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This weekend I'm going to replace my inner tie rod ends. I dont have any symptoms, but its the only thing on the front end thats not new. Are there any issues I may encounter on this replacement? I like asking here first, It usually saves me down time in the long run. I understand it to be disconnect outer end, push boot back, Crows foot the inner nut, reinstall is the reverse. Thanks for any input. Oh, the vehicle had the original outers and i just rolled 200,000 miles.

Gsrob

You can't just push the boot back. First, remove the squarish plastic cover that limits your access to the power steering rack. That cover attaches to the frame of the car and surrounds the steering rack. It also makes it impossible to get to the boot clamp itself further back on the steering rack. That will allow you to put a worm style clamp on there when you finish up as the old crimp clamp will most likely get messed up. Then the boot comes off with a significant amount of force and twisting. I ordered new ones thinking that they were going to be torn but was pleasantly surprised that they weren't and ended up reusing the OEM set (car had 150k at the time). Once the boot is off you can put an inner tie rod removal tool on a breaker bar or large ratchet and break it loose. The light truck/SUV kit from Advance Auto Parts is what fit my c5 a6. Lastly, when you go to tighten the new on in there, realize that it will be very difficult to remove down the line for any reason if it isn't an OEM inner tie rod. For some reason the other brands have less pronounced corners, making it harder for the tool to grab.

I hope that helps...

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That sounds great, thanks for the info.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

I would replace inner and outer tie rod ends at the same time, especially if the car has the original outer tie rod ends. Get the assembly and adjust it to as close to the existing assembly length before you get the front end aligned.

A complete aftermarket tie rod is about $55 at ecstuning but an aftermarket outer TRE is about $44 so you might as well replace both inner and outer as an assembly. The OEM outer and inner are going to run over $200!!

Incredibly, an S4 complete tiered costs $20 at FCP Euro, a PAIR of them for my 02S6 is $31!!! With a lifetime warranty IIRC.
"If you have a product that needs a warranty replacement, simply contact us and purchase the replacement part. Well ship the new part to you, and when you ship the warranty part back we’ll give you a refund or customer credit after 90 days."
Check it out.

I have no financial or other interest in FCP Euro.

Interestingly, my ebahn Bentley for my 02S6 just shows removal/installation of the inner and øuter tie rod ends as an assembly although I KNOW I've replaced just the outer tie rod ends. The S6 uses a solid outer TRE while our 2K4.2A6 used a rubber-bushed/isolated TRE. When we did the outer TREs on the 2K4.2A6 we used the S6 outer TRE.

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I would normally replace the entire component (inner and outer) at the same time. I replaced the outers when I did the control arms and sway link. I had no idea there was an inner. I assumed the rod just went straight into the rack. Now, everytime I think I hear something, I blame the inners, even when it turns out the be my tire gauge in the door pocket.

Gsrob

I support Sloop's recommendation on the FCP tie rods. I got the upgraded solid TRs and am very happy with them. They were cheap and have a lifetime warranty. I've put 20k on them so far with no noise or complaints.