3.2L FSI, What's wrong with belt tensioner and how to replace it. Plus serpentine bel
#1
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
3.2L FSI, What's wrong with belt tensioner and how to replace it. Plus serpentine bel
This guide is for information purpose only based on my experience with 2006 A6 Quattro with 3.2L FSI engine, VIN No. WAUDG74F96N03xxxx . Use them at your own risk.
I have no personal interest in any of products or companies I mentioned.
Please check the parts numbers with Audi dealer to make sure you get the latest level to fit your car’s VIN No.
Parts needed:
Belt Tensioner (Belt damper) 06E-903-133-Q
Serpentine Belt (if replacing) 06E-903-137-J
Tools:
Torx bits: T50
Socket (17mm), Breaker bar or ratchet
Nail with sharp end cut off (optional)
Inspection:
While engine is idling, look at the belt tensioner from top and see if it is wobbling.
Mine wobbled badly, and backside of pulley was scraping the tensioner housing.
Audi updated the part with the metal pulley.
Removal:
Engage 17mm socket on long ratchet or breaker bar into Hex head on the tensioner and turn CW and relieve tension.
If you are replacing the belt and going to use old tensioner, turn the tensioner CW to the stop and engage a locking pin (nail with sharp point cut off will work). It will free your two hands for belt installation.
Slide the belt off the water pump pulley, and fish out the entire belt.
Note. If you are not replacing the belt, make sure to mark the direction of rotation so that you can put it back in same direction when you reinstall it. If belt is turned in reverse direction, it will fail early.
Pop out the cap in the center with small flat head screwdriver to get access to mounting bolt (T50) and remove the bolt.
Install:
Install new tensioner (it comes with a locking pin pre-installed). Use a torx bit and turn with fingers until you are about to reach the end, then locate the anti-rotating pin to the engine block and finish up the finger tightening. Torque to 40 NM (T50).
Install the plastic cap.
Install a serpentine belt.
Place ribbed belt over pulleys in the order as shown in the illustration.
1. Generator
2. Idler roller
3. Coolant pump
4. Power-steering pump
5. A/C compressor
6. Crankshaft
7. Tensioner
Engage 17mm socket on long ratchet or breaker bar into Hex head on the tensioner and turn CW to remove tension and pull out the locking pin.
Make sure that belt is properly riding on ribs of pulleys especially on A/C compressor.
.
I have no personal interest in any of products or companies I mentioned.
Please check the parts numbers with Audi dealer to make sure you get the latest level to fit your car’s VIN No.
Parts needed:
Belt Tensioner (Belt damper) 06E-903-133-Q
Serpentine Belt (if replacing) 06E-903-137-J
Tools:
Torx bits: T50
Socket (17mm), Breaker bar or ratchet
Nail with sharp end cut off (optional)
Inspection:
While engine is idling, look at the belt tensioner from top and see if it is wobbling.
Mine wobbled badly, and backside of pulley was scraping the tensioner housing.
Audi updated the part with the metal pulley.
Removal:
Engage 17mm socket on long ratchet or breaker bar into Hex head on the tensioner and turn CW and relieve tension.
If you are replacing the belt and going to use old tensioner, turn the tensioner CW to the stop and engage a locking pin (nail with sharp point cut off will work). It will free your two hands for belt installation.
Slide the belt off the water pump pulley, and fish out the entire belt.
Note. If you are not replacing the belt, make sure to mark the direction of rotation so that you can put it back in same direction when you reinstall it. If belt is turned in reverse direction, it will fail early.
Pop out the cap in the center with small flat head screwdriver to get access to mounting bolt (T50) and remove the bolt.
Install:
Install new tensioner (it comes with a locking pin pre-installed). Use a torx bit and turn with fingers until you are about to reach the end, then locate the anti-rotating pin to the engine block and finish up the finger tightening. Torque to 40 NM (T50).
Install the plastic cap.
Install a serpentine belt.
Place ribbed belt over pulleys in the order as shown in the illustration.
1. Generator
2. Idler roller
3. Coolant pump
4. Power-steering pump
5. A/C compressor
6. Crankshaft
7. Tensioner
Engage 17mm socket on long ratchet or breaker bar into Hex head on the tensioner and turn CW to remove tension and pull out the locking pin.
Make sure that belt is properly riding on ribs of pulleys especially on A/C compressor.
.
#2
AudiWorld Senior Member
great write up. Thanks for the info. Was looking for a schematic for a while. I got a noise from either my belt or the tensioner when the AC is on, a high pitched whining noise, most noticeable at 1000-1800 rpm. Thought it was AC compressor, but it wasn't. So this is next step. Did you have trouble accessing the tensioner. Did you get to it from top or bottom of engine?
#4
AudiWorld Senior Member
my guess, yes, but it would be a PITA because the tensioner is hidden behind the AC compressor, if you look at it from bottom of engine. Def looking to get some input from people that have done it.
#5
AudiWorld Senior Member
On a side note, i went to get a quote on yourmechanic.com and sure enough, it's only 2.5-3 hours to replace belt and tensioner. My guess is they figure this can be done without taking off the bumper
#6
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Sorry I wasn't clear about how to approach this.
It has been more than 6 years ago and can not remember exactly how I did it.
I probably did it from top because I removed the both upper and lower intake manifolds and the cross over pipe for coolant while working doing carbon cleaning.
I don't think you can have clear access from top because the coolant cross over pipe is in the way. However, you don't need to remove bumper and other stuffs like radiator and condenser. That will be insane just to replace a tensioner.
It has been more than 6 years ago and can not remember exactly how I did it.
I probably did it from top because I removed the both upper and lower intake manifolds and the cross over pipe for coolant while working doing carbon cleaning.
I don't think you can have clear access from top because the coolant cross over pipe is in the way. However, you don't need to remove bumper and other stuffs like radiator and condenser. That will be insane just to replace a tensioner.
#7
AudiWorld Senior Member
I am at 120k miles and the serpentine belt has never been replaced. I am wondering if it is time.
What about the rest of you? When are you doing the belt and tensioner?
What about the rest of you? When are you doing the belt and tensioner?
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#8
AudiWorld Super User
I replaced the original serp belt on 2006 A6 Avant at 70,000 miles after 9 years of service. I use a ~75.0K mile change interval. Since you are at 120K miles on the original belt, I would change it.
#9
Hi Audi Bug,
I was reading your how-to, thanks for providing that Not much information on internet about how to do this. I had the displeasure of dealing with a certain Hugh over at a online parts shop for audi (won't name the shop, very condensating guy).
Did you remember if you had to remove the entire front end to get to the belt itself?
Thanks in advance,
Marc,
I was reading your how-to, thanks for providing that Not much information on internet about how to do this. I had the displeasure of dealing with a certain Hugh over at a online parts shop for audi (won't name the shop, very condensating guy).
Did you remember if you had to remove the entire front end to get to the belt itself?
Thanks in advance,
Marc,
#10
AudiWorld Senior Member
Hi Audi Bug,
I was reading your how-to, thanks for providing that Not much information on internet about how to do this. I had the displeasure of dealing with a certain Hugh over at a online parts shop for audi (won't name the shop, very condensating guy).
Did you remember if you had to remove the entire front end to get to the belt itself?
Thanks in advance,
Marc,
I was reading your how-to, thanks for providing that Not much information on internet about how to do this. I had the displeasure of dealing with a certain Hugh over at a online parts shop for audi (won't name the shop, very condensating guy).
Did you remember if you had to remove the entire front end to get to the belt itself?
Thanks in advance,
Marc,
He just said in this thread he DID NOT need to take out the front end. Had to remove some other stuff to make more room though