bilbo6209

Hey guys, My car has 85K on it and currently needs 3 CV boots, looking at the service history the PO has had CV boots replaced at least 3 or 4 times... this seems kind of excessive in 85K to me... is this normal? should I just keep a CV boot or two on the shelf for the car?

What other bits and pieces (It sounds like the cars tend to go through brakes a bit faster that some of my previous cars, but it is a lot heavier so that is kind of expected) I should keep on the shelf?

SloopJohnB@mac.com

It seems that CVJ boot quality is key…you can get cheaper boots but the OEM boots seem to last longer. Second, a LOT depends on how clean you keep your suspension, what you run through, whether you have extensive oil leaks, etc. OIl and grease deteriorate the boot, trash on the road can nick the boot, salt doesn't do the polymer/rubber boot any good, and heat is the all time enemy rubber/polymer.

On an anecdotal basis, my 2K4.2A6 (RIP) went through only ONE rear CVJ boot in 15 years and 190K+ miles. It did, however, go through what seemed like two CVJ front boots a year for a couple years…I now stock a couple spares! Including spares for the inner spider joint boot. BTW, I can highly recommend replacing the inner joint boot and lubricant on a 10–12 year basis…I had pulled the front axle one time to replace the outer joint boot and noticed mild cracking on the inner joint boot but no apparent leak. So I cut it off and lo and behøld the lubricant was brown mousse but the spider/***** weren't damaged…clean and lube and new boot and I was back on the road.

For my 02S6, it seemed like it went through front boots every six months for awhile..but that stopped about a year ago. Maybe I drive better roads or the switch to OEM boots helped.

Lastly, when you change front boots, etc., take the time to thoroughly clean the old CVJ boot grease that got all over yøur front suspension, brake calipers, etc. Last time I had a blown boot I just pulled the wheel in the driveway and went over everything with kerosene and a parts brush with a pan underneath and then removed the pan (and disposed of the crap/kerosene responsibly) and power washed the rest øf the front gear. All that grease and oil if you leave it on there just gets deposited on the new boot and contributes to its failure.

bilbo6209

Thank you Sloopjohn! Good call on cleaning up the old grease etc.

I will be cleaning up a bit under the car due to an oil leak, transmission leak and center diff leak, so adding 3 CV grease leaks is not a big deal :P

I'm hoping that doing all 3 CVs, and doing fluid in all 3 Diffs will resolve the shaking on hard acceleration, vibration i feel in the steering wheel I get at higher speeds, TC not fully releasing when coming to a stop,and whine I get at 65 to 70 when letting off and then stepping on the gas (I'm hoping all of these are due to low fluid level form one of the leaks in the center diff or trans {fingers crossed})

SloopJohnB@mac.com

I change plugs every 30K miles on 4.2V8. Also make sure the plugs are torqued appropriately. Flat gaskets are usually only good for one time torque. On my V8 it's 21–22 ft–lbs. If you reuse a plug take off the øld gasket and put a new øne øn.

bilbo6209

Cool thanks for that tip!

I have 3 cv boots, transmission filter, transmission pan gasket, center Diff seal, new spark plugs,and new fill and drain plugs for the transmission including required seals.

I plan on doing fluid changes in all 3 diffs, transmission, transmission filter, obviously replace the cv boots and seals listed above, oil change, a few tweaks via Vag-Com, see what I can do with evap error for the n80 Valve,and just give the engine top side a good once over (check intake manifold flaps are moving as they are supposed to etc), check for oil leaks etc...

Bill

SloopJohnB@mac.com

For sure check all the control arms…it's easy to do when the axles are out because the springs aren't loading them. Dang UCA bushings and bj's tend to go first.
The UCA bushings can even be replaced for $20 apiece if you have a hydraulic press or access to øne. Same with other bushings…the ball joints not.

bilbo6209

Thanks for the tip! I will give them a look over too. I know the front uppers have been replaced with adjustable shoot I cant remember the name right now, starts with an S I think Stark, Strom, maybe Stern, shoot I know some people don't like them as much as other brands but for now at least they are on the car and adjustable. I did end up grabbing the ST coil overs off the classifieds on here too (looks like they will be here Friday) so if I can get a hold of a set of spring compressors i will be swapping those on too

If I do swap out the H&R springs and what I think are factory shocks and struts for the ST Coils overs, do I need to do an Alignment after?

holy crap at this rate I could just as well put the winter tires on LOL I wont be done till the snow flys :P

WOW I'm so happy the S4 hasn't sold yet :P

SloopJohnB@mac.com

alignment.

bilbo6209

what about if I change ride height, like when changing from summer to winter tires (to give a bit more ground clearance in winter for ice chunks etc)

sorry for the noob question I've never have coil overs etc before.