Issue with 2002 A6 2.7t - Stalling at start today, almost didn't get home
01-20-2015, 06:36 PM
#11
That's totally what I'm wondering. I honestly have no idea WHEN that was last changed... This isn't going to be fun changing with 3/4 of a tank, is it? Also, thinking about replacing the fuel pump too... Anyone know of the quality of the one ECS sells (not the Audi OEM and not the high performance aftermark ones)?
Come to think of it, my MPG the last two tanks has been rather bad (14 to 15 when it used to be 18+ city), honestly can't recall if I've been sitting in the car for awhile with it running and listening to the radio after grabbing something to eat though or what not...
Come to think of it, my MPG the last two tanks has been rather bad (14 to 15 when it used to be 18+ city), honestly can't recall if I've been sitting in the car for awhile with it running and listening to the radio after grabbing something to eat though or what not...
You mentioned that a hose or something you checked; could it be possible that's when your trouble started? Also, just check coolant temp sensor -not saying it is the culprit but I had starting/issues with that on my previous 2.7t.
Also general check like blockage, loose vacuum lines, MAF sensor connectors, spark plugs etc. may help.
Really need to scan for codes -VAG-COM preferred. CEL may not be lit but shooting in dark here.
Last edited by tester123; 01-20-2015 at 06:38 PM.
01-22-2015, 04:59 AM
#12
AudiWorld Super User
Triple digits in posts and still don't have a VAGCOM? Not even the $10 cheap chinese cable from ebay (with the VCDS Lite SW? Time to man up and spend the money to figure out what is going on on your own.
01-22-2015, 07:26 AM
#13
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Agreed. If you don't want to do the dealer (or vice versa) buy VCDS.
01-22-2015, 03:17 PM
#14
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Speed sensor?
Check your speed sensor that mounts near where the left axle attaches to the trans. If its similar to the 2.8, when mine failed, I had the same symptoms. Its a pretty affordable repair as well. Also, if the seal fails on the component, they can give off intermittent signals.
01-22-2015, 03:43 PM
#15
AudiWorld Super User
Check your speed sensor that mounts near where the left axle attaches to the trans. If its similar to the 2.8, when mine failed, I had the same symptoms. Its a pretty affordable repair as well. Also, if the seal fails on the component, they can give off intermittent signals.
01-22-2015, 06:10 PM
#16
I would test the fuel pump. Pull the back seat, unscrew the cover, and then pull the plug supplying voltage to the pump. Have someone turn the car to ON and see if the voltage goes to 12-14V (it should approximate the battery). If the voltage does not jump, you have an issue with the fuse or wiring. IF voltage is good, plug in the pump and see if it spins up when the person turns the car to ON again. Careful - 3/4 of a tank will cause some spillage but you should be OK ....wear some gloves.
You could also pull the fuel rail and see if it's spraying while you crank the car...but this definitely will cause spillage
A vacuum leak is possible, but I am thinking this is the pump. I had one go bad in my car, it would stall or not start. It never left me stranded anywhere. I pulled the pump out and it wound up spraying fuel all over and I thought "Whoa, it's good", put it back - still had the problems. After a while I tested the pump again and it was dead. The spray I got was just a fluke and it wasn't nearly the flow that it should have been.
I would think that, if it was a vacuum leak, the throttle would inject more gas (and more air) but the ration would improve, since the leak will be the same size - and it would run better, not stall faster.
You could also pull the fuel rail and see if it's spraying while you crank the car...but this definitely will cause spillage
A vacuum leak is possible, but I am thinking this is the pump. I had one go bad in my car, it would stall or not start. It never left me stranded anywhere. I pulled the pump out and it wound up spraying fuel all over and I thought "Whoa, it's good", put it back - still had the problems. After a while I tested the pump again and it was dead. The spray I got was just a fluke and it wasn't nearly the flow that it should have been.
I would think that, if it was a vacuum leak, the throttle would inject more gas (and more air) but the ration would improve, since the leak will be the same size - and it would run better, not stall faster.
01-23-2015, 07:46 AM
#17
I would test the fuel pump. Pull the back seat, unscrew the cover, and then pull the plug supplying voltage to the pump. Have someone turn the car to ON and see if the voltage goes to 12-14V (it should approximate the battery). If the voltage does not jump, you have an issue with the fuse or wiring. IF voltage is good, plug in the pump and see if it spins up when the person turns the car to ON again. Careful - 3/4 of a tank will cause some spillage but you should be OK ....wear some gloves.
You could also pull the fuel rail and see if it's spraying while you crank the car...but this definitely will cause spillage
A vacuum leak is possible, but I am thinking this is the pump. I had one go bad in my car, it would stall or not start. It never left me stranded anywhere. I pulled the pump out and it wound up spraying fuel all over and I thought "Whoa, it's good", put it back - still had the problems. After a while I tested the pump again and it was dead. The spray I got was just a fluke and it wasn't nearly the flow that it should have been.
I would think that, if it was a vacuum leak, the throttle would inject more gas (and more air) but the ration would improve, since the leak will be the same size - and it would run better, not stall faster.
You could also pull the fuel rail and see if it's spraying while you crank the car...but this definitely will cause spillage
A vacuum leak is possible, but I am thinking this is the pump. I had one go bad in my car, it would stall or not start. It never left me stranded anywhere. I pulled the pump out and it wound up spraying fuel all over and I thought "Whoa, it's good", put it back - still had the problems. After a while I tested the pump again and it was dead. The spray I got was just a fluke and it wasn't nearly the flow that it should have been.
I would think that, if it was a vacuum leak, the throttle would inject more gas (and more air) but the ration would improve, since the leak will be the same size - and it would run better, not stall faster.
Anyway, got flat-bedded to the dealer, and had them put it in. Back to current problem. Have we ruled out CTS?
01-23-2015, 12:12 PM
#18
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I had intermittent pump outages before mine failed. Scanned it and nada. Actually failed on the way to the dealer to pick up a new pump. Not ambitious enough to put in one of those Walbro inserts. Did it once on a Saab, and once is enough. Had trouble getting the gas odor off on my hands. Like an idiot, I didn't put on gloves until it was too late.
Anyway, got flat-bedded to the dealer, and had them put it in. Back to current problem. Have we ruled out CTS?
Anyway, got flat-bedded to the dealer, and had them put it in. Back to current problem. Have we ruled out CTS?
01-23-2015, 01:43 PM
#20
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