I bought a snub mount from PureMS for about $20 awhile back and finally got to installing it yesterday (right after I did the valve cover and cam chain tensioner repair). The mounts hardness is night and day compared to the stock one. I haven't driven around enough yet to decide if it made a noticeable difference, so that remains to be seen.
The PITA factor of this install is about a 6, just because it's a fair amount of maneuvering, entails working under the car, and dealing with a dirt granule lodged in my left eye right from the get-go. It took me about 30 minutes, though. The tools I used were a 13mm ratchet wrench, 13mm shallow socket/ratchet, and a stumpy 8mm Allen wrench...oh, and some silicone lube and a prybar. :P
1. I unbolted 3 Allen bolts securing the bracket to the front of the block.
2. I was able to rotate the bracket around and pop the old mount off it, allowing removal of both from the car...
Bracket, stock mount, and PureMS mount:
Where the bracket mounted to the block:
The mount surround installed in the core support (note 4 13mm hex bolts and green wiring harness clip):
3. I tried putting the PureMS mount up in between the core support and the engine, but getting the mount onto the bracket wasn't happening...as the mount is much tighter on the bracket than the stock one. So, I removed the 4 13mm bolts so that the surround would hang down some.
4. I then installed the PureMS mount about half way onto the bracket. The first time I popped it all the way on and it was a BEAR to get off again...as the mount engages the recess in the bracket.
5. With the mount half on, I positioned the mount into the surround, positioned the surround and bracket/mount up into position against the block, and started the 3 Allen bracket bolts.
6. I installed/tightened the Allen that is closest to the mount (lower, passengerside) first, then got a prybar up behind (in front of) the mount and managed to force the tight bastid onto the bracket.
7. I then started the 4 hex bolts through the surround into the core support.
*There was about 1/2"-3/4" of vertical play between the surround and the mount. I moved the surround down against the top of the mount and snugged all the bolts.
That's about it...not too tough, but can be a pain if you don't have the right tools and get fussy with it (not that I did). I'll report back on any effect I notice after a 600 mile roundtrip drive AND a driving event this weekend.
Great writeup! Being a mechanical n00b, I always thought engine removal is required to replace
the engine mounts. What is the advantage of using aftermarket mounts? This writeup is very inspirational for me. Might be something I can actually tackle on a lazy weekend (in lieu of visiting the in-laws).
2000 A6 4.2Q
Stock and stealthy.
Flame on, I'm a n00b.
<a href="http://www.apple.com/getamac/" target="_blank">Don't ask a man if he uses a Mac. If he does, he would
tell you. If not, why embarrass him? -- Tom Clancy</a>
I thought the core support would have to be put into 'service position' (pulled forward).
I upgraded the snub mount because it was reported to improve shifting on the 6-speed A6s. That and it was inexpensive and (as I learned recently) easy to swap...it was worth a try! I still need to drive around some more, but as of this mornings commute I haven't noticed anything substantial.
Generally engine mounts aren't a worthwhile upgrade, unless you've significantly modified the engine's power output OR the mounts are a weak like in the system...like the throttle body boot on the 2.7 engine.
My driver's side engine mount is showing some leakage (purple fluid), so I am considering upgrading to firmer RS4 mounts....but still have to research the pros and cons before attemting that repair/upgrade.