cnyman

Probably has been worked on previously and someone replaced them. The torx bolts are somewhat easy to strip out and the bolts would be better in my opinion, however, they don't need to be tightened to ridiculous levels.

turbo97se

OK well it looks like I have to do this now ... I got a check engine light today - P0366 as below:



When I used VAG to scan, it looks like my Bank 1 exhaust cam is out by around 20 degrees. Is my diagnosis correct?



If anyone has tools they want to sell on or rent out, let me know. Thanks!

I was about to go on a road trip .. better it happened now than when I am hundreds of miles from home I guess

turbo97se

Another thing is can someone help to confirm the following part numbers?

OP stated Left Upper 18266-01183647 (Partsgeek.com) now is $282.37 is this same as W0133-1773921 = 06E109217H?

OP stated Right upper 18264-01183648 (Partsgeek.com) not listed anymore .. is this same as W0133-1773922 = 06E109218H?

The prices from Partsgeek.com have gone up quite a bit so looking at alternative sources.

mixtery

fantastic thanks for posting. Will save this hope I never need it.

pmoell

hi!

thanks for this great write-up and the thread!

decided to change the tensioner on my 2006 A6 Avant 3.2 due to diesel knocking (no codes, slightly unround idle, but otherwise no problems at 30000 miles)

i have two questions:

what is the torque for the t-30 chain tensioner screws?

while replacing the driver side tensioner i realized, that the second chain (the one that goes to the other side and down) is pretty loose (about 5mm play). is that normal (it gets tensioned by oil pressure?) or am i screwed and have a tensioner issue where a cannot reach it?

here is a video.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/d7z4p92vle...08.53.mp4?dl=0


hope someone can help...


thanks


phil

pmoell

hi!

thanks for this great write-up and the thread!

decided to change the tensioner on my 2006 A6 Avant 3.2 due to diesel knocking (no codes, slightly unround idle, but otherwise no problems at 30000 miles)

i have two questions:

what is the torque for the t-30 chain tensioner screws?

while replacing the driver side tensioner i realized, that the second chain (the one that goes to the other side and down) is pretty loose (about 5mm play). is that normal (it gets tensioned by oil pressure?) or am i screwed and have a tensioner issue where a cannot reach it?

here is a video.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/d7z4p92vle...08.53.mp4?dl=0


https://www.dropbox.com/s/d7z4p92vle...08.53.mp4?dl=0


hope someone can help...


thanks


phil

A6Gary

Looking at the Bentley Repair Manual, its states: "Chain Tensioner to Cylinder Block Bolt 1): 6 N-m + 45 ° turn"

A6Gary

Your video links don't seem to work. Also, you really only have 30,000 miles on that engine, and you're replacing the camshaft chain tensioners? If that is the case, I thnik there was some really serious lack of maintenance performed during the engine's young life.

jmland

Thanks for posting this! I'm looking at buying a 2006 A6 Avant 3.2 with 87,000 miles. It doesn't currently have timing chain issues, but I wonder if it would be wise to go ahead and replace the upper tensioners as a preventative measure against future timing chain problems? Also, from what I've read elsewhere, this problem appears to be largely preventable simply by being diligent with regular oil changes and making the sure oil level is not allowed to dip too low. Any thoughts on this?

FL C6.5 Avant

my advice would be to pay to have one of the valve cover gaskets replaced for the current owner as part of your pre-buy inspection.
of course the real motivation is to see inside engine at the coking/varnish/sludge, etc.
oil level is just rigor --no excuse.
oil changes are necessary, but may not be sufficient to preclude tensioner issues.