09-07-2016, 03:03 PM
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- Audi A6 C6 How to Replace Upper Timing Chain Tensioners<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
DIY - A6 3.2 Upper Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement
10-23-2016, 09:24 AM
#241
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I got two bent intake valves as I expected in the cylinder which didn't have any compression. Everything else seemed to be ok. So I will replace bent valves and assemble the engine with new gasket, head bolts and new tensioner. I wont risk it with used tensioner... Maybe getting the parts on next week.
Lindberg, any update yet?
Lindberg, any update yet?
10-24-2016, 01:20 AM
#242
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Check the variable valve solenoid. Unfortunately, I do not have my VAG available to give you a screen shot as I am out of the country, but you can check how many degrees it is set at. Then swap bank one and two to see if it follows the solenoid. When you pull the solenoids, be very careful ... dirt builds up around the solenoid and can drop in, even worse is that it is recessed so not easy to clean. Clean up as best you can around the solenoid before you pull it. If I recall, it is just one tor screw holding it in place. This was my exact issue. I thought it had jumped timing too but it wasn't that. Been there and done that.
Here is a thread I googled for you:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...2823874/page2/
Part number for the part was 06E109257J (Check for any updated versions of the solenoid).
Here is a thread I googled for you:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...2823874/page2/
Part number for the part was 06E109257J (Check for any updated versions of the solenoid).
I've got a 2006 A6 3.2L (wife's car actually). A few weeks ago the passenger timing chain tensioner started making noise. She drove it home and then I started it once to hear the noise. I scanned it with my OBD2 tool (I don't have a vagcom) and got a p0366, which is cam position bank 1. Using the info in this thread and a few others, I replaced both tensioners. It had jumped time, but only a tooth or two on the passenger side exhaust cam. So I got it back in time using the cam locking bars and crank pin that came with the timing tool set I bought. At initial startup I had alot of chain clatter. And it ran rough for the short time I had it running. I scanned again and got the same cam position fault as before. After more research I found that I didn't correctly pretension the chains when I put everything back together. When I started it the slack in the chain allowed it to jump time again. It was the passenger exhaust cam again, out of time about the same amount as it originally was. I loosened the cam sprocket bolts on that side and got everything lined back up and then correctly pretensioned the chain. Put it all back together and gave it another try. This time no chain noise and it started up fine, but shortly it went to a rough idle again. Scan showed same po366 code as well as a misfire on cyl. 1. I took it all back apart assuming that it must've jumped time again, but it had not. The cam locking bars and crank pin went right in place, so the physical timing is good. I took this opportunity to do a compression test, because at this point I still didn't even know if I had bent valves. The passenger side cylinders were all around 170 (with cold engine) drivers side around 150. I think this tells me that I don't have any bent valves. But confused about why it's idling poorly and throwing codes still. When I put it back together I swapped the coil and plug from cyl 1 and cyl 3, to see if the misfire moves there. I also swapped both cam potion sensors from passenger to drive side, ro see if the cam position error code jumped to the other side. This time when I started it up, it started fine again (no chain noise) and seemed to be running well at first. Once again after 30 seconds or a minute it started with the rough idle again. Eventually got service tone and got the same po366 code. I ran it a couple more times for a total of prolly 5 or 6 minutes then recanned. I picked up an additional code of p0346, which is cam position sensor range circuit a (bank 2). That one is the drivers side. Now I'm just sorta confused about what the problem is. I mechanic buddy has suggested that I get it all back together and actually take it for a drive (as opposed to just a couple minutes running in the garage) to give the car a chance to sort of level itself out. I may try this after removing the valve covers to verify that the timing is still good.
Ok, all that, just to ask....
Anybody got any additional ideas or advice?
Ok, all that, just to ask....
Anybody got any additional ideas or advice?
Last edited by turbo97se; 10-24-2016 at 02:09 AM.
11-05-2016, 05:55 AM
#243
Now I have a vag com, and still confused.
So I bought a vag com to help diagnose my problem. I took three of the four valve adjusters out and electroshocked them to make sure they are moving. I put them back in different spots. I didnt pull the drivers side exhaust one, cause my codes were primarily on the drivers side cams. I took the car out and drove it several times (as my mechanic buddy suggested) and the codes I'm getting from the vag com are now only for the Drivers side cams. The car starts and runs fine, but just feels underpowered compared to usual. The vag com gave me this:
3.0 ° KW Phase Position Intke Bank 1
16.9°KW on intake bank 2
1.9° KW on exhaust bank 1
15.8° KW on exhaust bank 2
When I saw this, I thought that it looks like it jumped time on the driver side, both cams. I tore down last night and the timing does not appear to be off. The cam locks and crank pin went in. I don't understand how the vag com shows the cams being off by that much, but it still seems to be physically, in time. I guess I'm assuming that 15 or 16 degrees is a huge amount and should correlate to a physical difference in timing. Could the valve adjusters being faulty create this amount of offset in the phase postions? Also, it seems too coincidental that valve adjuster go bad at the same time as the original timing chain tensioner problem. I'm confused at this point. I originally pre tensioned the timing chain incorrectly after tensioner install. I had to redo the passenger side b/c it jumped time on first startup after that, but I have not done anything to the drivers side (as far as loosening cam hubs and and pre tensioning the chains correctly) b/c I thought that all the slack must have gotten taken up after the car built oil pressure on that first start up. And, at the time, I had no cam codes for the Drivers side. I wonder if that is worth doing? Could the chain not being tight enough between the two cam hubs create this kind of offset?
If I wasn't bald, I'd prolly start pulling my hair out right about now.
QUOTE=turbo97se;24872857]Check the variable valve solenoid. Unfortunately, I do not have my VAG available to give you a screen shot as I am out of the country, but you can check how many degrees it is set at. Then swap bank one and two to see if it follows the solenoid. When you pull the solenoids, be very careful ... dirt builds up around the solenoid and can drop in, even worse is that it is recessed so not easy to clean. Clean up as best you can around the solenoid before you pull it. If I recall, it is just one tor screw holding it in place. This was my exact issue. I thought it had jumped timing too but it wasn't that. Been there and done that.
Here is a thread I googled for you:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...2823874/page2/
Part number for the part was 06E109257J (Check for any updated versions of the solenoid).[/QUOTE]
3.0 ° KW Phase Position Intke Bank 1
16.9°KW on intake bank 2
1.9° KW on exhaust bank 1
15.8° KW on exhaust bank 2
When I saw this, I thought that it looks like it jumped time on the driver side, both cams. I tore down last night and the timing does not appear to be off. The cam locks and crank pin went in. I don't understand how the vag com shows the cams being off by that much, but it still seems to be physically, in time. I guess I'm assuming that 15 or 16 degrees is a huge amount and should correlate to a physical difference in timing. Could the valve adjusters being faulty create this amount of offset in the phase postions? Also, it seems too coincidental that valve adjuster go bad at the same time as the original timing chain tensioner problem. I'm confused at this point. I originally pre tensioned the timing chain incorrectly after tensioner install. I had to redo the passenger side b/c it jumped time on first startup after that, but I have not done anything to the drivers side (as far as loosening cam hubs and and pre tensioning the chains correctly) b/c I thought that all the slack must have gotten taken up after the car built oil pressure on that first start up. And, at the time, I had no cam codes for the Drivers side. I wonder if that is worth doing? Could the chain not being tight enough between the two cam hubs create this kind of offset?
If I wasn't bald, I'd prolly start pulling my hair out right about now.
QUOTE=turbo97se;24872857]Check the variable valve solenoid. Unfortunately, I do not have my VAG available to give you a screen shot as I am out of the country, but you can check how many degrees it is set at. Then swap bank one and two to see if it follows the solenoid. When you pull the solenoids, be very careful ... dirt builds up around the solenoid and can drop in, even worse is that it is recessed so not easy to clean. Clean up as best you can around the solenoid before you pull it. If I recall, it is just one tor screw holding it in place. This was my exact issue. I thought it had jumped timing too but it wasn't that. Been there and done that.
Here is a thread I googled for you:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...2823874/page2/
Part number for the part was 06E109257J (Check for any updated versions of the solenoid).[/QUOTE]
11-07-2016, 06:41 AM
#245
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Join Date: Jun 2010
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It's a little difficult for me to follow exactly what you did. Take a look at my posts on page 15 and especially page 16 (post 159) on this thread (I couldn't remember where I posted before otherwise I would have shared this link with you earlier):
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...861500/page15/
1. Did you do a before and after swapping scan? Always do a before scan so you know what baseline is and can pinpoint the issue better.
2. Do you have new codes?
3. Would suggest you check the exhaust ones again. If you check my post, the exhaust one was the issue. In swapping the intake ones, it is possible that dirt got onto your intake bank 2 solenoid and messed it up, but it is difficult to know if that is what happened unless you scanned before swapping. If your timing marks are all lined up and good, then it is more than likely that one or more of the solenoid valves are bad. Electroshocking them has limited effect. The swap test is the most effective in diagnosing with more certainty in this case.
[/QUOTE]
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...861500/page15/
1. Did you do a before and after swapping scan? Always do a before scan so you know what baseline is and can pinpoint the issue better.
2. Do you have new codes?
3. Would suggest you check the exhaust ones again. If you check my post, the exhaust one was the issue. In swapping the intake ones, it is possible that dirt got onto your intake bank 2 solenoid and messed it up, but it is difficult to know if that is what happened unless you scanned before swapping. If your timing marks are all lined up and good, then it is more than likely that one or more of the solenoid valves are bad. Electroshocking them has limited effect. The swap test is the most effective in diagnosing with more certainty in this case.
So I bought a vag com to help diagnose my problem. I took three of the four valve adjusters out and electroshocked them to make sure they are moving. I put them back in different spots. I didnt pull the drivers side exhaust one, cause my codes were primarily on the drivers side cams. I took the car out and drove it several times (as my mechanic buddy suggested) and the codes I'm getting from the vag com are now only for the Drivers side cams. The car starts and runs fine, but just feels underpowered compared to usual. The vag com gave me this:
3.0 ° KW Phase Position Intke Bank 1
16.9°KW on intake bank 2
1.9° KW on exhaust bank 1
15.8° KW on exhaust bank 2
When I saw this, I thought that it looks like it jumped time on the driver side, both cams. I tore down last night and the timing does not appear to be off. The cam locks and crank pin went in. I don't understand how the vag com shows the cams being off by that much, but it still seems to be physically, in time. I guess I'm assuming that 15 or 16 degrees is a huge amount and should correlate to a physical difference in timing. Could the valve adjusters being faulty create this amount of offset in the phase postions? Also, it seems too coincidental that valve adjuster go bad at the same time as the original timing chain tensioner problem. I'm confused at this point. I originally pre tensioned the timing chain incorrectly after tensioner install. I had to redo the passenger side b/c it jumped time on first startup after that, but I have not done anything to the drivers side (as far as loosening cam hubs and and pre tensioning the chains correctly) b/c I thought that all the slack must have gotten taken up after the car built oil pressure on that first start up. And, at the time, I had no cam codes for the Drivers side. I wonder if that is worth doing? Could the chain not being tight enough between the two cam hubs create this kind of offset?
If I wasn't bald, I'd prolly start pulling my hair out right about now.
QUOTE=turbo97se;24872857]Check the variable valve solenoid. Unfortunately, I do not have my VAG available to give you a screen shot as I am out of the country, but you can check how many degrees it is set at. Then swap bank one and two to see if it follows the solenoid. When you pull the solenoids, be very careful ... dirt builds up around the solenoid and can drop in, even worse is that it is recessed so not easy to clean. Clean up as best you can around the solenoid before you pull it. If I recall, it is just one tor screw holding it in place. This was my exact issue. I thought it had jumped timing too but it wasn't that. Been there and done that.
Here is a thread I googled for you:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...2823874/page2/
Part number for the part was 06E109257J (Check for any updated versions of the solenoid).
3.0 ° KW Phase Position Intke Bank 1
16.9°KW on intake bank 2
1.9° KW on exhaust bank 1
15.8° KW on exhaust bank 2
When I saw this, I thought that it looks like it jumped time on the driver side, both cams. I tore down last night and the timing does not appear to be off. The cam locks and crank pin went in. I don't understand how the vag com shows the cams being off by that much, but it still seems to be physically, in time. I guess I'm assuming that 15 or 16 degrees is a huge amount and should correlate to a physical difference in timing. Could the valve adjusters being faulty create this amount of offset in the phase postions? Also, it seems too coincidental that valve adjuster go bad at the same time as the original timing chain tensioner problem. I'm confused at this point. I originally pre tensioned the timing chain incorrectly after tensioner install. I had to redo the passenger side b/c it jumped time on first startup after that, but I have not done anything to the drivers side (as far as loosening cam hubs and and pre tensioning the chains correctly) b/c I thought that all the slack must have gotten taken up after the car built oil pressure on that first start up. And, at the time, I had no cam codes for the Drivers side. I wonder if that is worth doing? Could the chain not being tight enough between the two cam hubs create this kind of offset?
If I wasn't bald, I'd prolly start pulling my hair out right about now.
QUOTE=turbo97se;24872857]Check the variable valve solenoid. Unfortunately, I do not have my VAG available to give you a screen shot as I am out of the country, but you can check how many degrees it is set at. Then swap bank one and two to see if it follows the solenoid. When you pull the solenoids, be very careful ... dirt builds up around the solenoid and can drop in, even worse is that it is recessed so not easy to clean. Clean up as best you can around the solenoid before you pull it. If I recall, it is just one tor screw holding it in place. This was my exact issue. I thought it had jumped timing too but it wasn't that. Been there and done that.
Here is a thread I googled for you:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...2823874/page2/
Part number for the part was 06E109257J (Check for any updated versions of the solenoid).
11-09-2016, 05:00 PM
#246
Thanks for your feedback turbo97se. Since I last posted, I scanned for codes and am still getting cam position codes for both intake and exhaust on driver side only. I then swapped valve solenoids from driver to passenger (intake and exhaust). I cleared codes and drove it, then rescanned. I got the same codes again. I take this to mean the the solenoids are not the problem at this point. I've been driving the car around for the past couple days to try to give it a chance to throw some additional codes to help me troubleshoot. It's seems to take more cranks to start than it did prior to all this and it idles a little rough. But driving down the highway it feels normal. I'm off work tommorow, so I'm gonna rescan, start taking a close look at the wiring that goes to the valve adjusters and cam position sensors (for any damage or anything that looks suspect really) and also take a look at the timing marks you referenced in post 159. I have installed both cam blocks and the crank pin every time I have had it torn apart, but never verified those marks while I had it in that state. I may go ahead and swap the cam position sensors (again) to verify the codes don't change to the other side also.
QUOTE=turbo97se;24878372]It's a little difficult for me to follow exactly what you did. Take a look at my posts on page 15 and especially page 16 (post 159) on this thread (I couldn't remember where I posted before otherwise I would have shared this link with you earlier):
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...861500/page15/
1. Did you do a before and after swapping scan? Always do a before scan so you know what baseline is and can pinpoint the issue better.
2. Do you have new codes?
3. Would suggest you check the exhaust ones again. If you check my post, the exhaust one was the issue. In swapping the intake ones, it is possible that dirt got onto your intake bank 2 solenoid and messed it up, but it is difficult to know if that is what happened unless you scanned before swapping. If your timing marks are all lined up and good, then it is more than likely that one or more of the solenoid valves are bad. Electroshocking them has limited effect. The swap test is the most effective in diagnosing with more certainty in this case.
[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]
QUOTE=turbo97se;24878372]It's a little difficult for me to follow exactly what you did. Take a look at my posts on page 15 and especially page 16 (post 159) on this thread (I couldn't remember where I posted before otherwise I would have shared this link with you earlier):
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...861500/page15/
1. Did you do a before and after swapping scan? Always do a before scan so you know what baseline is and can pinpoint the issue better.
2. Do you have new codes?
3. Would suggest you check the exhaust ones again. If you check my post, the exhaust one was the issue. In swapping the intake ones, it is possible that dirt got onto your intake bank 2 solenoid and messed it up, but it is difficult to know if that is what happened unless you scanned before swapping. If your timing marks are all lined up and good, then it is more than likely that one or more of the solenoid valves are bad. Electroshocking them has limited effect. The swap test is the most effective in diagnosing with more certainty in this case.
[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]
01-22-2017, 05:33 AM
#247
Figured it out.
Finally got this figured out and forgot to post about it, so here goes. I had two problems actually. I found that one of my valve adjusters had a piece of filter screen jamming it up. I had them all out several times before the screen piece moved down enough for me to see it. I thought that was my whole problem at first. But I still had the codes for cam position sensor. At this point, I'd had the timing blocks in place several times and they always both went in, but the drivers side always had a little resistance on the bolts when screwing them in. So I tore it back down and loosened the bolts on the cam phasers for drivers side. I then manually wiggled the drivers side cams around until the timing block bolts screwed down with absolutely zero resistance. I couldn't have moved either one more than the equivalent of a quarter tooth on the phasers, but that was it. It was out of time on the drivers side a miniscule amount, but it was enough to throw codes and run a little weird. Since this, no check engine light and she's running like a champ. And most importantly, my wife is happy again! She missed her car while I was troubleshooting.
02-12-2017, 08:00 AM
#248
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Join Date: Feb 2017
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I've performed the procedures as described in the DIY above and I've watched a couple of related videos on YouTube (e.g. Edge Motors). Unfortunately, I've been having problems with the chain skipping when I do an engine rotation. Upon some advise from Edge Motors YouTube, I've removed the brand new tensions, removed the pin and now want to confirm the hydraulic cylinder is fully extending. In the link below I posted a picture of the tensioner. Should only the center part of the hydraulic piston cylinder extend out or should both the inner and outer portion the hydraulic cylinder extend out? Currently only the inner portion comes out. Is that how the tensioner is designed to function? I put a picture of old piston there as well so you can see how the body of the cylinder has an inner and outer wall.
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...2859144/page5/#
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...2859144/page5/#
