07-13-2016, 10:23 AM
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How many miles can an Audi engine last?
09-12-2016, 08:11 AM
#61
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I put a rebuilt trans (from Audi) in at $107K and I babied the thing from 64K on when I bought mine used in 2008; trans fluid and filter changed before I brought it home. The engine is pretty strong and reliable and you can do most of the maintenance on your own. Unless you've changed a timing belt on an interference engine before, this is probably not the first one to start on although depending on what you pay for the car you might blanch at $2K TB service (includes tensioners, water pump, idlers, serpentine belt and tensioner, etc.). The engine is strong enough to do 155+ (speed limiter but that can be removed through ECU reprogram or reflash...I don't recommend it) and it's very nice. The intake manifold flaps and the controller/vacuum motors are an issue; they WILL carbon/sludge up and freeze. A new intake manifold complete with vacuum motors is about $1600 these days. I've put on at least one although it was covered under the extended warranty I bought from Audi.
The catalytic converter(s) were covered by Audi for 10yrs/100K miles on a free extended warranty by Audi (apparently there were issues and they settled with EPA); in my case the cats were fine (I still have the OEM 02 sensors at 145K+) but the flex pipes rotted/failed.
At 120K mi you're looking at shock replacement (although I have 145+ on my 02S6) perhaps. Good that it has new rotors and pads, that's around 3-400 if you do it yourself; a lot depends on what pads are used. Some people put extremely low dust pads on and sacrifice stopping/fade power. You don't need gonzo race pads (bad on street anyway, need to warm up) or Hawk HP+ (great pad, relatively easy on rotors, but as dirty or worse than OEM), Hawk HP are sufficient and they're slightly less dusty than OEM.
140K you should consider replacing the voltage regulator (worn brushes) or be prepared to do so sooner or later. The battery is tough to replace; heavy as hell and right up near the windshield, 95AH OEM but you could probably fit a 75AH in there...the clamp adjusts for shorted batteries.
These things are freakin' expensive to repair...a minor fender bender cost my insurance company almost $12K and I was out the car for almost 4 months, including the time it was at the dealer post-collision shop for additional repair ($2K included in the 12K above).
I wouldn't pay more than $8-10K for one with 120K on it. Mainly because of the transmission issue.
The catalytic converter(s) were covered by Audi for 10yrs/100K miles on a free extended warranty by Audi (apparently there were issues and they settled with EPA); in my case the cats were fine (I still have the OEM 02 sensors at 145K+) but the flex pipes rotted/failed.
At 120K mi you're looking at shock replacement (although I have 145+ on my 02S6) perhaps. Good that it has new rotors and pads, that's around 3-400 if you do it yourself; a lot depends on what pads are used. Some people put extremely low dust pads on and sacrifice stopping/fade power. You don't need gonzo race pads (bad on street anyway, need to warm up) or Hawk HP+ (great pad, relatively easy on rotors, but as dirty or worse than OEM), Hawk HP are sufficient and they're slightly less dusty than OEM.
140K you should consider replacing the voltage regulator (worn brushes) or be prepared to do so sooner or later. The battery is tough to replace; heavy as hell and right up near the windshield, 95AH OEM but you could probably fit a 75AH in there...the clamp adjusts for shorted batteries.
These things are freakin' expensive to repair...a minor fender bender cost my insurance company almost $12K and I was out the car for almost 4 months, including the time it was at the dealer post-collision shop for additional repair ($2K included in the 12K above).
I wouldn't pay more than $8-10K for one with 120K on it. Mainly because of the transmission issue.
Regarding the transmision, how much did you pay for it?
I will be a better buyer after your posts
Saludos desde Espaņa
09-12-2016, 09:04 AM
#62
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Too much according to some people.
It was $6K. But it was an Audi guaranteed transmission..essentially one year unlimited miles. Big deal, I think I put 12K miles on it. It was also not the first one the tech installed...he didn't like the first one and returned it and put in a second one.
02-28-2017, 11:57 AM
#63
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04 2.7t 207K miles driver turbo blown
So the day has come.... 2weeks ago started the car and tons of smoke poured out back.... lost 1 qt oil, into intercoolers and exhaust within 30 minutes of idling. Driver side turbo leaking. Driver Diverter valve all oiled up. PCV was clean 10K miles ago when top end valve cover gasket and cam seals were replaced
4K to drop subframe engine and replace turbo, 1200 to replace control arms.
My egt's are throwing codes..have been for a few weeks pre turbo blowing...
The tranny was rebuilt...blown 3rd gear synchro and bad tob ... at 171k.. new clutch obviously put in then so trannny is set.
prior to this would lose 1 qt oil every 2-3k miles.
Compression 155, 190, 190, 160 175,165 (cylinder 2 and 3 are at 190; maybe oil from intake in cylinder as cause of inc compression?) all done engine cold....leakdown less than 20% x6.
so question is do I drop 7k into car....turbo, alternator, timing belt(not due till 225K) control arms EGT sensors ?o2 sensors ..What else should I consider update while engine/subframe is pulled? vacuum lines? other sensors
is the cat convertor toast now that oil has been idling through?
or do I walk away?
Interested in some thoughts as to whether I could get another 50-70K from this engine\car.
It has been a daily driver but now my thought is a winter DD. I just purchased a 6MT M2 this past summer.
4K to drop subframe engine and replace turbo, 1200 to replace control arms.
My egt's are throwing codes..have been for a few weeks pre turbo blowing...
The tranny was rebuilt...blown 3rd gear synchro and bad tob ... at 171k.. new clutch obviously put in then so trannny is set.
prior to this would lose 1 qt oil every 2-3k miles.
Compression 155, 190, 190, 160 175,165 (cylinder 2 and 3 are at 190; maybe oil from intake in cylinder as cause of inc compression?) all done engine cold....leakdown less than 20% x6.
so question is do I drop 7k into car....turbo, alternator, timing belt(not due till 225K) control arms EGT sensors ?o2 sensors ..What else should I consider update while engine/subframe is pulled? vacuum lines? other sensors
is the cat convertor toast now that oil has been idling through?
or do I walk away?
Interested in some thoughts as to whether I could get another 50-70K from this engine\car.
It has been a daily driver but now my thought is a winter DD. I just purchased a 6MT M2 this past summer.
02-08-2018, 02:01 PM
#64
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2010 S4
I sold my 2010 S4 with 187.000 miles on it in the year 2016 and it still ran like a bear. Only was in the shop for a door lock actuator, and a few small things. The key change the oil every 5,000 miles which I did.
02-11-2018, 04:33 AM
#65
145,000 on mine currently. Had to pull engine for Oil leak at the rear seal flange (not the actual seal, but the joint between the flange mount and the engine block).
We found that the cylinder walls were pristine and the valves, etc were like NEW! Amazing.
Now the electronic gremlins are killing the car......
Mike
We found that the cylinder walls were pristine and the valves, etc were like NEW! Amazing.
Now the electronic gremlins are killing the car......
Mike
04-02-2018, 09:31 AM
#66
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Maybe I've been lucky but I have an '02 3.0 Avant, I bought it at 114K miles in 2012, did the timing belt immediately. It's now at 194K miles and aside from valve cover gaskets leaking and coil pack replacement every two years it's doing great.
During the time I've had it I have had to replace the fuel pump, radiator (I bashed it), brake rotors, temp sensor, coil packs (every 2-3 years depending on coil pack brand). I've changed the oil every 6 months, flushed the brake fluids every two years, changed the transmission fluid and filter once since I've had it.
I'm debating whether to get the timing belt replaced again, since it's got 80K on it and the gaskets seem to be getting leaky around the valve covers again. Overall the car is very clean, though at 16 years old it's also looking a bit dated. I'll probably get the timing belt and gaskets done again because for the $2K I would spend on the project, I would be hard pressed to find another wagon that is as useful as this car, and as comfortable to drive. Even if it is a 3.slow engine.
During the time I've had it I have had to replace the fuel pump, radiator (I bashed it), brake rotors, temp sensor, coil packs (every 2-3 years depending on coil pack brand). I've changed the oil every 6 months, flushed the brake fluids every two years, changed the transmission fluid and filter once since I've had it.
I'm debating whether to get the timing belt replaced again, since it's got 80K on it and the gaskets seem to be getting leaky around the valve covers again. Overall the car is very clean, though at 16 years old it's also looking a bit dated. I'll probably get the timing belt and gaskets done again because for the $2K I would spend on the project, I would be hard pressed to find another wagon that is as useful as this car, and as comfortable to drive. Even if it is a 3.slow engine.
04-09-2018, 04:04 AM
#67
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Maybe I've been lucky but I have an '02 3.0 Avant, I bought it at 114K miles in 2012, did the timing belt immediately. It's now at 194K miles and aside from valve cover gaskets leaking and coil pack replacement every two years it's doing great.
During the time I've had it I have had to replace the fuel pump, radiator (I bashed it), brake rotors, temp sensor, coil packs (every 2-3 years depending on coil pack brand). I've changed the oil every 6 months, flushed the brake fluids every two years, changed the transmission fluid and filter once since I've had it.
I'm debating whether to get the timing belt replaced again, since it's got 80K on it and the gaskets seem to be getting leaky around the valve covers again. Overall the car is very clean, though at 16 years old it's also looking a bit dated. I'll probably get the timing belt and gaskets done again because for the $2K I would spend on the project, I would be hard pressed to find another wagon that is as useful as this car, and as comfortable to drive. Even if it is a 3.slow engine.
During the time I've had it I have had to replace the fuel pump, radiator (I bashed it), brake rotors, temp sensor, coil packs (every 2-3 years depending on coil pack brand). I've changed the oil every 6 months, flushed the brake fluids every two years, changed the transmission fluid and filter once since I've had it.
I'm debating whether to get the timing belt replaced again, since it's got 80K on it and the gaskets seem to be getting leaky around the valve covers again. Overall the car is very clean, though at 16 years old it's also looking a bit dated. I'll probably get the timing belt and gaskets done again because for the $2K I would spend on the project, I would be hard pressed to find another wagon that is as useful as this car, and as comfortable to drive. Even if it is a 3.slow engine.
I sunk a bit more for my04 2.7T close to 6K ...i did shocks, suspension, new turbos, brakes all around with new rear calipers, timing belt, alternator at 207K miles. Car should be good for another 75K miles until next belt change. Very happy i did do it. I have a 6MT and it makes for a great winter DD.
04-09-2018, 04:04 AM
#68
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145,000 on mine currently. Had to pull engine for Oil leak at the rear seal flange (not the actual seal, but the joint between the flange mount and the engine block).
We found that the cylinder walls were pristine and the valves, etc were like NEW! Amazing.
Now the electronic gremlins are killing the car......
Mike
We found that the cylinder walls were pristine and the valves, etc were like NEW! Amazing.
Now the electronic gremlins are killing the car......
Mike
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