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2005 A6 4.2 with battery drain - tried everything
#51
I like that fix. My audi 2001 allroad battery drains in a few hours after the ignition is off. Battery tests good. It doesn't drain competely but to the point it will not start. I think it may the the relay that controls the up/down--maybe a sticky relay. Can anyone help? email is mraiteri@aol.com My first post so don't know if I am doing it correctly. Anyone know how to find relays? Are they all in one location or spread out in different spots on the 2001? I know where the fuses are and have wired #10 to 17 so the pump only works with the ignition on. Any help? Pictures for relay locations.
#53
AudiWorld Member
You might have something weird going on there.. The MMI/Radio should turn off every 10 minutes when the car is off. At least that's what mine does and exactly what my C5 also did. I'm thinking there might be a setting that isn't properly set.. I believe in the hidden menu there was an option on how long it would stay on before turning off.
Another TSB dead battery/advanced key issue:
Edit: I noticed that both of the TSB's were already mentioned in earlier posts, sorry for the repost.
Last edited by A6 4.2 Vier; 11-27-2014 at 05:20 PM.
#54
This procedure details how to replace a battery in a vehicle using a separate battery management control module. See the separate instructions for models where the battery management control module is a slave/subsystem of the gateway.
The following procedure does assume you are using a battery supplied by VW/Audi, all necessary details for the following steps can found on the battery itself. Make sure to refer to the factory repair manual in order to fulfill all additional prerequisites.
[Select]
DRIVETRAIN
[61 - Battery Regulation]
[Coding - 07]
Use the pull down menu to select the battery (slave) listed as #1.
[Battery Coding]
Enter the new Battery Part Number (10 or 11 digits).
Enter the new Battery Serial Number (10 digits).
Select the new Battery Vendor.
[OK]
[Do it!]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Your new Battery should now be coded and the Battery Control Module should be aware of the new Battery.
Note: The 10 digit serial number may be preceded by the battery vendor code, for instance VA0 of Varta. If the code is VA0310314E04G then drop the VA0 and just enter 310314E04G. Sometimes the battery part number sticker can cover up the white sticker with the serial number.
#55
Hey mark
This procedure details how to replace a battery in a vehicle using a separate battery management control module. See the separate instructions for models where the battery management control module is a slave/subsystem of the gateway.
The following procedure does assume you are using a battery supplied by VW/Audi, all necessary details for the following steps can found on the battery itself. Make sure to refer to the factory repair manual in order to fulfill all additional prerequisites.
[Select]
DRIVETRAIN
[61 - Battery Regulation]
[Coding - 07]
Use the pull down menu to select the battery (slave) listed as #1.
[Battery Coding]
Enter the new Battery Part Number (10 or 11 digits).
Enter the new Battery Serial Number (10 digits).
Select the new Battery Vendor.
[OK]
[Do it!]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Your new Battery should now be coded and the Battery Control Module should be aware of the new Battery.
Note: The 10 digit serial number may be preceded by the battery vendor code, for instance VA0 of Varta. If the code is VA0310314E04G then drop the VA0 and just enter 310314E04G. Sometimes the battery part number sticker can cover up the white sticker with the serial number.
This procedure details how to replace a battery in a vehicle using a separate battery management control module. See the separate instructions for models where the battery management control module is a slave/subsystem of the gateway.
The following procedure does assume you are using a battery supplied by VW/Audi, all necessary details for the following steps can found on the battery itself. Make sure to refer to the factory repair manual in order to fulfill all additional prerequisites.
[Select]
DRIVETRAIN
[61 - Battery Regulation]
[Coding - 07]
Use the pull down menu to select the battery (slave) listed as #1.
[Battery Coding]
Enter the new Battery Part Number (10 or 11 digits).
Enter the new Battery Serial Number (10 digits).
Select the new Battery Vendor.
[OK]
[Do it!]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Your new Battery should now be coded and the Battery Control Module should be aware of the new Battery.
Note: The 10 digit serial number may be preceded by the battery vendor code, for instance VA0 of Varta. If the code is VA0310314E04G then drop the VA0 and just enter 310314E04G. Sometimes the battery part number sticker can cover up the white sticker with the serial number.
Mark
#56
A new battery should hopefully cure your problem.
I've had the same issue and I've since given up on it.
Mine started last year around fall and earlier this year I got the battery coded to the car since I didn't the battery in the car was coded. This helped for a few months through the summer and then and it sporadically started dying around August. The biggest difference between us though is the fact that even though my car dies, it always starts up. It never dies to the point where it doesn't start up. It starts up every single time without fail even though its dead. With my car for example the door won't open without you pressing unlock on the key and when you do the leaving home lights don't come on or the interior lights don't come one. And depending on how dead the car is, the odometer and time might not light up. But the car starts without fail. And since you car dies to the point of not starting it's either your battery or power management module. Typically when your power module is on it's way out you'll get codes for it. I have quiscient drain or something along those lines codes showing up. They indicate power stages and stuff but I haven't dug deep into them since my car always starts up without fail. Since you're not getting codes like it that it points to your battery being the culprit even though it might test out fine.
Also it's normal for your CD drive to make noises/do stuff after you turn the car off. For example if you load 6 CD's into the drive in succession (press and hold the LOAD button for around 5 seconds) and then turn the car off, the CD changer will keep on making noises after you turn it off for as long as it takes to index all the CD's. That's how MMI is able to display the name of the CD's. Also if you were to insert a new CD and turn the car off before it finishes indexing/recognizing it, the CD changer will keep on making noises until it's done.
I've had the same issue and I've since given up on it.
Mine started last year around fall and earlier this year I got the battery coded to the car since I didn't the battery in the car was coded. This helped for a few months through the summer and then and it sporadically started dying around August. The biggest difference between us though is the fact that even though my car dies, it always starts up. It never dies to the point where it doesn't start up. It starts up every single time without fail even though its dead. With my car for example the door won't open without you pressing unlock on the key and when you do the leaving home lights don't come on or the interior lights don't come one. And depending on how dead the car is, the odometer and time might not light up. But the car starts without fail. And since you car dies to the point of not starting it's either your battery or power management module. Typically when your power module is on it's way out you'll get codes for it. I have quiscient drain or something along those lines codes showing up. They indicate power stages and stuff but I haven't dug deep into them since my car always starts up without fail. Since you're not getting codes like it that it points to your battery being the culprit even though it might test out fine.
Also it's normal for your CD drive to make noises/do stuff after you turn the car off. For example if you load 6 CD's into the drive in succession (press and hold the LOAD button for around 5 seconds) and then turn the car off, the CD changer will keep on making noises after you turn it off for as long as it takes to index all the CD's. That's how MMI is able to display the name of the CD's. Also if you were to insert a new CD and turn the car off before it finishes indexing/recognizing it, the CD changer will keep on making noises until it's done.
#57
AudiWorld Member
#59
Ok, I somewhat hijacked this thread and re-started it I think about 6-8 weeks ago because I was having a battery drain issue. Well, I did a bunch of stuff to try to find the culprit. Disconnected the XM and CD changer, re-charged the battery. It was good for awhile so I figured it was one of these. Well within about a week the battery was dead overnight again. So re-charged battery again and started this over again leaving only the cd changer disconnected. My wife drove the car one day and said her phone wouldn't charge. Figured blown cigarette lighter fuse which it was, but saw that it was a 20A fuse. That's really big. The only way your going to blow a 20A fuse is by a short since a car 12v/5V adaptor only pulls about 1A. Also, I leave this adaptor in place and never take it out reducing the chance it was shorted. This got me thinking that the adaptor was causing this issue. It was a Duracell brand adaptor with (2) 5V USB ports. Been using it for about 2 years now. I replaced the fuse, bought a new adaptor, car has started every morning for about the last 3 weeks without issue even as the temps are dramatically colder then before, especially overnight. The car turns over a bit slow sometimes but always starts. Honestly I contribute that to just killing the battery so many times but also remember it getting a bit slow last winter also. I think it really just needs a new battery at this point, but in my opinion the battery is not draining anymore.
I'm still have a hard time believing this was it, but all I know is it's start everyday now and even can sit for a few days and still starts.
Anyone care to chime in...
I'm still have a hard time believing this was it, but all I know is it's start everyday now and even can sit for a few days and still starts.
Anyone care to chime in...
#60
Ok, I somewhat hijacked this thread and re-started it I think about 6-8 weeks ago because I was having a battery drain issue. Well, I did a bunch of stuff to try to find the culprit. Disconnected the XM and CD changer, re-charged the battery. It was good for awhile so I figured it was one of these. Well within about a week the battery was dead overnight again. So re-charged battery again and started this over again leaving only the cd changer disconnected. My wife drove the car one day and said her phone wouldn't charge. Figured blown cigarette lighter fuse which it was, but saw that it was a 20A fuse. That's really big. The only way your going to blow a 20A fuse is by a short since a car 12v/5V adaptor only pulls about 1A. Also, I leave this adaptor in place and never take it out reducing the chance it was shorted. This got me thinking that the adaptor was causing this issue. It was a Duracell brand adaptor with (2) 5V USB ports. Been using it for about 2 years now. I replaced the fuse, bought a new adaptor, car has started every morning for about the last 3 weeks without issue even as the temps are dramatically colder then before, especially overnight. The car turns over a bit slow sometimes but always starts. Honestly I contribute that to just killing the battery so many times but also remember it getting a bit slow last winter also. I think it really just needs a new battery at this point, but in my opinion the battery is not draining anymore.
I'm still have a hard time believing this was it, but all I know is it's start everyday now and even can sit for a few days and still starts.
Anyone care to chime in...
I'm still have a hard time believing this was it, but all I know is it's start everyday now and even can sit for a few days and still starts.
Anyone care to chime in...
If you are using the cigarette lighter under the armrest, that module stay alive whenever something is plugged in. So if you have a usb device and it's in the plug, then it will continue to drain the battery. Hence your issue.
I believe the one up front (in the change tray) will automatically turn off when the car is off.