BeOhBe

Hello all! I bought a 2004 A6 2.7t s-line two weeks ago, and I'm running into a few minor issues. No engine or tranny issues, aside from a horribly damaged flex hose that connects to my combi valves (was throwing a p0492 code). Will post some pictures of the frankenhose that I took off, it had two previous shoddy makeshift repairs on it. I had a pretty good laugh when I took it off and saw just how bad that hose was. Ordered a new hose, tried to put it on, put it doesn't seem to want to fully clip on to the passenger side combi valve.

So my first question is this: If the new hose won't click and stay on that combi valve, is it possible that I need to replace the actual combi valve? Is the connection failure on the valve itself? With the two junk repairs on the hose, could they have damaged the actual valve? I don't see any damage, but I can't seem to get the new hose to securely connect on the passenger side. The old hose came off that side way easier than it should have, so it seems like that was a problem previously. Had a hell of a time gettin the old one of the drivers side valve, though. Ended up having to break the old hose completely just to get it off that one. The p0492 code is for insufficient flow on the drivers side, and sure enough it was cracked underneath the snap-on silver cover that goes over the bend at the end. It seems to be connected well on that valve, but the passenger side just won't connect properly. I've cold started her three or four times now since I installed the new hose, but the CEL is still on. A friend of mine, who owns an '08 S4, is coming over in the morning with his Ross Tech, so I'll know more about the CEL then.

Second question: I also had the clicking hazard relay issue. I received a new relay this morning, replaced it, and the clicking is now an even more annoying buzzing as soon as I turn the key. I didn't have any issues with the turn signals before, they worked fine, as did the hazards.
Is the turn signal stalk my next move? I searched the forums, and found similar topics, but nothing seemed an exact match. The clicking that was happening before came in bursts of five or six clicks, and it would happen randomly. I ended up putting the old relay back in for now. I also sprayed some contact cleaner in at the base of the stalk. It still clicks, but it seems like it clicks less. Not positive, though, as I only drove it to work and back today (about 3 miles total).

I also had her in the shop after I bought her, just to have her thoroughly looked at. Needed new brake lines and upper control arms. No question here, just thought I'd mention it. My mechanic is an Audi/VW specialist, and a family friend of a friend of mine (the previously mentioned owner of the S4, his dad has been best buds with my mechanic for 30+ years. They actually sent me to him when I bought the car).

Anyway, thought I'd say hi since I'm new to Audi's. And new to the forums! Thanks in advance for any help, tips, etc. This site has already proven to be extremely helpful.

Cheers!

-Bob

Almost forgot pictures!

4Driver4

Make sure the combi valve is clean. Lubricate the o-ring with oil.

When you say hazard relay, do you mean the hazard light switch in the center console? That is usually the issue.

BeOhBe

Will try cleaning it and lubing the o-ring, thanks!

And yes, I was indeed referring to the hazard switch in the center console. I ordered the new one from ECS, part #4B0 941 509 K B98.
When I put the new one in, the random turn-signal sounding clicking became a steady buzzing sound, immediately when I turn the ignition key. So I took the new one out and put the old one back in for now. At that point, I sprayed some contact cleaner at the base of the turn signal stalk, just to see if it would help at all, and it seemed like it did. Still clicking, but now it's two or three clicks instead of bursts of six-ish clicks. It happens randomly while driving, although if I barely push the turn signal stalk up or down, I can force it to happen.

Is it possible I have the wrong hazard switch? The one that was in there is made by Vemo, and is a 10 pin connection. That's not OEM, is it? And since it's a Vemo, I'm guessing that it's been replaced before? The one I ordered and received from ECS is OEM and also a 10 pin connection, but I thought the ones that originally came in this car were a 9 pin connection.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

(quote)
I also had her in the shop after I bought her, just to have her thoroughly looked at. Needed new brake lines and upper control arms. No question here, just thought I'd mention it. My mechanic is an Audi/VW specialist, and a family friend of a friend of mine (the previously mentioned owner of the S4, his dad has been best buds with my mechanic for 30+ years. They actually sent me to him when I bought the car).

Anyway, thought I'd say hi since I'm new to Audi's. And new to the forums! Thanks in advance for any help, tips, etc. This site has already proven to be extremely helpful.

Cheers!

-Bob(quote)

Probably didn't need new brake lines….that seems to be a go-straight-to-profit item for dealers/shops these days. Just because the outer covering is cracked doesn't mean it needs to be replaced although arguably many people say should. And if you DO replace them, replace them either with braided stainless steel or braided kevlar (blue or black) lines with the appropriate clamps holding the lines to the body or caliper mount. The braided stainless will saw through metal clamps or plastic cable ties.

BeOhBe

Yeah, you're probably right about not absolutely needing them, but he mentioned they were all cracking, so I had him put some ss lines on. It was $250-ish installed, and they feel better now regardless, so I'm happy.

4Driver4

Totally disagree with this. The rubber lines to the front calipers crack right at the fitting. If this is the case, they should be replaced. They are about $10 each. Do not buy anything fancy. Just use good quality rubber lines that are designed for everyday road use and weather.

BeOhBe

Do you think it was a mistake on my part to have the stainless steel lines put on? I had him quote me prices on both rubber and ss, and the difference was only about $50, so I just went with the ss lines. He seemed to think it was a bit overkill, but did it anyway.

As for my hose issue, I cleaned up the combi valve at the connection, and was able to get the hose to seat on properly. Finally. I didn't put the silver snap-on cover back on though. Didn't want to mess with the hose once I got it on there. How important are those sleeves, anyway?

And my friend came over with his Ross Tech yesterday. Turned off the horn when arming the alarm, ran a full scan, and cleared the codes to turn off the CEL related to my SAI (had a fault code for both banks at this point). Cold started it this morning for the first time since we did that, SAI kicked on, and no CEL.
(I had my mechanic ignore the SAI fault codes when he had it last week, as I already had the new hose on order.)

Also, I'm looking at Bentley manuals this morning. Should I get the book or dvd version? Is one better than the other (more comprehensive, easier to use)?

4Driver4

Yup. Rubber is plenty for road use. Plus it stands up better to water and sand.

georgeb944

The DVD version weighs less, and you can print out wiring diagrams, etc. and mark them up, and, after you no longer need them, you can throw them away.

The primary negative about the dvd manuals is that, should you have a hard drive crash, you may end up losing one of your licenses, unless you have the foresight to remove the license before the crash.

BeOhBe

Meh, what's done is done. I'll be sure to check em every so often, thanks for the heads up.

I'm looking at this Bentley manual:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-A6-S6-1998-99-2000-01-02-03-04-2005-DVD-Service-Repair-Manual-Bentley-AC55-/271228907595?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2680b04b&vxp=mtr
Look good? Was originally looking at books, but this is about the same price. Free shipping, too.