johnkk

Getting the pad build-up vibration and don't have a good route to properly bed brakes or desire to bed them in the middle of the night on the highway!

Current rotors are OP parts at $62 per pair. Vibration started after about 12 mo and now is getting really annoying at 18 mos.

Wondering if best strategy is go just keep replacing elcheapo rotors every year or two or step up to Zimmerman, Brembo, Meyle @ about $150. Or Gen Audi at $200/pr.


I've tried sanding rotors with minor improvement and figure that I might as well put new ones on, once I've pulled the old ones.

uberwgn

I've had good success with Zimmerman and OE parts from Audi.

Jeff-AudiUSAParts

We do our best to be competitive on all our parts. With rotors as you know it's the shipping that can take the savings out of any discount on parts such as rotors. For most all part numbers I found for the a6 I saw a price of 87.05 each for a front rotor. Plus UPS shipping of about 45-55 dollars for two to most places. Depends on the actual weight of the package, and zip code we ship to. We are West coast, and that quote was for shipping to East coast. Any questions please feel free to call us.

jcman

I'll second that on the Zimmerman Coat-Z rotors, so far with 5yrs and 42k they have no rust and the surface is not pitted.

johnkk

That's amazing. Do you have HP2 brakes(4 pads each side)? I'll check the Zimmerman's with shipping included versus pick up options.

jcman

No HP2's, I don't need performance brakes it's just a low mile DD car and it has seen plenty of salty winters here in NEO.

johnkk

tnx, that's what I figured. I have a hunch that the 4 pad HP2's are the ones that generate the uneven pad build up to the rotors. No idea why, but with typical 2 pad calipers on other cars, I have never had a build up problem.

jseklund

A lot of times I take my car to the high school parking lot to bed them in. You can't get up to 60, but you can get to 30-40 and come to a stop evenly.

Sometimes, this shudder is caused by the pads not being installed correctly, or not sliding correctly. If the top or bottom does not slide, the pad skews and then the rotor can "wobble". It starts of very slight, and then as the pad wears, the wobble gets worse and worse. A small amount that is barely noticeable will make a big difference in the outcome. I always sand the carrier a little to make sure the pads slide nicely.

Just Me

Deposits are really not so much an issue of the rotor. (well, caveat - as long as they are reasonably flat to begin with, i suppose awful quality could contribute)

I get deposits even with Zimmerman and OE if i a) use a pad that creates a lot of deposits and is fussy ( e.g.: Hawk HPS, which depends on even deposits to work right) or if i get any pad too hot and eventually it starts leaving a deposit, which then builds on itself.

The real answer is get pads that dont deposit much. e.g.: over-spec and live with the dust.

Or check your calipers. if they are sticky, it can cause the cycle to begin.

Grant

johnkk

Been using low dusting pads since OEM's were replaced 12 yrs ago. I tried a set of Hawk HPS's a few years back and they squealed like a stuck pig when coming to a stop. I've been using PBR's for the last few changes. Calipers slide freely and I have lubed the pins. Use copper anti-seize on the pad/caliper contact points. So you're suggesting Textar or some higher dust OEM equivalent?

Is this because the lower dust pads contribute to the rotor deposits?