09-07-2016, 03:03 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Audi A6 C6 How to Replace Upper Timing Chain Tensioners<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
DIY - A6 3.2 Upper Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement
04-23-2017, 03:55 AM
#252
AudiWorld Newcomer
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I hate to hijack this thread but I really need some help on this issue. Could someone take a look at this post for me.
FYI the car only idles a little rough at idle 1000rpm is smooth. No noise from timing chain.
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/3-2...-pics-2918865/
Thank you!!
FYI the car only idles a little rough at idle 1000rpm is smooth. No noise from timing chain.
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/3-2...-pics-2918865/
Thank you!!
06-30-2017, 05:49 PM
#253
AudiWorld Junior Member
Bent Valves?
I have gotten to the point of rotating the engine clockwise to align the cam shafts to insert the tool to locking them. The motor was rotating with little resistance until a certain point. Now it doesn't want to turn at all. I did remove the sparks as well. Do I have to assume that I have bent valves at this point and need to pull the head off? If so, can someone point me to a good thread on how to remove the driver's side? I believe it's the driver's side as I did a compression test before starting this project and it was getting very low results. Any help or insight is greatly appreciated as this is the first Audi I have worked on.
07-30-2017, 07:58 AM
#254
AudiWorld Newcomer
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks everyone for help and information. I had the short diesel sound on startup (failing hydraulic piston I believe) on passenger side (bank1) for a couple of months. In last week had noticeable loss of power. Was dreading this repair given all the issues several people had. I really should have not worried. I found the initial instructions to be completely on the mark.
I did not use the crank locking tool as the driver side cam lock would prohibit the turning of crank though the chain mechanism.
Plastic rails had mostly disintegrated with debris in lower part of timing housing. This I carefully removed by hand and vacuum.
Will be dropping the oil pan this week to remove debris I'm assuming is down there.
Passenger side was maybe a half tooth out of time(5-10 degrees ?) from drivers but symmetrical. I simply disconnected the cam adjusters and physically turned the cams back the small difference and locked to match drivers side.
I then installed new tensioner and cam adjusters finger tight then pulled pin. Then used torque wrench to spec. Did apply oil to the chain and sprockets just because.
Turned by hand 720 degrees on the cams and rechecked with cam locks and had perfect allignment.
Closed everything up and crossed fingers. Turned ignition and all was well. Half second of noise until oil pressure was achieved.
Cars runs great.
I may have been lucky on nothing being damaged before starting but I followed the initial post in every detail and all went well.
Took about 4 hours and if did again would be a bit less. Saved some serious money so thanks again everyone.
I did not use the crank locking tool as the driver side cam lock would prohibit the turning of crank though the chain mechanism.
Plastic rails had mostly disintegrated with debris in lower part of timing housing. This I carefully removed by hand and vacuum.
Will be dropping the oil pan this week to remove debris I'm assuming is down there.
Passenger side was maybe a half tooth out of time(5-10 degrees ?) from drivers but symmetrical. I simply disconnected the cam adjusters and physically turned the cams back the small difference and locked to match drivers side.
I then installed new tensioner and cam adjusters finger tight then pulled pin. Then used torque wrench to spec. Did apply oil to the chain and sprockets just because.
Turned by hand 720 degrees on the cams and rechecked with cam locks and had perfect allignment.
Closed everything up and crossed fingers. Turned ignition and all was well. Half second of noise until oil pressure was achieved.
Cars runs great.
I may have been lucky on nothing being damaged before starting but I followed the initial post in every detail and all went well.
Took about 4 hours and if did again would be a bit less. Saved some serious money so thanks again everyone.
07-30-2017, 06:09 PM
#255
Audiworld Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great thread- lots of really good tangents and collective wisdom.
My additions: I have a B7 A4. I was daunted by the crank pin access, but found that on my car, on 1 jackstand, wheel and undertray off and sway brackets dropped, it was pretty straightforward.
The timing cover fasteners, on the other hand, were at least as bad as others indicated. My advice: you are saving thousands of dollars on this job. Spend a few bucks to save hours, too. After using a 1/4 conventional socket to unsuccessfully hold bits on disassembly, I went on a spree before I had to put it together.
3/8" socket to 1/4" bit.
You can go cheap on something similar, but I felt good using German engineering. It worked very well, opening up my full library of 3/8" drive extensions and ratchets with the torx bits above.
HF T-drive. The extra articulation mostly just got in the way, but helped a skosh here and there, before it gave me a brutal pinch. Straighten it out,
though, and cinch up all 24 cam cover t30s like a Joest team pro.
Take lots of hose and wire routing pix before you start. I throw unmissable lime green painter's tape labels on both sides of everything I disconnect.
The RTV is a huge pain. After one abortive attempt. I practiced the slide-and-roll-in motion like Mr Miyagi was standing over me, then only applied sealant to the parts I was sure I couldn't reach. Once I had it in ( and cleaned off the goo that still ended up getting dragged onto the wrong places-grr ) , I started threads in the two lowest holes to hold the cover, then finished the bead around the top section in place before setting it onto the mating surface.
OK, so now to my problem. When I started the job, I was very pleased to find no evidence of broken guides, or any other damage, and the timing tools went right into place. Just one floppy tensioner to explain the box-of-rocks noise, but no evidence of a skipped tooth. On my first start after buttoning up, though, I get block 93 readings like this:
In1: -4.1 In2: .4 Ex1: 14.3 Ex2: 1.9
I don't have before readings, but I remember noticing one cam consistently at about 4 when I first got the vag-com. Nothing like 14! So I break the cam covers, set the pin, and am pleased yet befuddled to find the cam bridges go right together. That means the static timing is good, right? So I button it up, hoping I had a loose sensor connector the first time.
In1: -4.1 In2: .4 Ex1: 12.1 Ex2: 1.5
Better, but not shiny. Drive it half a block, and, in addition to implausible cam position faults and bank one misfires, I get:
Exhaust Cam Adjustment Valve 1 (N318)
P1050 - 009 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Exhaust Cam Adjustment Valve 2 (N318)
P1054 - 009 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
So I grab some dinner, and swap the actuators side to side. ( I used a pick to loosen the grit and drowned the recesses in brakleen. )New results:
In1: -4.5 In2: .4 Ex1: 28.9 Ex2: 1.9
Gaaaa! The actuators had 2005 build dates on them, so I don't mind throwing that money at the problem, but it seems there's something else going on here. I checked my pix looking for sensor connectors I might have flip flopped, but it doesn't seem likely. Li'l help?
My additions: I have a B7 A4. I was daunted by the crank pin access, but found that on my car, on 1 jackstand, wheel and undertray off and sway brackets dropped, it was pretty straightforward.
The timing cover fasteners, on the other hand, were at least as bad as others indicated. My advice: you are saving thousands of dollars on this job. Spend a few bucks to save hours, too. After using a 1/4 conventional socket to unsuccessfully hold bits on disassembly, I went on a spree before I had to put it together.
3/8" socket to 1/4" bit.
You can go cheap on something similar, but I felt good using German engineering. It worked very well, opening up my full library of 3/8" drive extensions and ratchets with the torx bits above.
HF T-drive. The extra articulation mostly just got in the way, but helped a skosh here and there, before it gave me a brutal pinch. Straighten it out,
though, and cinch up all 24 cam cover t30s like a Joest team pro.
Take lots of hose and wire routing pix before you start. I throw unmissable lime green painter's tape labels on both sides of everything I disconnect.
The RTV is a huge pain. After one abortive attempt. I practiced the slide-and-roll-in motion like Mr Miyagi was standing over me, then only applied sealant to the parts I was sure I couldn't reach. Once I had it in ( and cleaned off the goo that still ended up getting dragged onto the wrong places-grr ) , I started threads in the two lowest holes to hold the cover, then finished the bead around the top section in place before setting it onto the mating surface.
OK, so now to my problem. When I started the job, I was very pleased to find no evidence of broken guides, or any other damage, and the timing tools went right into place. Just one floppy tensioner to explain the box-of-rocks noise, but no evidence of a skipped tooth. On my first start after buttoning up, though, I get block 93 readings like this:
In1: -4.1 In2: .4 Ex1: 14.3 Ex2: 1.9
I don't have before readings, but I remember noticing one cam consistently at about 4 when I first got the vag-com. Nothing like 14! So I break the cam covers, set the pin, and am pleased yet befuddled to find the cam bridges go right together. That means the static timing is good, right? So I button it up, hoping I had a loose sensor connector the first time.
In1: -4.1 In2: .4 Ex1: 12.1 Ex2: 1.5
Better, but not shiny. Drive it half a block, and, in addition to implausible cam position faults and bank one misfires, I get:
Exhaust Cam Adjustment Valve 1 (N318)
P1050 - 009 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Exhaust Cam Adjustment Valve 2 (N318)
P1054 - 009 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
So I grab some dinner, and swap the actuators side to side. ( I used a pick to loosen the grit and drowned the recesses in brakleen. )New results:
In1: -4.5 In2: .4 Ex1: 28.9 Ex2: 1.9
Gaaaa! The actuators had 2005 build dates on them, so I don't mind throwing that money at the problem, but it seems there's something else going on here. I checked my pix looking for sensor connectors I might have flip flopped, but it doesn't seem likely. Li'l help?
07-31-2017, 05:11 AM
#256
Audiworld Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The tip post.
Great thread- lots of really good tangents and collective wisdom.
My additions: I have a B7 A4. I was daunted by the crank pin access, but found that on my car, on 1 jackstand, wheel and undertray off and sway brackets dropped, it was pretty straightforward.
The timing cover fasteners, on the other hand, were at least as bad as others indicated. My advice: you are saving thousands of dollars on this job. Spend a few bucks to save hours, too. After using a 1/4 conventional socket to unsuccessfully hold bits on disassembly, I went on a spree before I had to put it together.
3/8" socket to 1/4" bit.
You can go cheap on something similar, but I felt good using German engineering. It worked very well, opening up my full library of 3/8" drive extensions and ratchets with the torx bits above.
HF T-drive. The extra articulation mostly just got in the way, but helped a skosh here and there, before it gave me a brutal pinch. Straighten it out,
though, and cinch up all 24 cam cover t30s like a Joest team pro.
Take lots of hose and wire routing pix before you start. I throw unmissable lime green painter's tape labels on both sides of everything I disconnect.
The RTV is a huge pain. After one abortive attempt. I practiced the slide-and-roll-in motion like Mr Miyagi was standing over me, then only applied sealant to the parts I was sure I couldn't reach. Once I had it in ( and cleaned off the goo that still ended up getting dragged onto the wrong places-grr ) , I started threads in the two lowest holes to hold the cover, then finished the bead around the top section in place before setting it onto the mating surface.
Great thread- lots of really good tangents and collective wisdom.
My additions: I have a B7 A4. I was daunted by the crank pin access, but found that on my car, on 1 jackstand, wheel and undertray off and sway brackets dropped, it was pretty straightforward.
The timing cover fasteners, on the other hand, were at least as bad as others indicated. My advice: you are saving thousands of dollars on this job. Spend a few bucks to save hours, too. After using a 1/4 conventional socket to unsuccessfully hold bits on disassembly, I went on a spree before I had to put it together.
3/8" socket to 1/4" bit.
You can go cheap on something similar, but I felt good using German engineering. It worked very well, opening up my full library of 3/8" drive extensions and ratchets with the torx bits above.
HF T-drive. The extra articulation mostly just got in the way, but helped a skosh here and there, before it gave me a brutal pinch. Straighten it out,
though, and cinch up all 24 cam cover t30s like a Joest team pro.
Take lots of hose and wire routing pix before you start. I throw unmissable lime green painter's tape labels on both sides of everything I disconnect.
The RTV is a huge pain. After one abortive attempt. I practiced the slide-and-roll-in motion like Mr Miyagi was standing over me, then only applied sealant to the parts I was sure I couldn't reach. Once I had it in ( and cleaned off the goo that still ended up getting dragged onto the wrong places-grr ) , I started threads in the two lowest holes to hold the cover, then finished the bead around the top section in place before setting it onto the mating surface.
07-31-2017, 06:54 AM
#257
Audiworld Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had a longer post but it went to noob moderation, so I'll keep this short. Did job due to noise on bank 1. No guide damage, all timing tools installed OK, and again after tensioner installed and rotated crank twice. Block 93 shows 14° phase on Bank 1 exhaust cam. Broke covers off, but all timing gear ( incl crank pin) again goes right in. Buttoned up, now showing 12°. Swapped actuator solenoids bank to bank, now shows 29° on exhaust cam 1! Thoughts?
08-01-2017, 07:41 AM
#258
Audiworld Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ordered and waiting on a new actuator solenoid and cam sensor to play with in different spots, but this morning I had to move the car due to street paving and got -4.x readings on both intake and exhaust for bank 1. I want to be happy, but feel I'm not out of the woods yet.
08-08-2017, 02:28 PM
#259
Looking over this Great post. I have been getting some codes (P2543 and P1139) and the dealer says I may have a stretched timing chain on bank 2. I find it hard to believe as my car runs fine. Anyway, here are my 093 values.
18:28:49 Group 093: Camshaft Adjustment (Adaption Values)
0.4°KW Phase Position Intake Bank 1
5.3°KW Phase Position Intake Bank 2
1.1°KW Phase Position Exhaust Bank 1
3.0°KW Phase Position Exhaust Bank 2
I have a new tank fuel pump coming but if that doesn't fix the codes I may tackle the tensioner replacement.
Does someone have a documented Maximum Allowable Phase Postition?
Thanks,
18:28:49 Group 093: Camshaft Adjustment (Adaption Values)
0.4°KW Phase Position Intake Bank 1
5.3°KW Phase Position Intake Bank 2
1.1°KW Phase Position Exhaust Bank 1
3.0°KW Phase Position Exhaust Bank 2
I have a new tank fuel pump coming but if that doesn't fix the codes I may tackle the tensioner replacement.
Does someone have a documented Maximum Allowable Phase Postition?
Thanks,
