Juschiln19

Does anyone know if the immobleizer will lock up if I have the original key within range of it and I use the unprogramed key it starts and goes in gear I haven't actually driven it like this yet... but immobleizer light keeps flashing I'm just worried it is in a pending state and will just lock up at some point and the original key will not unlock the immobleizer. And only dealer can. Anyone know about this???

pr0xZen

Before trying to do any installs, try putting the key that works by the e-brake and go for a short trip - not just start it up. If you do decide to do construct a keyless start like this, technically you don't need to hide an entire key - just an RFID tag for the immobilizer. And you really should fasten it somewhere much closer to the ignition barrel - there are plenty of detatchable panels in the surrounding area.

If you were able to pull a 4-pin SKC from it, you should be able to use that for programming immobilizer tags/keys (and FOBs) with VCDS. (Vag Commander is a totally different program and tool). Remember that when inputting the 4-pin SKC for login, it takes a zero before the 4-digit PIN (5 numbers must be input). So if your 4-pin SKC is 1234, you'll input 01234. If you're reading SKC with e.g. Vag Commander, and you get a 3-digit readout - this means your 4-pin SKC starts with a zero (like 0123). In this case you'll input 00123 at the VCDS login.

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For reference:

7-digit SKC (Immobilizer 3 -> ) is not something you can extract from the ECM. What the 7-digit SKC really is, is part of a sort of checksum/hash of your 4-digit pin - composed of the 7-digit SKC, VIN/IMMO-IDENT, date, workshop and importer code. The software and ECM/Cluster takes all this, calculates your 4-digit pin from it and hands it off to the ECM/Cluster. So basicly, the 7-digit SKC is just one part of a complex combination, to hide the real 4-digit pin code. The real reason for this is so that VAG workshops can't look up your "permanent" 4-digit PIN in a database, nor does factory/VAG tools show the 4-digit pin it calculates, on display. Combined with the fact that the code is only valid for a set day (date), this makes it much less likely to be abused by an unfaithful employee, database hackers etc.

Now, with Vag-Tacho/Vag commander and the likes, you can extract the 4-digit pin by reading it off the cluster/ecm. Official VAG tools don't do that.
Audi/VAG stopped giving out these 7-pin SKC codes in 2005. AFAIK, with dealership terminals this is done "online", and that 7-pin SKC is "blacklisted" on Audis servers after 24 hours. If you DID happen to have a friend at a dealership willing and somehow able to give you a code and all these details - it worth noting that with VCDS, you'll be able to login with those numbers whenever you want. I'm a bit unclear as of wether VCDS will actually show you the 4 (5) digit pin that is calculated from the 7-pin SKC and the other stuff, or if it will just appear as astrixes etc, on the screen.

Juschiln19

Thanks buddy I'm going to look into this...

Juschiln19

My concern is if I use the vag com will it delete all key and start fresh( delete all keys)? the dealer told me thw immobleizer wouldn't program. I looked up reasons why that could be and found it can only have 8 keys in its life. And figures that had to be it. My main conern is if something is wrong where it can't be programed. Meaning no programing new keys and it deletes all keys then the car won't start and I'll have to take to dealer for $1050. Immobleizer / interment cluster and $200 to put in and $100 per key programmed. That's the only reason I consider just putting the chip in dash and removing chip from all other keys so no conflict. And just rolling with it the spare opens doors it was just the starting the car ordeal. This let's me bypass this and move forward but I'd really rather so it right and program it the risk is pretty high...

But I do have a question the only programed key is a flip key and it has a battery is that needed for the chip to be read? I figured it was for the alarm bottons but the spare has one too it also has a flash light but I almost felt they added that since it already had a battery please help called best buy made appointment and installer just said I have to remove the chip he won't be responsible for removal and possible breakage.... need to know by Sunday the 7th thanks buddy I appreciate it

seishuku

Battery isn't needed, that's only on immo3+ cars where it's an active RFID system (mainly used for the KESSY push start stuff).

These older immobilizer systems are really simple, you only need the 5 digit PIN to do any key programming, none of that 7 digit only-for-one-day crap that the newer cars need.

Read this:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ching_(Cluster)

If you follow that, you shouldn't have any issues.

georgeb944

Immobilizer II Key Matching (Cluster) - Ross-Tech Wiki

Juschiln19

Ok here where I'm at do I attempt to program a new key. When the dealer tried and failed. And a tech came out and failed to program any new key. The dealer wouldn't say why it wouldn't work. The tech was clueless. But did get me the 4 digit pin. BUT MY MAIN CONCERN GUYS IS IF MAKE THE LEAP AND TRY AND REPROGRAM ALL KEYS AND THE ADAPTION IS WHAT WRONG WITH UT THEN I'D BE SCREWED BECAUSE IT WOULD DELETE ALL KEYS AND THEN WON'T ADAPT NEW ONES. RIGHT NOW IT'S STILL DRIVABLE. BUT IF THAT HAPPENED IT WONT BE. I'D HAVE TO GET THE DEALER TO REPLACE UNIT FOR $1050. AND INSTALL FOR $200. THEN $100. PER KEY PROGRAMMED. I'M TRYING TO AVOID THAT. SO TELL ME UR OPINIONS.
I found that if I take the transponder out of the only key that is programmed . And hide that in the dash(what the tech needed was a key that was programmed he can hide in dash by immobleizer to trick car into thinking keys in ignition while it's remote started.) As opposed to a whole key. Then if I take all chips out of all other keys to be used then ta da. The remote start works and I can start it with any cut key with no chip. .. no more hassle and I get what I needed... just a spare that can start it and remote start that's operational.... what do u guys think I just feel if I already found solution that's risk free why take the leap and pray for best and if it goes bad it's BAD.. $1500 BAD just to be able to drive it.... BIG JUMP FOR ME. but tell me what u think

Juschiln19

OK so tried to get alarm installed. It was a bust. I had called ahead to see if I still needed to cover anything else for the alarm and geek squad at best buy told me no. Upon taking the car for install was informed I needed another $300. In parts and labor. But what gets me is, not only did I call ahead. but I bought the alarm in a package deal on black Friday for $500. With installation. So if I still have to pay for labor then want did the package deal include?? Just word "installation".... I mean really.... but to get on topic. I guess it wouldn't have worked anyway. Before when I used my spare key(no chip in side)with the original flip key on the key ring next to it. I could start the car and drive it. The immobleizer light would flash but car would start and drive.. but when leaving best buy and seems everytime since if I try and use the spare the immobleizer kicks in and car won't stay running... but if I pull the key out turn the car on with the original flip key then turn it off restart it with the spare key then it works... I didn't have to do that before... werid.. so now I'm back to square one so I guess I'm going to get a new set of spares and try and program them with the vcds. If that don't work I have another instrument cluster/ immobleizer I can try and swap in and try to program again. Of both fail then I give up.... time to cough up the $1500. For new cluster/immobleizer w/install and programing 2 keys Damn it... I hope I can get the vcds to work..... please.... oh please work...... thanks again for all help and advice

georgeb944

This reminds me of the old joke, "How do you double the value of a Yugo? ... You fill the tank with fuel." So, "How do you double the value of an old Audi??"... "You buy some new keys for it."

Juschiln19

Huh????