positioned below the hubs.

Have inner bushings loose. Tighten to spec, or guttentite.

Grant
__________________
glenahan@vee-eff-email*dot*net
Just Me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2014, 05:10 AM   #19
AudiWorld Member
 
OGBULLYLOCDAWG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 275
Default

I torqued everything down with the strut/shock assembly out. I left the upper bracket in place with the upper control arms.

That allowed let me jack the hub and control arms up to the measured ride height(fender to center of axle bolt when the car is on the ground) without lifting the car off the jackstands.


Then I snuck the assembly back in place.
__________________
2001 Audi A6 2.8(ATQ) Quattro

Last edited by OGBULLYLOCDAWG; 04-08-2014 at 05:13 AM.
OGBULLYLOCDAWG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2014, 06:39 AM   #20
AudiWorld Super User
 
SloopJohnB@mac.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Olney, MD
Posts: 6,251
Default

I set the UCA angle this way:

When the upper shock mount bracket is removed, you can also check the original A dimension. If it's less than A use the lesser dimension.

You can also measure this dimension on the car when the suspension is loaded…it should be the neutral position of the UCAs.
Attached Images
 
SloopJohnB@mac.com is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:23 PM.


Copyright 2014 AudiWorld.com Audi Enthusiast Community