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Old 09-09-2016, 03:10 PM
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Timing chain noise

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Old 04-20-2016, 04:06 AM
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Thanks for the offer! & good luck on the change out! If you follow all the good guidance here, it should go real smooth!
Old 04-20-2016, 04:15 AM
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Where does the 8 degree "service limit" come from?
I understand that it is the deviation between the intake & exhaust cams on each bank.
I'm just wondering where the actual limit came from?

I didn't find anything in ELSA or Bentley about it.
I'm just wondering where this "prudent judgement" service limit came from.
Old 04-21-2016, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by LarryJa
Where does the 8 degree "service limit" come from?
I understand that it is the deviation between the intake & exhaust cams on each bank.
I'm just wondering where the actual limit came from?

I didn't find anything in ELSA or Bentley about it.
I'm just wondering where this "prudent judgement" service limit came from.
As I understand it, block 93 shows the deviation between each intake cam in relation to the crankshaft
Old 04-21-2016, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by LarryJa
Well, I got my VCDS block 93 readings today:

position I1 I2 E1 E2

Cold@idle 0.4 6.0 3.0 1.1

Hot@idle -0.4 5.6 2.3 0.8

Hot@3Krpm 0 6.0 2.6 1.1

That's the long & short of it. Not too bad, but not too good...
This gives me a baseline@153K miles. Bank 2 is not faring too well but, now, I can watch it.

I think the noises, that were originally concerning to me, were the engine's characteristic to speed up to an 1300rpm idle(in neutral) for a minute or two when cold, after it's running about 20 seconds. As soon as you put it into D or R, the electronics take it right back down to a 900rpm idle. On my car, 1300rpm cold idle is a lot noisier than 900rpm. That noise raised my cautious concerns.

Anyway, I'm going to start eBay shopping for the tools to change the top tensioners now, & monitor these readings. I can buy the tools, put them on a shop shelf, & be ready.
Post the values after you changed tensioners =)
I have almost same values as you.. They been so the whole time I owned the car since hmm.. 2008.. And the car had only 28000 miles... And no start up rattle so far.. =)
Cheers /H
Old 04-21-2016, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by hrc4u
Post the values after you changed tensioners =)
I have almost same values as you.. They been so the whole time I owned the car since hmm.. 2008.. And the car had only 28000 miles... And no start up rattle so far.. =)
Cheers /H
Your experience is relieving to me.
I have been trying to find out how fast the wear progresses & just where the 8 degree limit comes from.
I'm going to monitor my readings, to look for rate of charge & any acute jump, before I immediately change out the tensioners. However, I am going to gather all the physical & intellectual tools to do the job now. I'll put them on the shelf, in my shop, until it's time to do the job. It seems that I could always get new tensioners overnighted, but the tools could be a little tougher.
Old 04-27-2016, 02:11 AM
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I spoke with one fellow, earlier this week, whose '05 C6 4.2 upper tensioners wore out. He drove it until his deviations were over 12! He told me that took quite a while, as the car aged. He traded it in, limping, at 167k miles.
So, I'll continue monitoring mine, more closely as it pushes the service limit.
Old 05-05-2016, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by KevinGary
How long have you owned the car? Is it a new noise? If it is a new noise then the claim that they all make that noise is probably wrong. I agree with raj, post a clip so that we can hear the noise. I had the timing chain rattle on my 4.2 and I would not have described it as a squeal.
Timely thread. Within the last month, I've been getting a significant 'rattle' on cold start that lasts for maybe 1 second before the engine runs quiet and smooth. It is very noticeable in the cabin with doors and windows shut and is getting worse. Ironically, this started immediately after the rack blew (literally) while accelerating onto the highway. Just crossed 124k but this isn't sounding like a rack problem. I hear it more in the cabin than outside. Very odd.
Old 05-06-2016, 05:17 AM
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It sounds like the tensioners.
Get the engine scanned, & it'll tell you for sure.
There's a great thread on how to do the change out, if it's your upper tensioners.
About $500 to do the job yourself, w/OEM tensioners. About $1000-1500 to have them done, if it's just the upper ones.
Old 05-06-2016, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by LarryJa
It sounds like the tensioners.
Get the engine scanned, & it'll tell you for sure.
There's a great thread on how to do the change out, if it's your upper tensioners.
About $500 to do the job yourself, w/OEM tensioners. About $1000-1500 to have them done, if it's just the upper ones.
Well,

Address 01: Engine (4F1 910 559 E)

14:14:12 Group 093: Camshaft Adjustment (Adaption Values)
0.0°KW Phase Position Intake Bank 1
4.5°KW Phase Position Intake Bank 2
1.5°KW Phase Position Exhaust Bank 1
1.5°KW Phase Position Exhaust Bank 2

Local Audi will only do the whole job including chain - $9K. Not something I could tackle.
Old 05-06-2016, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ajg617
Well,

Address 01: Engine (4F1 910 559 E)

14:14:12 Group 093: Camshaft Adjustment (Adaption Values)
0.0°KW Phase Position Intake Bank 1
4.5°KW Phase Position Intake Bank 2
1.5°KW Phase Position Exhaust Bank 1
1.5°KW Phase Position Exhaust Bank 2

Local Audi will only do the whole job including chain - $9K. Not something I could tackle.

$9k ??!?!

I can swap a used and rebuilt motor for that price. Get another quote.


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