royclark

In UK we refer to the 'refreshed' models as Face lift models (FL = 09 - 11)

saifxnyc

Raj how did you change the puddle lights? The connector is extremely short and i don't want to try disconnecting it and then not able to clip it back on. Did you leave it in there and removed the plastic shielding covering the bulb and pop it out with a flat head screw driver. I am having difficulty with the puddle lights for the wires length being so short. And i think my front dome lights are different than yours mines do not have the garage home link and it seems like i can only pry it half way with the chrome trim and the middle frame coming out as well. Seems like i need to remove two screws but i tried and they wouldn't budge i did not want to strip them. The screws i mention in point are on page 6 of this ziza installation guide did you remove these screws as well? I am going to give it another try later on today
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxd...ew?usp=sharing
I can see the bulbs but they are at such a bad angle i can't take them out and put the new ones in. I will post picture of this in the morning finally going to be above freezing here going to wash all the snow and salt off the car from that storm we had this weekend. I won't lie i was having fun with the ESP off in the parking lots r

iaflyer

Yes, my dome lights were like yours. I have a 2010 Audi A6 (so Facelift version), Premium Plus trim level.

As for the puddle lights, yes, there isn't a lot of play with the wires. On two of mine, I had enough wire to pull them out and change the bulb. One of them I pulled the bulb assembly out by mistake, so now I need to remove the interior door trim to fix it. The last one, I knew how little wire I had so I was very careful - I was able to just pull it out about a centimeter, but it was enough to just get the plastic shield and replace the bulb.

When I replaced the front dome lights and reading lights, my trim came off easily too - no screw driver needed. If you read carefully, you'll see you don't actually have to remove the assembly, if you can contort yourself to get the "bayonet" lights out. Wasn't too hard. t just popped out the old "festoon" light and replaced them. The "bayonet" ones needed some needle nose pliers to remove them. Be gentle, make sure you grasping the metal, not the glass as the glass will break! (I managed to do it with one of mine!)

saifxnyc

damn this is tough i manged to needle nose the front dome assembly bayonet lights. They were a bit difficult but are do able like you said. Only one of my puddle light really sticked out that i could change it but on the rest of them i had to pop the bulb out using a flat head from the bottom end and put the led in hoping it will be a good fit in the prongs. Now the last light that i have to put in my car is the driver side rear passenger door. When i was taking the original bulb out i could see it had a issue with the prongs it would flicker upon touching and pushing back and forth. Once i managed to take the bulb out i was not able to see the LED working with my nimble hand i manage to disconnect the fixture from the door after 25 mins in the snow on my back lol wasn't fun but i was super pissed off at this point because like raj said where are the extra freaking 2 in we need to wiggle. I have no idea how i will be able to clip that connector back on... i need help i can get the door panel removed if necessary i have a guy

BlackR1ce

After installing the trunk led I have no light. I put the original bulb back in still no light. Before the light was working. Any ideas to what's going on?

saifxnyc

Check the prongs on the housing. I had the same issue and I think I am having the same issue with my last puddle light. Take the housing out and make sure the prongs are making contact with the bulb where they are supposed to. It should work fine after that. Good luck.

iaflyer

I had the same >exact< problem.

Just put the LED in, shut the trunk and come back later. I don't know if it's something to keep the battery level high, a timer or what but it shuts off like that. Next time I opened the trunk it was working. If it doesn't work, change the orientation of the LED 180 degrees and it should work then.

BlackR1ce

I left the led in over night and went to open the trunk this morning. Still no light. Also I noticed the led unit is totally different looking compare to the others. The rest have like a dark pcb and the one for the trunk the pcb is white. When I get off work I'll post pictures.

Thanks

Update:
I hooked the trunk led to the glove box plug and it turned with no problems. Not sure why it didn't work with the trunk plug but it's working now.
Thanks for all your helps.

raj99

I did change the puddle lights and read through my review. The issue on the rear door puddle lights is that the connector wiring is too short. In fact, I'm going to be pulling my interior door so that I can get access at the wiring directly to do the change. It's very hard to pull the existing bulb and replace it with the one in the kit...since you really want to do what I did with the front puddle lights, which is remove the entire module vs. just the bulb. It's FAR easier to work that way. However, in the rear puddle lights, if you remove the module you can't plug it back into the wiring because Audi engineers save 1 cent by saving 2" off wiring and not making it accessible

raj99

Hi folks, so I wanted to provide all of you an update and get your feedback on which footwell lighting to go with:

White, Red, or Blue?

I decided to change the existing LED lighting in the footwells and the process is identical to removing the module from the puddle lights. Simply insert a flat head on one end and pry and the entire module will come out, then you push into the connector to release it.

Once the light is out it will look like this:



The difference between the deAuto LED and the factory one is enormous...as you can see by the picture below...more SMDs and hence more lumens for illumination.
FWIW, the factory one is the Green module on the left.


The trick for removing the housing of the footwell module is by pushing on the black area I've shown in the arrows and then pulling up. Also, you can pry the opposite site up as well, but imho it put excessive force on the other side.



Inserting the new LED is rather straight-forward, however you may need to push the prongs up a bit with a flat head, once you snap shut the module.



Once you have the new LED in the module, you simply reattach the wiring harness and push it back in. Now perhaps you all can help me decide as to which looks the best.

Although I initially liked the white, I'm actually digging the blue as well

Red


Blue


White
As you can see, the difference between the factory and the deAuto LEDs is quite obvious.

Furthermore, the deAuto LEDs come on and off very nicely and just like factory have a soft transition.



And here's the final all-white setup, for now. I'm going to try it for a couple of days and then switch it. So lmk what you all think...