How to Diagonose No Crank/No Start? 2.7T 6MT
09-28-2014, 04:19 AM
#23
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09-28-2014, 08:22 AM
#24
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Check for 12v at ignition wire to solenoid. With ignition on ( the small wire )
If present check braided wire from solenoid to starter. ( usually burns up on Bosch starters, had 2 done so far.)
If starter motor removal is necessary, disconnect inboard cvjoint and remove heat shield. Remove starter through passenger wheel well
I have found getting the alternator out is a real pita, just fighting with the damn electrical connectors is enough for me to say forget it .
If the headlights work, dont dim during starting ,all other electrics work and you dont even hear a click , i doubt its the battery
If present check braided wire from solenoid to starter. ( usually burns up on Bosch starters, had 2 done so far.)
If starter motor removal is necessary, disconnect inboard cvjoint and remove heat shield. Remove starter through passenger wheel well
I have found getting the alternator out is a real pita, just fighting with the damn electrical connectors is enough for me to say forget it .
If the headlights work, dont dim during starting ,all other electrics work and you dont even hear a click , i doubt its the battery
Edit: Just saw that there is another, even small wire that has a plug on it. Having a hard time getting it off currently, I think it's a push to unlock plug but so far it's tough to get in the right position.
Last edited by Gsrob; 09-28-2014 at 08:53 AM.
09-28-2014, 09:12 AM
#25
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Alright, got that sorted. I got the plug off and tested it. No voltage prior to turning the key then just over 12v when the key is on. So the starter is definitely getting juice. I'm taking it that this means I need a new starter? Also, Airbag, have you dropped the starter through the fender well as you stated in the previous post?
09-28-2014, 09:13 AM
#26
The heavy wire is to the battery and should have 12V all the time.
The thinner wire is from the key switch (through any starter control circuitry that the car has) and should have 12V when trying to start.
The thinner wire is from the key switch (through any starter control circuitry that the car has) and should have 12V when trying to start.
09-28-2014, 09:50 AM
#28
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Lastly, I checked the other braided cable that goes from the solenoid to the starter motor. The best I could do is check it at the nut that it connects to but it gets power upon trying to turn the key as well, just under 12v. Is there any other way to tell if that short braided cable is bad or fried? I sprayed some brake cleaner up there and it looks fine to the eye. Guess I'm going to find a starter...
09-28-2014, 01:18 PM
#29
If the braded cable is un-insulated, it is aground strap, and should not have 12V but should be at ground.
The starter usually has one large cable from the battery, but on some model cars also has the mail power going to the rest of the car taken from that connection. (Usually a bolted connection)
The ground USUALLY comes from being mounted to the engine and transmission, that have a ground strap to the body or back to the negative of the batter (or both)
The starter usually has one large cable from the battery, but on some model cars also has the mail power going to the rest of the car taken from that connection. (Usually a bolted connection)
The ground USUALLY comes from being mounted to the engine and transmission, that have a ground strap to the body or back to the negative of the batter (or both)
09-28-2014, 01:31 PM
#30
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Ignore the text... I found this on a thread from a whle back.
The braided wire in question is the copper looking one near the top right that goes from the solenoid to the starter motor itself. It's definitely some type of power wire.