where is the crank locking plug on a 3.0L 2003 A6??
09-04-2011, 12:24 PM
#11
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I did the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat yesterday with a friend on my 2004 A6 3.0 avant. The car has just under 70K miles. Total time was about 11 hours. We did NOT use the crank lock; we couldn't find the hole after searching for about an hour. I went with the assumption that it would have been difficult to move the crankshaft pulley by hand.
After the timing belt was on, I turned the engine over 4 revolutions by hand to make sure nothing was hitting.
I drove it about 80 miles today, and it appears that there are no leaks.
After the timing belt was on, I turned the engine over 4 revolutions by hand to make sure nothing was hitting.
I drove it about 80 miles today, and it appears that there are no leaks.
09-04-2011, 04:08 PM
#12
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No no no....you do not struggle to get the 'right' tooth. Read up on the TB change procedure. Short cuts may or may not work if you screw it up.
The engine is turned to TDC and the crank is pinned. Front toothed cam pulley bolts are removed and cam pulleys loosen and a cam location bar locates both cam banks (one cam per side from the front, the other cam per bank is driven by a chain at the back of the engine..if the timing chain tensioner for the back is kaka that's a whole other issue).
Then you install the replacement parts such as water pump, TB tensioner, idler pulleys, thermostat, etc. and then Timing Belt.
The engine is turned to TDC and the crank is pinned. Front toothed cam pulley bolts are removed and cam pulleys loosen and a cam location bar locates both cam banks (one cam per side from the front, the other cam per bank is driven by a chain at the back of the engine..if the timing chain tensioner for the back is kaka that's a whole other issue).
Then you install the replacement parts such as water pump, TB tensioner, idler pulleys, thermostat, etc. and then Timing Belt.
09-04-2011, 04:40 PM
#13
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I didn't say I struggled. I lined up the belt starting at the crank pulley per the procedure. Everything lined up the way it was supposed to.
09-04-2011, 05:32 PM
#14
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Any way, It's so hard to find the sealing plug on to me and now I can give you an information from my experimental work. This sealing plug locate on the engine block just bellow #6 cylinder (driver or left side) and thread tool # 40026 with #3 TDC (for AVK=3.0L, 2.7LT and V 8 are same #3242 tool )
HTH. x19
09-06-2011, 08:50 AM
#15
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I didn't use the crank stop thing either , just was careful not to touch the crank while working. I used the cam locks and a few other special tools because I had them. rentaed them from Blau parts, I just wasn't clear on setting teh exhaust cams. Didn't understand what I was doing with the spciacl socket. Nothing moved when I turn to adjust. But whatever car still run fine and so far doesn't leak any water. I'll tell ya the timing belt was starting to crack on the smooth side around the cam pulley's and it felt brittle so I guess it was time to replace it. 90K miles.. I think the book says that's when to replace it.
09-06-2011, 02:29 PM
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I bought the tools from Baumtools.com. Pricey, but I wasn't sure if or when I'd get to the job.
The special socket is apparently used to take up whatever slack may be left in the belt between the pulleys, and apply a pre-load of sorts on the belt. It's not a lot; the procedure says to torque to 10NM. Mine barely moved while torquing it.
My Bentley Manual has nothing in it regarding the timing belt on the AVK engine. I used the procedure that came with the tool set that I bought. I did not understand what the picture of the crankshaft lock was showing me.
I have done 6 timing belt jobs on the VW ALH TDI engine. The AVK timing belt is easier (with the right tools!), but more confusing due to the lack of reliable information.
I hope to get another 70K miles out of this timing belt job...
The special socket is apparently used to take up whatever slack may be left in the belt between the pulleys, and apply a pre-load of sorts on the belt. It's not a lot; the procedure says to torque to 10NM. Mine barely moved while torquing it.
My Bentley Manual has nothing in it regarding the timing belt on the AVK engine. I used the procedure that came with the tool set that I bought. I did not understand what the picture of the crankshaft lock was showing me.
I have done 6 timing belt jobs on the VW ALH TDI engine. The AVK timing belt is easier (with the right tools!), but more confusing due to the lack of reliable information.
I hope to get another 70K miles out of this timing belt job...
11-12-2011, 02:58 PM
#17
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2004 Audi a4 3.0L V6 (AVK) Crank Locking PIN Location!!
Please do not be confused with the other posts!!
The locking pin "tool" location used to lock the crankshaft at TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC) is not the same set up as the 2.8L or the 2.7T motors!
Yes it is on the drivers side and yes it is above the oil pan, but IT IS NOT held in by a 10 mm bolt.
On the 3.0L AVK engines the plug that has to be removed in order to use the tool is its own plug with a star drive center that threads into the block.
The easiest way to get at it, is:
1) remove the air conditioner pump
2) then remove the auxilary water pump (located right behind it)
3) and then it is right there and easy to remove
I will have pics later!
The locking pin "tool" location used to lock the crankshaft at TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC) is not the same set up as the 2.8L or the 2.7T motors!
Yes it is on the drivers side and yes it is above the oil pan, but IT IS NOT held in by a 10 mm bolt.
On the 3.0L AVK engines the plug that has to be removed in order to use the tool is its own plug with a star drive center that threads into the block.
The easiest way to get at it, is:
1) remove the air conditioner pump
2) then remove the auxilary water pump (located right behind it)
3) and then it is right there and easy to remove
I will have pics later!
