The Potential Death of My First Love, The 2.7 T
11-13-2015, 05:54 PM
#12
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Get some plastic ramps and drive the font end up on the ramps. From what I remember, you might not even have to remove the plastic belly pan(or maybe just the transmission plastic cover, if your car has one since those are rare). If it's a hole(or holes) in the flex pipe it's gotta be huge and all the sound will come from there.
Or just go to a muffler shop and they'll check/change the flex pipe for you pretty cheap. Supposedly good welders don't even remove the downpipe off the car. I did it both ways: on the car and on the bench. Welding overhead is a big PITA if you don't have welding experience(especially on jack stands where even the welding helmet is too big for the space, don't ask me how I know).
Anyway, for about $100 they'll weld it for you. It's about $10-$20 for the actual flex pipe. I love welding, so I did both flex pipes myself. It's a lot of work and probably should have payed the $100, but I wanted to use the opportunity to practice what I've learned
After I cut off the old flex pipes I started the car and it sounded very similar to yours(like a tractor )
Or just go to a muffler shop and they'll check/change the flex pipe for you pretty cheap. Supposedly good welders don't even remove the downpipe off the car. I did it both ways: on the car and on the bench. Welding overhead is a big PITA if you don't have welding experience(especially on jack stands where even the welding helmet is too big for the space, don't ask me how I know).
Anyway, for about $100 they'll weld it for you. It's about $10-$20 for the actual flex pipe. I love welding, so I did both flex pipes myself. It's a lot of work and probably should have payed the $100, but I wanted to use the opportunity to practice what I've learned
After I cut off the old flex pipes I started the car and it sounded very similar to yours(like a tractor )
Last edited by indoor; 11-13-2015 at 05:56 PM.
11-13-2015, 08:57 PM
#13
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This is all really, REALLY making me hopeful. I'll be going into a muffler shop tomorrow to see what the deal is. Additionally, I'll do myself the justice of checking it out myself beforehand.
My car never had the belly pan to begin with when I bought it 2 years ago, so it shouldn't be any issue checking it out. If it is just the flex pipe, I will be extremely elated. I was assuming this noise meant it was all over. Thanks for the suggestions, I will definitely report back!
My car never had the belly pan to begin with when I bought it 2 years ago, so it shouldn't be any issue checking it out. If it is just the flex pipe, I will be extremely elated. I was assuming this noise meant it was all over. Thanks for the suggestions, I will definitely report back!
11-15-2015, 04:29 PM
#14
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Well, this is beginning to worry me. I returned to the car with the intent to take it to an exhaust shop 5 days after the vehicle had been sitting. The engine started with no issues and of course, that dreaded noise was there.
Out of frustration, and sheer curiosity, I revved my cold motor to about 3 1/2 - 4 1/2K revs. Of course you aren't supposed to do this, but I wanted to see if the noise was still coinciding with the revs of the motor. The noise completely went away!?! After relaying this information to a local indie shop, a trusted mechanic informed me that this all sounded like valvetrain issues. Perhaps a stuck lifter?
The mechanic was kind enough to view the video's I had posted here and indeed stated the same as you members here (exhaust), however, with it going away it could be something more serious apparently? The car drives fine, no stumbles or anything. I did notice that I now have a CEL light and that will be addressed soon. The issue is, I was ready to either dump some money into building this motor or get something newer and updated. I was told to have the timing checked, perhaps a compression test, and also to have the timing checked (timing belt was done about 7-8k ago). I feel that if it were the timing, it would be considerably worse, right?
So I find myself in a pickle. I have suspicion of something faulty with the oil delivery. One, because of this recent issue, but also due to the fact that any time I am taking a turn at high speed, the car will bog almost as if the brakes are being applied for the slightest second. This phenomenon has been recreated very, very occasionally from a WOT pull from a stop. After letting off the throttle, the car continues to accelerate just fine.
So, do I put the money into having a pressure test done, lifters checked/replaced, somehow have the oil pressure checked (possibly an in car diagnostic while on a drive)? I am really unsure as far as putting money into a motor that may crap out on me. Again, I have loved for and cared for this car to no end. I just don't know when enough is enough and also, that weird jerking that I have experienced before that throws no fault codes and seemingly disappears after letting off the throttle. I'm seeking some direction folks. LOL. Thanks for the help!
Out of frustration, and sheer curiosity, I revved my cold motor to about 3 1/2 - 4 1/2K revs. Of course you aren't supposed to do this, but I wanted to see if the noise was still coinciding with the revs of the motor. The noise completely went away!?! After relaying this information to a local indie shop, a trusted mechanic informed me that this all sounded like valvetrain issues. Perhaps a stuck lifter?
The mechanic was kind enough to view the video's I had posted here and indeed stated the same as you members here (exhaust), however, with it going away it could be something more serious apparently? The car drives fine, no stumbles or anything. I did notice that I now have a CEL light and that will be addressed soon. The issue is, I was ready to either dump some money into building this motor or get something newer and updated. I was told to have the timing checked, perhaps a compression test, and also to have the timing checked (timing belt was done about 7-8k ago). I feel that if it were the timing, it would be considerably worse, right?
So I find myself in a pickle. I have suspicion of something faulty with the oil delivery. One, because of this recent issue, but also due to the fact that any time I am taking a turn at high speed, the car will bog almost as if the brakes are being applied for the slightest second. This phenomenon has been recreated very, very occasionally from a WOT pull from a stop. After letting off the throttle, the car continues to accelerate just fine.
So, do I put the money into having a pressure test done, lifters checked/replaced, somehow have the oil pressure checked (possibly an in car diagnostic while on a drive)? I am really unsure as far as putting money into a motor that may crap out on me. Again, I have loved for and cared for this car to no end. I just don't know when enough is enough and also, that weird jerking that I have experienced before that throws no fault codes and seemingly disappears after letting off the throttle. I'm seeking some direction folks. LOL. Thanks for the help!
Last edited by Mammoth22; 11-16-2015 at 01:11 AM.
11-16-2015, 09:35 AM
#16
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If it is the exhaust, cheap to fix. If you don't fix it, the noise might mask other more expensive problems.
If it is the valve train, these things don't fix themselves... Spend a few bucks and have a pro look at it.
11-16-2015, 05:21 PM
#17
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Got the car up on a lift. Nothing to note there besides some soft bushings that will be replaced soon. The noise is gone. Even after my 40 mile round trip to work. CEL will be diagnosed tomorrow at autozone since my cable isn't at my current residence.
As far as this disappearing, you guys don't think that this is possible? If it were a sticky/stuck lifter? The reason I haven't had a pro look at it is the fact that when I tell them what happened, they want to dive into the motor. That's not going to be cheap.
Knowing all of this, I will be taking it to that trusted indie shop mentioned before; however, I don't know what to have them look at. Should I just have them replace the lifters themselves or have them diagnose the possibility of the oil starvation?
I can only speculate from here until it is looked into, I just feel that this is a bit odd to have that noise, and then nothing.
As far as this disappearing, you guys don't think that this is possible? If it were a sticky/stuck lifter? The reason I haven't had a pro look at it is the fact that when I tell them what happened, they want to dive into the motor. That's not going to be cheap.
Knowing all of this, I will be taking it to that trusted indie shop mentioned before; however, I don't know what to have them look at. Should I just have them replace the lifters themselves or have them diagnose the possibility of the oil starvation?
I can only speculate from here until it is looked into, I just feel that this is a bit odd to have that noise, and then nothing.
11-18-2015, 06:44 PM
#19
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my guess is a stuck lifter since the noise went away for a while, has it come back?
after i did my timing belt and was kinda banging around on the cam shaft sproket (long story) my car made the same noise for a while with no performance issues and now the noise is gone.
my conclusion is that there was a stuck or noisey lifter and now its fine. Unless you are pushing 500hp it not a bent rod, the lower end is this car is solid.
when my lifter was stuck my mechanic said its not worth the money to fix it, it wouldnt effect anything and i beat the S out of my car and it has 270k on it.
if i were you i wouldnt bother spending more money getting it looked at even if the noise comes back. run it until it breaks and then youll know whats wrong
i know im going to get flammed for saying that but thats just my opinion.
after i did my timing belt and was kinda banging around on the cam shaft sproket (long story) my car made the same noise for a while with no performance issues and now the noise is gone.
my conclusion is that there was a stuck or noisey lifter and now its fine. Unless you are pushing 500hp it not a bent rod, the lower end is this car is solid.
when my lifter was stuck my mechanic said its not worth the money to fix it, it wouldnt effect anything and i beat the S out of my car and it has 270k on it.
if i were you i wouldnt bother spending more money getting it looked at even if the noise comes back. run it until it breaks and then youll know whats wrong
i know im going to get flammed for saying that but thats just my opinion.
Last edited by redbullgotwings; 11-18-2015 at 06:46 PM.
11-18-2015, 08:34 PM
#20
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Flamed or not, I see any information as good information at this point! The problem truly lies in the uncertainty here. I truly had intentions of dropping some money (again) on this car and if there's a possibility of a serious issue, I'd rather fix that then adding more stressing factors to make this issue arise once more.
The noise is still nonexistent (knocks on wood, rubbing the nonexistent lucky rabbits foot, saying prayers etc.), but it was a terrible when it was there. I'm praying that it was something of the sorts here and it has simply become unstuck or freed. I will be using a thicker oil come time for my next oil change due to the dropping temps here in OH.. Hopefully that helps.
If anyone else has any ideas as to what that could have possibly been, please let me know! Otherwise, I will be seeking the advice of the indie shop. If they clear everything, I'll be installing the ECU & TCU chip's I have and looking into downpipes & Milltek exhaust components.
The noise is still nonexistent (knocks on wood, rubbing the nonexistent lucky rabbits foot, saying prayers etc.), but it was a terrible when it was there. I'm praying that it was something of the sorts here and it has simply become unstuck or freed. I will be using a thicker oil come time for my next oil change due to the dropping temps here in OH.. Hopefully that helps.
If anyone else has any ideas as to what that could have possibly been, please let me know! Otherwise, I will be seeking the advice of the indie shop. If they clear everything, I'll be installing the ECU & TCU chip's I have and looking into downpipes & Milltek exhaust components.