DreewMcK

So I tackled this as part of my carbon cleaning / 55K maintenance teardown.


I found the ELSAWIN instructions quite good but took some pics anyways and have a few pointers that will hopefully help the next newb. This was my first valve cover job and I really took my time with it.


Tools required (for valve - other tools required for first part - see 55K service and carbon cleaning threads):
T-30 socket - long and short
Small pryer tool








So I started by removing the air intake (half the box that houses the filter, the bits near the grille, and the duct that attaches to the throttle body. I don't have a good pic but the vacuum hose that was attached to the duct (the only one) was held on via zip tie so I cut it off and was able to easily pull it off.


Then I took out the two screws holding the wiring harness packs on. Then take off the coil packs. Some of them were tricky and I started at one end and worked my way down releasing them all first, since they only come off of one so much. Push the harness towards the pack, then push down on the release in the back and you should hear a click, then pull it off a little bit just so it wont re-engage the lock mechanism. Once they are all released you should be able to pull them all the way off at once.


I pulled the coil packs - I have small fingers so I slid them in and was able to pull up by hand. The tool looks great, or the screwdriver trick as mentioned in the 55K thread. You don't need to do the sparkplugs, though I would recommend it if you haven't done them in a while since you are here anyways.




Next take out the 12 bolts holding the valve cover on. I found I loosened them a lot, then they got to a point where it became hard to turn again, kept loosening and it got easy, then kept going for a bunch of turns.


Make sure they are all really loose and you can pull the bolt up a bit as well. Part of my problem was that although they appeared loose they were still catching when I tried to get the cover off.


Also remove any electrical connectors that will be in the way. The most obvious two are the ones that seem to be stick out of the valve covers.


On the passenger side my top front bolt was rusted very badly so I had to drill it. This was quite easy with an ez-out kit and it come out first try took about 2 minutes.
good bolt.jpg


On the drivers side the lower bolts in front of the brake unit was badly rusted and I ended up stripping it. Since it is very tight with the brake unit in there I had to go and buy a 90 degree drill attachment. I tried to drill it out but it didn't work. Then I went to go buy a little cut-off wheel for my rotary tool, to try and cut a slot into it to turn it out with a flat head.
I was very lucky that it was the bottom row, in a way, as the cover receeds on the bottom and sort of allows you to get a cut-off wheel in there. Some of the other rows the bolt is far too recessed. As you can see I had a tough time with the cutting. I tried a screw driver a bunch of times in the slots but it kept slipping. I was about to give up when I tried a flat head bit in my new right-angle drill attachment and voila! It had just the right amount of torque, in the perfect spot I cut, to turn it loose. And as a bonus I didn't cut into the valve cover deep enough to damage it!
bad bolt.jpg
valve cover.jpg


Both of the covers were on extremely tightly and I needed the pry tool to get it off, along with a lot of pulling. I'll post a pic later of where I used the pry bar to get leverage.


There is a hose attached to the covers which from what I understand stays on. It does rotate easily though so you can manipulate it to get it out of the way to clean things up. I ended up bungeeing the cover to the hood latch.
valve hanging.jpg


I cleaned the engine contact area well with a scrub pad and brake cleaner. I couldn't get it all nice shiny metal again, but I made sure that it felt smooth to the touch and I couldn't scrape anything off with a pick or my fingernail.
valve open.jpg


I used papertowel and brake clean on the top in the channel which the gasket sits, and soaked up a few spots where oil had pooled due to hanging in the air.


I put the new gasket in the cover and then hand tightened the screws just to start them. I had trouble on the passengers side on the back bottom bolt and had to take the others out and re-position in order to get it. I used the sequence in the guide and did it like 3 times, hand tight (just long torx), then use rachet to get it snug, then use torque wrench to go to 9nm.


I did not use any gasket hold stuff, or rtv. We'll see how long it lasts for.


Then do everything in reverse to re-install, new plugs, etc...
I'll add/revise as I get a chance here.

audi bug

Nice!

Thanks for sharing pictures, tips, and guides.
I need to do this for mine too.

!staudi35

I did mine last year (7k miles ago) and now started to leak again. I saw a puddle of oil underneath the driver side engine.
Let us know how your turns out.
I have an Indy Audi mechanic gave me an estimate for the job; it will cost $295 parts & labor per side. $500 for both sides for a discount.

Im thinking of just trade it in; but I just spent $300 oil canister gasket replaced last month (where the oil filter sits) ; and $1,000 for new tires. Now $500 for valve cover gaskets. My car has 117k miles.

Im just concerned what other major repairs will I need to do? Or should I just trade it in???