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- Audi A6 C6 How to Replace Brake Pads Calipers Rotors<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
Rear brake pad change
03-21-2009, 02:45 PM
#11
Cat Herder
stay tuned...
05-09-2009, 09:33 AM
#12
A6 C6 Rear brake job
Used your thread as a guide to finish my brake job. Started last week, but couldn't figure out the piston retraction process. Did not buy the tool that you did, but used the Bentley procedure you described to manually retract the piston.
First disconnect the motor from the caliper which is held on by 2 torx 30 bolts. I did not disconnect electric harness. Pull motor apart from the caliper. Use torx 40 on the center of the back side of the caliper. Turn this clockwise until it stops. There is almost no resistance on this bolt. This can be done just with the fingers.
Now compress the piston with normal clamp type tool.
After installing the pads, I temporarily slid the caliper over the pads and turned the torx 40 bolt until the piston just began to catch the pads, then backed off a fraction of a turn.
Then slid the caliper back off and re-attached the motor to the back of the caliper. Re-install caliper and you're done.
I did not have any dash brake light come on as I expected might happen. Very happy about that.
Would not have been able to do it without your post. Thanks
First disconnect the motor from the caliper which is held on by 2 torx 30 bolts. I did not disconnect electric harness. Pull motor apart from the caliper. Use torx 40 on the center of the back side of the caliper. Turn this clockwise until it stops. There is almost no resistance on this bolt. This can be done just with the fingers.
Now compress the piston with normal clamp type tool.
After installing the pads, I temporarily slid the caliper over the pads and turned the torx 40 bolt until the piston just began to catch the pads, then backed off a fraction of a turn.
Then slid the caliper back off and re-attached the motor to the back of the caliper. Re-install caliper and you're done.
I did not have any dash brake light come on as I expected might happen. Very happy about that.
Would not have been able to do it without your post. Thanks
06-29-2010, 05:13 PM
#13
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Time for rear pads
Long time lurker, first time poster.
I did the rear brakes on my 2005 A6 this weekend. I did not buy the Vag-com tool as I really have no desire to change any settings or anything. Also, I do not have a laptop, so moving my home PC into the garage to change my f'in brakes really did not appeal to me. Plus, the vag-com was just too much coin $275 for the cheapest version.
Rather, I simply bought the tool from Mactools.com, part No. EPB101. It is about 1/3 the cost of the vag-com but is limited to brake jobs.
Also, I pretty much figured out that you can get the piston to withdraw without needing the Mactool or the vagcom. You can remove the motor from the caliper using a torx socket to remove the two bolts. Once removed, inserting the torx socket into the back of the caliper and turning clockwise will with allow you to compress the piston. You can see this proceedure in the Bently manual as it is what they tell you to do when rebuilding the piston seals...... see funny story below for the reason why I had to rebuild the caliper....
Now, since I had the resetting tool in hand, I can not tell what my little proceedure will do, after installing the new rotors/pads. Namely, I do not know if it the computer will recalibrate the motor to the new spacing and reset the error code. I suspect it will. However, if it does not, you should be able to hit the local autozone and have them reset the codes for you.... Also, I had the tool in had from mactools the day after I ordered it, I did not even pay for the fedex delivery, they just sent it that way.
So all told, I spent about $60 on the pads and $75 on the rotors both at genuineaudiparts.com, plus the $140 on the tool from mactools ===> $275, which is still a bunch less than the stealership wanted and now I can do them whenever I want......
My funny story about rebuilding the calipers....You've got to make sure you have NOT taken out the old pads before using the tool. When you plug this thing in, it sends a bunch of codes to the computer to see what kind of car it is dealing with. I had my calipers already off when I plugged it in because I tried to do the brakes without the tool and had not yet figured out the little torx trick I described above. In doing so, the tool caused the motor to index forward, obviously looking for the end point before retracting. With no resistance from the pads/rotors, the damn motor forced the piston right out of the caliper housing. Now my car was bleeding all over the place. Luckily none of the seals or boots were damaged, so I simply rebuilt the things. Boy was I pissed.
If you live in Connecticut and want to use the tool, send me a note offline....
I did the rear brakes on my 2005 A6 this weekend. I did not buy the Vag-com tool as I really have no desire to change any settings or anything. Also, I do not have a laptop, so moving my home PC into the garage to change my f'in brakes really did not appeal to me. Plus, the vag-com was just too much coin $275 for the cheapest version.
Rather, I simply bought the tool from Mactools.com, part No. EPB101. It is about 1/3 the cost of the vag-com but is limited to brake jobs.
Also, I pretty much figured out that you can get the piston to withdraw without needing the Mactool or the vagcom. You can remove the motor from the caliper using a torx socket to remove the two bolts. Once removed, inserting the torx socket into the back of the caliper and turning clockwise will with allow you to compress the piston. You can see this proceedure in the Bently manual as it is what they tell you to do when rebuilding the piston seals...... see funny story below for the reason why I had to rebuild the caliper....
Now, since I had the resetting tool in hand, I can not tell what my little proceedure will do, after installing the new rotors/pads. Namely, I do not know if it the computer will recalibrate the motor to the new spacing and reset the error code. I suspect it will. However, if it does not, you should be able to hit the local autozone and have them reset the codes for you.... Also, I had the tool in had from mactools the day after I ordered it, I did not even pay for the fedex delivery, they just sent it that way.
So all told, I spent about $60 on the pads and $75 on the rotors both at genuineaudiparts.com, plus the $140 on the tool from mactools ===> $275, which is still a bunch less than the stealership wanted and now I can do them whenever I want......
My funny story about rebuilding the calipers....You've got to make sure you have NOT taken out the old pads before using the tool. When you plug this thing in, it sends a bunch of codes to the computer to see what kind of car it is dealing with. I had my calipers already off when I plugged it in because I tried to do the brakes without the tool and had not yet figured out the little torx trick I described above. In doing so, the tool caused the motor to index forward, obviously looking for the end point before retracting. With no resistance from the pads/rotors, the damn motor forced the piston right out of the caliper housing. Now my car was bleeding all over the place. Luckily none of the seals or boots were damaged, so I simply rebuilt the things. Boy was I pissed.
If you live in Connecticut and want to use the tool, send me a note offline....
07-30-2010, 11:35 AM
#15
Could someone that has the Bentely manual for this vehicle post the actual procedure (as in copy/paste) for adjusting (without Vag-Com) the parking brake motor while doing a brake job. So far I've read 3 different versions of it on Audi forums. It would be great to have a sticky or "real" tutorial on doing brakes on the different models. Some of the posts have wrong or very vague info that could be dangerous and wastes a lot of time. Especially with brakes I think that the Mods and the more knowledgeable members should modify and update them to keep the info correct.
08-01-2010, 07:20 PM
#16
AudiWorld Super User
If you check out the Ross Tech site (www.Ross-Tech.com), they list the directions for performing the rear brake pad replacment. But you definately need to use VAG–COM or a VAG scanner to retract the parking brake fro replacing the pads. If you don't you'll end up replacing a lot more parts and paying a lot more $s than the VAG–COM will cost you.
08-02-2010, 09:36 AM
#17
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08-02-2010, 02:55 PM
#18
If you check out the Ross Tech site (www.Ross-Tech.com), they list the directions for performing the rear brake pad replacment. But you definately need to use VAG–COM or a VAG scanner to retract the parking brake fro replacing the pads. If you don't you'll end up replacing a lot more parts and paying a lot more $s than the VAG–COM will cost you.
08-02-2010, 08:12 PM
#19
AudiWorld Super User
Here is a "cut and paste" from the Bentley...
I could upload the images, but you'll get the basics. Notice that it clearly states to use VAS 5051 diagnostic system for replacing pads.
================================================== ==============
Audi > C6 > 2005-2007
Brake System
46 - Removal and Installation.Rear Brake PadsSpecial tools, testers and auxiliary items required
Torque wrench V.A.G 1331
Torque wrench V.A.G 1332
Vehicle diagnostic, test and information system VAS 5051
Socket T40065
Socket T40066
Removing
Note:
* When removing, mark brake pads that will be used again. Install in the same position, otherwise braking effect will be uneven!
* Operating the electromechanical parking brake again after a long drive is recommended.
* Brake pad play is automatically adjusted every 1000 km if the EPB is not operated in this distance.
* The brake disc is secured with a Phillips head bolt.
* Raise vehicle.
* Remove wheels.
* With ignition off, connect Vehicle Diagnosis, Testing and Information System VAS 5051 to 16-pin diagnostic connector on vehicle and select parking brake with "Address word" 53.
Note:
* Ignition on
* Release parking brake
* Coding check and reported if necessary.
* DTC memory interrogated, errors shown corrected and DTC memory erased.
* Select function "53 - Parking brake" .
* Select function "04 - Basic setting" .
* Select function "10 to code after replacing control module" .
The request to enter a display group number appears in display field - 1 - .
An entry keypad is shown in display field - 2 - .
When installing new or old brake pads
Using entry keypad, enter in display field - 2 - the "7" for "Display group number one and confirm by pressing " Q button. (Reset pistons)
To exit entry template, press green Arrow button at lower left.
Note:
Ignition off
The brake disc is secured with a Phillips head bolt - 1 - .
Remove tires
Remove attachment bolts from brake caliper housing, to do so counter-hold guide pins.
Note:
Actuator or brake system connector must not be disconnected. (otherwise, a fault will be saved)
Do not pull on brake hose or electrical wiring.
* Remove brake caliper sideways or hang on body.
* Remove brake pads
* Remove guide clamps
* Press brake pistons back by hand.
Note:
To remove brake discs on 16" brake systems, brake carrier must be removed.
Check brake discs, replace if necessary.
Remove brake carrier:
* To remove brake carrier lower connection, use Socket T40065 for the left side and Socket T40066 for the right side.
Installing
* Clean brake caliper with mineral spirits exclusively.
* Insert brake pad retaining springs
* Insert brake pads.
* Make sure brake pads are located correctly in anti-rattle springs - arrows - .
Note:
The next step only applies to vehicles on which the brake carrier must be disassembled for removal.
* To install lower connection, use Socket T40065 or Socket T40066 .
* Secure brake caliper housing using new self-locking bolts.
Note:
The repair kit includes four self-locking hex bolts which must be installed in all cases.
* The request to enter a display group number appears in display field - 1 - .
* An entry keypad is shown in display field - 2 - .
* Using entry keypad, enter in display field - 2 - the "6" for "Display group number one and confirm by pressing " Q button. (guide pistons together)
* To exit entry template, press green Arrow button at lower left.
* Mounting wheels Wheel and Tire Guide - Repair Group 44
* Check brake fluid level, and fill if necessary.
================================================== ==============
Audi > C6 > 2005-2007
Brake System
46 - Removal and Installation.Rear Brake PadsSpecial tools, testers and auxiliary items required
Torque wrench V.A.G 1331
Torque wrench V.A.G 1332
Vehicle diagnostic, test and information system VAS 5051
Socket T40065
Socket T40066
Removing
Note:
* When removing, mark brake pads that will be used again. Install in the same position, otherwise braking effect will be uneven!
* Operating the electromechanical parking brake again after a long drive is recommended.
* Brake pad play is automatically adjusted every 1000 km if the EPB is not operated in this distance.
* The brake disc is secured with a Phillips head bolt.
* Raise vehicle.
* Remove wheels.
* With ignition off, connect Vehicle Diagnosis, Testing and Information System VAS 5051 to 16-pin diagnostic connector on vehicle and select parking brake with "Address word" 53.
Note:
* Ignition on
* Release parking brake
* Coding check and reported if necessary.
* DTC memory interrogated, errors shown corrected and DTC memory erased.
* Select function "53 - Parking brake" .
* Select function "04 - Basic setting" .
* Select function "10 to code after replacing control module" .
The request to enter a display group number appears in display field - 1 - .
An entry keypad is shown in display field - 2 - .
When installing new or old brake pads
Using entry keypad, enter in display field - 2 - the "7" for "Display group number one and confirm by pressing " Q button. (Reset pistons)
To exit entry template, press green Arrow button at lower left.
Note:
Ignition off
The brake disc is secured with a Phillips head bolt - 1 - .
Remove tires
Remove attachment bolts from brake caliper housing, to do so counter-hold guide pins.
Note:
Actuator or brake system connector must not be disconnected. (otherwise, a fault will be saved)
Do not pull on brake hose or electrical wiring.
* Remove brake caliper sideways or hang on body.
* Remove brake pads
* Remove guide clamps
* Press brake pistons back by hand.
Note:
To remove brake discs on 16" brake systems, brake carrier must be removed.
Check brake discs, replace if necessary.
Remove brake carrier:
* To remove brake carrier lower connection, use Socket T40065 for the left side and Socket T40066 for the right side.
Installing
* Clean brake caliper with mineral spirits exclusively.
* Insert brake pad retaining springs
* Insert brake pads.
* Make sure brake pads are located correctly in anti-rattle springs - arrows - .
Note:
The next step only applies to vehicles on which the brake carrier must be disassembled for removal.
* To install lower connection, use Socket T40065 or Socket T40066 .
* Secure brake caliper housing using new self-locking bolts.
Note:
The repair kit includes four self-locking hex bolts which must be installed in all cases.
* The request to enter a display group number appears in display field - 1 - .
* An entry keypad is shown in display field - 2 - .
* Using entry keypad, enter in display field - 2 - the "6" for "Display group number one and confirm by pressing " Q button. (guide pistons together)
* To exit entry template, press green Arrow button at lower left.
* Mounting wheels Wheel and Tire Guide - Repair Group 44
* Check brake fluid level, and fill if necessary.
08-03-2010, 05:55 AM
#20
This is the part of the OPs post that refrences the procedure that I was asking about in the manual...
"Also, I pretty much figured out that you can get the piston to withdraw without needing the Mactool or the vagcom. You can remove the motor from the caliper using a torx socket to remove the two bolts. Once removed, inserting the torx socket into the back of the caliper and turning clockwise will with allow you to compress the piston. You can see this proceedure in the Bently manual as it is what they tell you to do when rebuilding the piston seals......"
Again, are there any Audi Techs. on the forum that could chime in on this?
"Also, I pretty much figured out that you can get the piston to withdraw without needing the Mactool or the vagcom. You can remove the motor from the caliper using a torx socket to remove the two bolts. Once removed, inserting the torx socket into the back of the caliper and turning clockwise will with allow you to compress the piston. You can see this proceedure in the Bently manual as it is what they tell you to do when rebuilding the piston seals......"
Again, are there any Audi Techs. on the forum that could chime in on this?
