audifsi3.2

Letter directly from AOA regarding the issue, basically saying it is user error and not their problem... i asked in a follow up email if this would be covered under warranty or cpo and they never responded...


Thank you for contacting Audi of America regarding your questions about carbon build-up. I was delighted to read that you are a long-time Audi owner and enthusiast. Your loyalty to the brand is certainly appreciated. Please accept this written response.

You did not mention, in your e-mail, the nature of the concerns you have been experiencing with the Fuel Straight Injection (FSI) system of your Audi. I am uncertain if these concerns are related to carbon build up and will therefore restrict my answers to the results of my research in regard to your inquiry. I can tell you that carbon is a naturally occurring byproduct in all combustion engines. It looks like a thin coat of black soot similar to what you might find in the flue of a chimney. There are many things, such as contaminants found in lower grade gasoline, floating rust or debris from fuel distributors or retailers’ storage tanks, oil leaks, and short trip driving that can lead to carbon build-up in your engine. The excessive build-up can lead to decreased fuel mileage, excessive emissions, hesitation, lack of power, stalling and poor acceleration because the carbon build-up on the vehicle’s sensors does not allow the computer to properly control the air/fuel mixture and can lead to even further carbon build-up.

All gasoline grades contain substances that can cause deposits to collect on vital engine parts, such as fuel injectors and intake valves. Most gasoline brands include additives to keep engine and fuel systems clean, but they are not all equally effective. As a result, accumulated carbon deposits may adversely affect an engine and prevent peak performance from being achieved. Fuel supplies vary from region to region and therefore the majority of people might never be faced with the same concern since their fuel supplies are different.

With that understanding, it is not unheard of for dealerships in particular regions to identify specific concerns that might require supplemental maintenance services within their area of the country. An example of this would be cleaning fuel injectors due to carbon build-up caused by additives found in gasoline on either a regional or seasonal basis as you indicated was recently done by your authorized Audi dealer. The cleaning is a relatively simple process. Chemicals can be flushed through the fuel system that dislodge and clean out the carbon. Some parts may have to be removed and cleaned manually, or in extreme cases, replaced entirely. Additionally, proper vehicle maintenance throughout a vehicle's service life is also a key ingredient to overall performance of your Audi. The Audi service schedule does not include yearly fuel system cleanings. This type of service would be considered maintenance related since there was not a part replacement necessary due to a manufacturer shortcoming limiting or reducing functionality and therefore is the responsibility of the owner of the vehicle.

In regard to Top Tier Gasoline, I would encourage you to review http://www.toptiergas.com/ for additional information related to the issues that we discussed, what Top Tier Gasoline will do to help those concerns, and retailers where you can obtain these Audi endorsed fuels.

cnyman

Not really sure that this is the "same issue" as I am wondering about the design of the tensioner piston and why it is designed to stay collapsed when it reaches a point in it's travel.

Obviously the responder from Audi did not understand your question or comments. Carbon build up on the valves is not a fuel related issue since the valves really never see "fuel". Yes, the combustion process generates carbon but in our engines, the deposits are primarily on the intake valves from the guides on down to the back of the face. After 130k miles, my pistons and cylinder heads barely have any buildup at all. A quick wipe with brake clean brought them back to almost new. I am aware of some overlap with the intake valves being open when there is still combustion products in the chamber but non FSI engines have this overlap also and do not suffer from the buildup. I am hoping that this person is misinformed as to the nature of your question. Can you share your letter to audi?

FL C6.5 Avant

I got nothing on this.
But I thank you for sharing your experiences and findings. The check valve may indeed be something here.
It's been bothering me that with better than reco'd mx, your engine is such a sludge monster. You did mention M1 0w40, which i have used in various cars and have had good experience with--just a tad thick for my liking at 40 on the hot end. it is also an endorsed 502.00 product. and I like that it is a 0w.
Now. I'm starting to think that we should only be using low-SAPS oils in these engines. I have about 9 mos of engine warranty left, so i prolly wont rock the boat just yet, but i am strongly considering going to a low SAPS 0w-30 (MB, not Audi spec). There are several 504/507 spec'd oils out there, but they are all 5-30 and while i do live in warm climate, i like my oil to flow on cold start.....

audifsi3.2

Audi has to many bla bla bla answers about the fsi engine 'carbon build-up

I live in cold clima, but what is the right oil type for this engine now?
olje5w30 long life syntetisk
spesifikasjonAcea: c3
spesifikasjonApi : sm / cf

spesifikasjonVw 504.00 / 507.00???

cnyman

Well, I got the second valve job done (drivers side this time). Replaced the check valves and the tensioner, again, and pretty much cleaned and flushed everything that would clean and flush. The engine started and ran for 10 seconds, rattled, then ate the drivers side valves again.

Somewhere early in this thread, a poster suggested replacing the oil pump. I had the pump apart and inspected it and there was no signs of scoring or any signs of wear but as it turns out, I am guessing it was bad. (still guessing)

Hindsight would suggest that I have been chasing an oil pressure delivery issue the entire time, not a tensioner problem. Obviously, the two can be mistaken for the other as tensioner rattling can be the tensioner piston not pushing against the guide or low pressure to the tensioner in the first place.

During assembly I pumped oil from the port at the head where the tensioner attaches to the head. Oil flowed from there into the check valve recesses. I filled the cavity where oil flows from the pump to the oil filter, from the oil filter to the block and primed the oil filter canister with the filter installed. I primed the oil pump prior to installation and replaced the o rings on the pump to block connection.

If the pump was performing properly, it should have been milliseconds for the oil to reach the tensioner. I either have a bad pump or some massive restriction somewhere that I haven't discovered.

I now have have roughly 1500 in parts and countless hours invested. I have lost the will to continue as it would take another valve job, an oil pump, and some serious prayers that after that work, it would start and run.

I bought a 2013 R-line CC with a 2.0t. 30k miles one owner, and maintenance records that indicate 10k oil changes. Hopefully, I can save the life of another VW product.

Anybody want a really clean 05 A6 that needs an oil pump and a valve job?

FL C6.5 Avant

damn--sorry to hear.

Fastbird

Oh man, I'm really sorry to see this. Your grit and determination are quite admirable, but we all have our "throw in the towel" moment and I can't say I blame you one bit.

A6 4.2 Vier

I'm also sorry to hear that you didn't see this project to the end. At least you knew enough to abort the project before it became more of a money and time pit. I know from experience that it can be tough decision to throw in the towel on a project that you poured plenty of sweat into, but it takes a knowledgeable person to step back and take a look at the overall picture and know when to pull the plug.

At least you gained valuable knowledge from this project and I appreciate that you shared it with us Audi forum members.

Good luck with your new project. I suggest that you check for sludge in the CC engine. I cringe when I here of 10K mile oil changes. I tend to "over maintain" my cars with 5K synthetic oil changes and regular changes of all fluids (trans, differential, transfer case, power steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant) but I tend to keep my cars a long time.

cnyman

Thanks to all for the help, assistance and kind words. Seemingly, an inanimate object should be fixable with enough knowledge and the appropriate parts. Sadly, I let this one beat me. (This is literally the only car or engine that I have failed to fix in my 55years). As mentioned above, at some point we all have to throw in the towel. I am now faced with attempting to market the car with a blown engine and really don't know what to ask for the thing. Theoretically, is should be worth the book value less what it would cost to either fix it or to put in a used engine in it. I guess I will try craigslist and see what that yields. On the bright side, I now have three 2.0T engined cars and those are crazy easy to work on compared to the 3.2!