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After failing to light up my MMI I found that fluid from my rear wiper hose is leaking over my amp (it was pouring.) The MII now show only the logo, and after few second goes dark. I run the test today and got the following results (see below). What confuses me is the CAN Gateway? Where is that and is it possible that the failure is CAN Gateway and not the Amp?
scan
Controller Electrical Optical
19-CAN Gateway OK ERROR
07-Control Head(High/D3) OK OK
0E-Media Player 1 OK OK
77-Telephone OK OK
47-Sound System ERROR ERROR
67-Voice Control ERROR ERROR
56-Radio ERROR ERROR
37-Navigation ERROR ERROR
0F-Digital Radio ERROR ERROR
Check your fuses. I had the same error - audi logo for a few seconds and then screen went blank. In my case a 5 amp near the toolbox in the trunk was out. The VCDS scan result was exactly the same as yours.
If fuses are fine, you should remove devices from the optical circuit bus and see which particular unit is causing the optical bus to fail.
CAR IN - RADIO IN - RADIO OUT - NAV IN - NAVOUT - CAR OUT
For example, connect CAR IN to CAR OUT and see if that works; if it does then bypass radio and test .... etc
am_ver good point. I will try to use your method to detect the open circuit because fuses are checked and they are all okay.
BTW, where can I find the fuse list for the rear box (trunk)? Only fuse list that I have for the trunk fuse box is from the manual. That is okay, but I would rather trust the list that is printed on the fuse box, closing lid or similar.
Check your fuses and if they are ok, go at the nearest dealer and get an optical loop. It around 40$ canadian. With this part, you can remove a component from the loop in your car and plug this insted to keep the loop intact. Put the inition on. If your screen come on and you have all the fonction back, the component you just remove is fried. As you show us in the picture, start with the amplifier. I had the same problem as you 2 year ago and my amplifier was fried. Good luck.
I checked the fuses and run the test again. Although, there were all okay, some of them were arranged in reverse order?! Now, it is obvious that amp is fried. Today, I will look for an optical loop to get at least some functions of the MMI (thanks life4sk8!).
The amp is on its way to Paulison Service Corp. NJ. They are fixing amps for $360 flat fee, and offer free diagnostic. I cleaned the board but that is not enough. If a microchip is fried that would be job for an experienced technician.
After repairing the amp I lost the right channel. Reason: the software was updated during the corrosion cleanup. Now the dealership is asking $300 for coding. Huh... I'm still shopping around for the best deal. Let me know if you know someone; I live in the SF bay area.
Anyhow, I've attached few photos that explains what caused the issue. It was a broken rear wiper washer hose. What was interesting is that it was already repaired but attached too high. That caused another crack. Easy fix is to lower the fixing point of the zip tie, make enough room for hose to bend, and protect it with additional hard rubber sleeve from the sharp hinge.
Fell free to follow the instructions on how to access the broken washer hose in case you don't want to follow my steps and remove the entire back door trimming unnecessary instead of just two small interior trims. It shouldn't take you more than 15min and few crews (I believe I used T20, and T30...)
When you change the amp, a component protection kick in. The amp don't reconize the car. It is a kind of anti-thief protection. When I did mine, same as you, i lost all the right channel and the base. When I use the bluethoot, i could hear the people I was calling but they couldn't hear me. And the vocal command doesn't work. The dealer have to plug is computer on it to remove it. It take around 30 to 40 m. They charge me 75$ for this. After this operation, everything came back to normal.
06-11-2015, 02:10 PM
MMI Failed or Not? See the Photo. A6, C6
