audifsi3.2

What is the most common problem on this type car., what is weakness, Is the alu block engine a problem? My have gone 150.000 km (98 t miles)
I have change Oil. Filter/ pollen, air filter. Sparks ngk. I have read the art of 55 k service. The X owner have take 5 service total in 9 years. Long life. Is it recomend oil filter change every 15.000 km? I was at tectyl, tuff kote rost, karosseri controll, and was minimale korosion, but i will them to treat all under. Also many say Lifetime oil transmission is not Lifetime, and must/.need to flush this incl converter. But Audi say after i can get metal spoon problem? Lamells 6.can be shocked" if new trans oil. Can i use Bosch Fuel pump? Where is the Great best shop at net for Audi parts? Sorry for my not top English. But im like mye that 😊

put3namo

Carbon Buildups on the intake valves and ports

KevinGary

Timing chain tensioners and guides, along with the torque converter

huffy15

Most engine parts doesn't come factory with gasket. Instead they use silicone and it tend to fail over time when you live in cold area. Valve cover will likely leak along with the oil filter housing. That's one of the best engine Audi made used in a3,a4,a5,a6,tt,q5. It also vibrate a little bit when you're on D at a red light.

You better get the bentley manual along with vcds to repair your car yourself if you're not willing to pay a lot at the dealer.

Most gasket are very cheap and parts can be found online at great price.

audifsi3.2

where is the link,post for this problem, and is it possible that engine can run 100k and never had symptoms?

audifsi3.2

[QUOTE=huffy15;24576150]Most engine parts doesn't come factory with gasket. Instead they use silicone and it tend to fail over time when you live in cold area. Valve cover will likely leak along with the oil filter housing. That's one of the best engine Audi made used in a3,a4,a5,a6,tt,q5. It also vibrate a little bit when you're on D at a red light.

Is this engine better than 2.0 tfsi 170 ps ? I had big problem with that Audi engine. And 2.0 tdi 140ps mlt A6. 2008.mod, Turbo goes to .. after 5 k and again 15k. I will never have Diesel again. And Quattro was the reason of why i buy 3.2 fsi. It is Only 180 cars deliveri/ sold in Norway between 2004-2005. Reason was 256 ps and Co2 component/ combination dubbel price, Tax. Can some tell me the symptoms when carbon Buildup is problem? Is STP only bad on this engine, Would 98 okt super be better for the valves mani, cams?

You better get the bentley manual along with vcds to repair your car yourself if you're not willing to pay a lot at the dealer.

huffy15

There's some carbon build up in the 3.2 fsi. I dont how you drive your car but I dont rev my A6 a lot. I rarely go over 3k rpm and I dont have a lot of carbon. It's not that complicated anyway to clean.

On the other hand, the 2.0t from 2005 to 2012 on all model consume a lot of oil and is not as reliable as the 1.8t, 1.8tfsi

put3namo

there are several post link to Carbon Build up with the Direct Fuel Injection Engines like our 3.2 FSIs, you can start searching this forum or use google service, here are some popular links >>>>

http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=direct+inje...carbon+buildup

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-up-Megathread

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...arbon+cleaning

raj99

Actually not revving your car and not pushing higher RPMs is not good for removing carbon and in fact will create more carbon build-up!

One of the ways that is identified to removing carbon in a direct injection engine is giving it an <i> Italian tune-up</i>; essentially where the engine is run at full load for extended periods in order to burn carbon buildup. So you have an excuse for a track-day or two

Also, the only way you know if you have carbon, is by taking off your manifold, so it would be near impossible to tell the extent of the carbon build-up you have. The simple fact is that all direct injection engines (what Audi calls FSI) will have carbon build-up and things that have a direct impact on carbon deposits are:

- Fuel quality: The crappier the fuel, the more impurities and the more likely there are to be deposits to collect - go to http://www.toptiergas.com/ for more info
- Driving distance/engine temps: Those hit hardest are short distance driving, where the engine never gets up to temp. Getting the engine hot means that the gunk won’t be able to collect as readily, because it’s baked off by the high temps.
- Poor seating of the cylinder rings: More oil seeps by into the fuel adding to the large amounts of particles recirculated into the intakes. Use of more than 1Qt of oil every 5K miles means higher than average oil consumption usually meaning poorly seated rings, causing excessive blow-by

So all C6 3.2 engines are DI (Audi calls it FSI), they are the first OEM to make ALL their engines this way. DI is really great for making the fuel/air mix ratios and concentrations perfect, it takes less fuel to make the right mix with DI, it takes less fuel to get the same power using DI, and it can also fight knock (pre-ignition, which harms engines) since every injector can operate independently – allowing the ECU to control the fuel to every cylinder individually. It is also used if the engine gets too hot and the coolant cannot keep up by purposefully putting extra fuel in which will evaporate harmlessly but take heat with it. Here comes the con(s).

Non-DI engines have the injectors in the intake channels, and spray the intake valve’s backing as it opens into the cylinder. This happens with each intake stroke, “washing” the intake valve with fuel. You have, I am sure, seen the Chevron with Techron and like commercials about it having additives which keep valves clean. This is great for NON-DI engines. Why the valves need cleaning is due to 1970’s legislation to handle pollution. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) are 2 things required by law in the US (and many other countries) to prevent pollution. EGR pipes unburned fuel and particles in the exhaust, back into the crankcase to prevent catalytic convertor congestion and failure (things like unburned fuel, impurities in the fuel, water vapor, CO2, and oil). PCV takes crankcase vapors (mainly just oil particles and the EGR stuff) which is under pressure and pre-1970’s was just vented to the atmosphere, but now is redirected through a valve system which has a rough collection system that attempts to pull the largest particles from the air in this, and separate them out and allow them to drip down into the oil filter to be collected (if bad) or allowed to be cleaned and returned to the oil pan for engine lubrication – the particles too small to collect are mixed with fresh air coming into the engine just above the intake valves and shot back into the engine to attempt to re-burn them properly.

As you can imagine, the particles will collect on all parts of the intake, turning into sludge eventually and oozing into the intake, where it eventually is burned away during combustion. The problem happens with DI engines – the injectors shoot fuel DIRECTLY into the cylinders and don’t wash this gunk off the back of the intake valves. As such the gunk builds up here but since it’s so close to the cylinder, the heat bakes the gunk into carbon deposits which build up slowly over time. These deposits eventually become so heavy that they affect the airflow into the cylinders, making them move in unexpected patterns, or in very bad cases, not enough air is pulled in as the ECU is expecting, either way the result is too much fuel to the air ratio, or uneven mixing of the fuel, which robs engine power, can cause rough idle, and eventually cause Check Engine Lights (CEL’s) due to misfires (especially when the engine is cold). This causes a negative spiral, where the even higher amounts of unburned fuel due to the Carbon Build-up (CB) makes even more unburned fuel be re-circulated and these richer deposits speed the buildup on the backs of the valves further.

A few things are done by people to correct this.
- Carbon Cleaning – the top of the engine is pulled apart, intakes and valve covers are pulled, and the heads removed, then a Dremel or similar tool is used with a fine grain grinding bit are used to grind the carbon off the intake runners, the intake air flaps, and the backs of the valves. This is usually done around every 30K miles by those wanting to be sure they have the power and performance of the car unaffected.
- Catch Can – This is a 3rd party development, which partially bypasses the EPA mandated pollution measures mentioned above. It basically goes in-line with the recirculation of the gases before they hit the intake, comprising of a separate filter system that more aggressively captures and holds the particles the stock system doesn’t handle. The difference here is that the aftermarket solution doesn’t drop this into the oil, it holds it in the can, and you have a drain at the bottom where every 5-7K miles it needs emptying. Due to this being “bad stuff” from inside the engine, it cannot be disposed of easily, and is best poured into old oil containers and taken to a recycling place like Schuck’s or your local recycling transfer station, it’s mainly oil, water and fuel, so it can go into oil recycling.
- Methanol Injection – Typically referred to as “Meth” it’s been around a LOT longer than the illicit drug, and is basically a raw form of octane. What it’s used for is to both cool the incoming air (making it denser and therefore holds more oxygen for combustion) as well as boost the octane rating, which equates to more power. Methanol is mixed 50/50 with distilled water, and uses a special tank to hold it in, with its own pump and delivery system. The methanol is injected into the air intake around the throttle body, misting the incoming air. The methanol mist in the air cools it through evaporation, and since it’s a combustible liquid, it helps take place of the washing that non-DI engines get, by coating the backs of the valves and pulls the deposits into the fuel system rather than it baking and hardening there, as well as giving more horsepower and performance out of the car at the same time. Methanol is not very expensive, but is dangerous due to high octane and ability to burn, hence mixing 50/50. A typical use system will go through a small (1 liter) tank every 1-2 tanks of gas.

One of the things I didn’t mention (as it didn’t pertain to your car) is that Forced Induction (FI) engines are not as susceptible to this, the reason being the much higher compression and thus higher cylinder and valve temps if you do get it out and run it for at least 10-20 minutes at normal running temps.

FormulaElement

Do you have a source for the Italian tune-up removing carbon?? I've read that it doesn't create enough heat to actually remove carbon. Can't remember where though...

Anyways everyone should invest in a catch can for their FSI engine. It will save you a lot of money in the long run, just dispose of it legally...