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Pads and Rotor Replacement

Old 10-09-2015, 12:32 PM
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Default Pads and Rotor Replacement

I'm looking to do my first major project on the car since I have gotten it. I have an '08 S6 and the pad light just came on. I'm looking for what a good set of pads(w/sensors) and rotors are. Mid range would be good. I don't use the car for racing or constantly have it at high speeds. Looking for suggestions.

Also, I tried searching the forums for a step by step DIY on doing all 4 pads/rotors and couldn't find anything. Can someone point to a post where that's been explained if there is one?
Old 10-09-2015, 03:34 PM
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When I replaced my rear pads and rotors on my '06 A6 Avant I used Akebono pads and Zimmerman rotors, which are the OEM rotor.s For the front, I only changed the pads and used Pagid pads, but they have a lot more dust than the Akebono pads. Like you, I do not track or race my A6, so these pads/rotors work well for my driving style.
Old 10-10-2015, 05:47 AM
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I went with REDSTUFF and can't fault them.
Low dust and better braking than OEM.

Front brakes -

Rear brakes -

Last edited by royclark; 10-10-2015 at 05:53 AM.
Old 10-11-2015, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by stroker351w
I'm looking to do my first major project on the car since I have gotten it. I have an '08 S6 and the pad light just came on. I'm looking for what a good set of pads(w/sensors) and rotors are. Mid range would be good. I don't use the car for racing or constantly have it at high speeds. Looking for suggestions.

Also, I tried searching the forums for a step by step DIY on doing all 4 pads/rotors and couldn't find anything. Can someone point to a post where that's been explained if there is one?
I strictly use OEM pads.
Old 10-12-2015, 05:10 PM
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If you like the performance of original OEM pads, you will not like Akebonos. Bite sucks and stopping distances are longer. I wanted to reduce dust also, and put Akes on. Not happy.
Old 10-12-2015, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by occhis
If you like the performance of original OEM pads, you will not like Akebonos. Bite sucks and stopping distances are longer. I wanted to reduce dust also, and put Akes on. Not happy.
Then try REDSTUFF you won't fault them.
Low dust and better braking than OEM.
Old 10-13-2015, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by royclark
Then try REDSTUFF you won't fault them.
Low dust and better braking than OEM.
Not to start the long thread. But I had greenstuff and was really disappointed. It does not give "initial bite". It does not work well in cold weather - you need couple applications before the pads warm up. My understanding the "redstuff" is even worst - it designed for higher temperatures or "spirited driving" not for breaking on the first stop light on the frosty morning.
Old 10-15-2015, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by occhis
If you like the performance of original OEM pads, you will not like Akebonos. Bite sucks and stopping distances are longer. I wanted to reduce dust also, and put Akes on. Not happy.
I used Akebonos on our 2008 and find them to work very well. On my car, they feel close to OEM but not as grabby as the originals were. I guess everyone's mileage may vary.
Old 10-16-2015, 06:51 AM
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I did my brakes recently and see a couple of things that are missing in the vid's that I looked up further to figure out.

It is very likely that you don't need to remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle. When I was looking at the rear's, there was no tool in my arsenal to get the lower bolt out. FSM says you use a special VAG tool. I found another youtube vid where the guy literally took off the caliper and pivoted the rotor out of the bracket. Since we can do this on the rear...likely we can also do it up front.

I used R1Concepts premium rotors with their stoptec scorched cermanics and did not increase stopping distance. I retained the same great braking and the only thing I reduced was the stupid amount of dust that stock pads throw.

Win win in my book
Old 10-16-2015, 05:55 PM
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The caliper mounting bracket does NOT have to be removed in order to remove front rotors. Remove caliper, then remove rotor holding screw and angle the rotor from under the mounting bracket. Very close clearance, but it will come off.

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