How to Diagonose No Crank/No Start? 2.7T 6MT
#1
How to Diagonose No Crank/No Start? 2.7T 6MT
I'm trying to get to the bottom of a no crank/no start problem with my 2002 A6 2.7T 6 Speed. Car was running fine, starting fine, etc. until it wouldn't start in a local parking lot two days ago. The battery is fine as it reads just over 12v with the ignition on and slightly more when I attempted to jump start it from my wife's vehicle. All interior lights and gauges work.
At first, I thought it was the clutch switch at the top of the pedal that allows the car to start when it's depressed because the message on the screen says 'Push Clutch to Start' after I unsuccessfully try to start it. However, I think that may be a stock message when the car doesn't start after turning the key in the ignition. So far I have bypassed the clutch switch with no luck. Also bypassed the starter interlock relay with a 10AWG jumper wire. No luck there either....
Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed? I am going to try to find some people to help me get it push started today so I don't have to tow it.
At first, I thought it was the clutch switch at the top of the pedal that allows the car to start when it's depressed because the message on the screen says 'Push Clutch to Start' after I unsuccessfully try to start it. However, I think that may be a stock message when the car doesn't start after turning the key in the ignition. So far I have bypassed the clutch switch with no luck. Also bypassed the starter interlock relay with a 10AWG jumper wire. No luck there either....
Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed? I am going to try to find some people to help me get it push started today so I don't have to tow it.
#3
Battery and alternator seem to be fine. Got it push started with the help of the local Mexican restaurant dudes. It runs great... When I got it started. Starter seems to be the most difficult place to start. I was hoping to have the front end off the car again this winter for timing belt, W/P, seals, etc... Not quite ready for that, especially with the current project I've got in the garage. I'll have to pull the battery or get some more people to push start the car to have it tested. The A6 is a pig compared to my last car.
#5
Ignition comes on, lights turn on dash, relay clicks either inside the cabin or in the engine bay (hard to tell), 'Push Clutch to Start' message comes up on display and doesn't go away, lights that stay on the dash are ESP, check engine, battery, etc (the normal ones that are on before the start up), then nothing... All lights and message stay on as long as I have the ignition switched on. Relay doesn't click again unless I turn the key off and back on.
#6
If there is no change in any of the lights on the dash and no noise when you move the key from run to start, I would bet it is the switch.
Usually if it is the starter, then some of the lights that are on when in "run" with the engine not started go out when the key is turned to "Start"
(Not Audi specific advice, but general advice)
Usually if it is the starter, then some of the lights that are on when in "run" with the engine not started go out when the key is turned to "Start"
(Not Audi specific advice, but general advice)
#7
If there is no change in any of the lights on the dash and no noise when you move the key from run to start, I would bet it is the switch.
Usually if it is the starter, then some of the lights that are on when in "run" with the engine not started go out when the key is turned to "Start"
(Not Audi specific advice, but general advice)
Usually if it is the starter, then some of the lights that are on when in "run" with the engine not started go out when the key is turned to "Start"
(Not Audi specific advice, but general advice)
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#8
Man, this sucks. Honestly, getting to the starter isn't at all as hard I don't think as the timing belt. I've done an alternator and you just need to slide the carrier forward a few inches to get the clearance you need from under the car. For me, I can get it into service position in about 30-45 minutes and I'm pretty slow usually. Maybe an hour tops. Once there, it should be a matter of pulling the belt, pull the alternator and there you are.
I would check the starter for signal, and/or pull it and bring it to autozone or advance to have them check it on the machine.
As you know, the next culprit is the ignition switch....
This thread here has it being the switch:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-...nking-2858154/
I would check the starter for signal, and/or pull it and bring it to autozone or advance to have them check it on the machine.
As you know, the next culprit is the ignition switch....
This thread here has it being the switch:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-...nking-2858154/
#9
AudiWorld Super User
Check for 12v at ignition wire to solenoid. With ignition on ( the small wire )
If present check braided wire from solenoid to starter. ( usually burns up on Bosch starters, had 2 done so far.)
If starter motor removal is necessary, disconnect inboard cvjoint and remove heat shield. Remove starter through passenger wheel well
I have found getting the alternator out is a real pita, just fighting with the damn electrical connectors is enough for me to say forget it .
If the headlights work, dont dim during starting ,all other electrics work and you dont even hear a click , i doubt its the battery
If present check braided wire from solenoid to starter. ( usually burns up on Bosch starters, had 2 done so far.)
If starter motor removal is necessary, disconnect inboard cvjoint and remove heat shield. Remove starter through passenger wheel well
I have found getting the alternator out is a real pita, just fighting with the damn electrical connectors is enough for me to say forget it .
If the headlights work, dont dim during starting ,all other electrics work and you dont even hear a click , i doubt its the battery
Last edited by Airbag; 09-26-2014 at 07:33 AM.
#10
I am still not convinced the battery is good...voltage doesn't say much about a car battery. I would start with swapping batteries with your wife's car. If a battery is dead, you can't even jump start it normally...Or at least take the battery off and test it at autozone. They do it for free.
I've had batteries show 12.6V not starting the car, and the charger showed fully charged after overnight charging. Crank is what matters, not voltage...
I've had batteries show 12.6V not starting the car, and the charger showed fully charged after overnight charging. Crank is what matters, not voltage...