Glacier6

Hey guys, just wanted to detail a little project I completed last week thanks to some guys on Audizine who shared their experience.

As most know, the B&O is excellent with regards to the mids and highs, however the lows can be a bit underperforming. You can tell why once you remove the actual subwoofer. It fails in comparison to many well regarded after market subs in magnet size and depth. It didn't help that mine was on the fritz as well so it worked out to be perfect timing to test a replacement - the JL Audio 8w3v3-4.

Now, there is some extra work involved since the JL, as mentioned, has a much larger magnet and mounting depth, so you'll need a heat gun to reform the factory box to allow it to fit. I would not recommend going with the small cheap version from Home Depot. It got the job done but it took much longer than if you had a larger heat gun and could heat a larger surface area more efficiently. Ended up burning some tiny holes in the box as well, but nothing a little gorilla glue couldn't solve.

Once I was able to mold the box enough for it to fit, I just used the factory speaker wire to connect the new sub. The diameter is perfect at the sub opening, however the screw holes don't line up exactly. I lined up one and then just drilled the rest into the plastic without issue.

For the results....head over heels better than the factory B&O. The bass response is much cleaner, sharper, and deeper. You can actually feel the bass now depending on what level you prefer. The only negative I could find is that some of the shallower bass notes can go unnoticed, however the mid and deep bass lines are absolutely awesome. Best $200 I've spent in quite a while and couldn't be happier.

scobell6

I have Bose system and find the subwoofer and tweeters poor. Has anyone tried removing the grills above the dash tweeters? Appreciate any advice given.

scobell6

I should have mentioned I have a 2017 A7. Great car!

Glacier6

Not sure on the tweeters, but the subwoofer is little more involved for those with Bose.

The factory amp can't handle a replacement sub, so an additional amp would need to be installed to accommodate the added power needs.

Glisse

If you can't hear the upper bass, that is often due to phase cancellation; the sub and mids may be producing, say, 150Hz signals, but at opposite phase, so will cancel each other out.

You could try reversing the speaker wiring for the sub and see if that is better.

jsilas

Any photos of the installation? Is your car equipped with ANC (I don't think it does - pretty sure it's only on models with the V8)? I've considered doing something like this in my S6, but I worry about the ANC implications.

Glisse

Whilst waiting for Glacier, you should note the B&O sub location in an A7/S7 is in a sealed enclosure in the trunk floor area. I think the A6/S6 may use the rear parcel shelf?

You are correct that ANC is for the TT V8 with CoD, and yes, it could be an issue if there is any difference in the efficiency (which is quite possible) between the OEM subwoofer and any replacement.

jsilas

This is true with the B&O system in the S6 also. BOSE and base audio options use the subwoofer position in the parcel shelf.

The concern is the ANC interaction.