mkongsiri

That's not a definitive answer as the fuel pump may be pressurizing your fuel lines (so you may see fuel spraying out) but fuel may not be exiting the injectors. Vagcom should tell you if there's a missing/defective triggering signal for the fuel system.

A6Riddler

Hello - Sorry about the delay in getting back to you all- The battery was flat and needed charging and then back to work ..

Any way reconnected the battery and run the scan before anything was tried - as attached, then tried to start the car 4 times and then re-scanned as attached.

Still no joy in firing up so hopefully the scans will mean more to you than me ...

Regards...

After Starting.txt

Before Starting.txt

mkongsiri

18965 - Ignition Switch; Run/Start Position Circuit
P2533 - 000 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00010001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 0
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0

Well, that could be it. I'm sure there are others on this forum that have more experience with Vagcom codes than me. If there's a fault with the ignition that would cause this.

But, something similar happened to my car a few weeks ago. I jumped in the car and it would turn over but not run. The central warning indicator panel would not light up, but the steering wheel was unlocking and the car would turn over. I called the dealer as I had just the ACC\Authorization module replaced and was going to have it towed in as I thought it had failed again. I went to take my bike rack off the trunk and noticed it had been left ajar all night and had dishacrged the battery but not completely. So just for sh@ts and giggles, I undid the ground strap on the battery for about a minute and reconnected it. Central indicator lit up and the car started right up. Couldn't hurt to charge your battery up and give that a try.

A6Riddler

Yes the battery was my thoughts too - But it has been on charge over night, out of the car and was showing full on the internal better meter. It had only been back in the car 2 mins before starting the test.

The car seams to struggle to turn over after about 4/5 attempts, but if left for couple of mins it's ok again, but it's away's been like this especially in the cold (UK cold that is)....

mkongsiri

Try clearing the codes ( I think on the engine you have to specifically go into that module and clear it from there) and try cranking it again. Then pull the codes again and post them. That way any intermittent codes are cleared and we can see the persistent ones. My brother lives in Walton on Thames and I was in Ireland last month, I understand your pain ;-)

A6Riddler

Hi -
New scans attached - although the after starting scan now shows loads of errors but this could be due to it draining the battery, which now appears to be another problem...

Thanks...

Codes Cleared Log-WAUZZZ4F75N031804-189810km-117942mi.txt

After Start Fail Log-WAUZZZ4F75N031804-189810km-117942mi.txt

mkongsiri

Yea, you've got a ton of voltage issues any of which can be causing you problems. Take a voltmeter to your battery and see if you're getting 12.6v or higher. Sounds like your battery maybe wonky and it's time for a new one. Can you attach charger to your car while clearing/pulling codes? Do you have another vehicle you can attach jumper cables to and try starting it with it attached? Even though the dash battery indicator may show you're getting 12volts, the draw from the starter is probably dropping the voltage.

A6Riddler

Hi -

Yes the battery appears to be faulty too - the standing voltage is 11.6V but when i try to start it is drops to 4.3V and then slowly goes back up to about 11.

Tried another car attached with jump leads and still won't start, so I guess the battery even though faulty is not the cause of the none starting issue.

mkongsiri

Well, my thought is to replace the battery. 11 volts isnt going to cut it and it needs to be replaced in any case. Yes it should start being jumped but these cars are very temperamental in regards to batteries and voltage. My intuition is your no start condition is not from a electromechanical failure but related to these power issues. I think you need to eliminate this as a possible point of failure. If you can swing a 3.2 liter engine with petrol at 1.50 euro/liter, you can get a battery ;-)

Clevercrow

Ok guys still trying to install the crank locking pin. Is this something I do from the top of the engine or do I have to get to it from under the vehicle? Just having trouble locating the darn thing