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I replaced the OEM sub and took some pics along the way. End results are not bad at all.
I dont have the B&O system my box is the standard, however I heard that even the B&O system has the same box.
3 nuts hold in the box and the on that is on the ridge of the upholstery is the hardest to get out, you have to tilt it towards you while pushing forward, once all the nuts is off.
Here is the box out and ready to be opened.
There are several screws around the box, once that are all out, the next part is prying it open. Its sealed with a rubber stripping/gasket.
To get it open you can either (a) break off an area and use a flat head screwdriver, or (b) use a heat gun on low heat to ease up the glue. Of course I only thought of the second option after I had already broken off part of it. LOL
Finally it's open. These may be the first pictures of what's inside. The main reason why I'm replacing it cause this old boy started popping on me, I knew it was a matter of time before it went out.
The speaker is approx. 6.1" with a depth of about 2.8"
The Replacement is a Kicker CompRT 43CWRT672 6-3/4" Dual 2-ohm Sub, 150w RMS / 300w max. Being slightly over size means there is going to be some breaking of plastic ahead.
This is the first test fit.
This block on the second half of the cover needed to be shortened. No Dremel so I had to think of a more clever way to remove part of it.
Because the new sub was slightly wider, I was afraid that part of the screw taps and these ridges was going to damage the sub. So.. I removed as much as i could without completely destroying it. I still needed part of the old sub mounts as stands for the new sub.
Now I feel better.
At first I thought it would be wide enough to use some industrial two sided adhesive. I was wrong. But since I already put the adhesive on the sub I had to leave it on. However, It still will stick to the parts of the old mounting taps so that will be helpful. Why keep and use the old mounting taps? This speaker need at least 5 cm of clearance when bass really drops and cone protrudes out.
With everything in place I added some bundled up shop towels as support and as a buffer to keep the sub in one place in case the adhesive failed. Note the wiring, I eventually had to pull it back out to connect the second voice coil and make it a 4 ohm connection.
Slap the logo on there and installed it back in the car.
At first, for some songs I can feel some of the sub; however, this was at volume levels between 10 and 18 (I usually don't go passed 20). My first thought was the OEM amp isn't powerful enough. Then I decided to go past 20, for almost all songs I tried between 24 to 29 you can really feel it and it is good.
While the OEM amp is powerful enough to use the sub, it isn't powerful enough to drive the sub fully a lower volumes... no matter, I'm pleased with the results and might add a compact amp for it as well... we'll see.
I replaced the OEM sub and took some pics along the way. End results are not bad at all.
I dont have the B&O system my box is the standard, however I heard that even the B&O system has the same box.
3 nuts hold in the box and the on that is on the ridge of the upholstery is the hardest to get out, you have to tilt it towards you while pushing forward, once all the nuts is off.
Here is the box out and ready to be opened.
There are several screws around the box, once that are all out, the next part is prying it open. Its sealed with a rubber stripping/gasket.
To get it open you can either (a) break off an area and use a flat head screwdriver, or (b) use a heat gun on low heat to ease up the glue. Of course I only thought of the second option after I had already broken off part of it. LOL
Finally it's open. These may be the first pictures of what's inside. The main reason why I'm replacing it cause this old boy started popping on me, I knew it was a matter of time before it went out.
The speaker is approx. 6.1" with a depth of about 2.8"
The Replacement is a Kicker CompRT 43CWRT672 6-3/4" Dual 2-ohm Sub, 150w RMS / 300w max. Being slightly over size means there is going to be some breaking of plastic ahead.
This is the first test fit.
This block on the second half of the cover needed to be shortened. No Dremel so I had to think of a more clever way to remove part of it.
Because the new sub was slightly wider, I was afraid that part of the screw taps and these ridges was going to damage the sub. So.. I removed as much as i could without completely destroying it. I still needed part of the old sub mounts as stands for the new sub.
Now I feel better.
At first I thought it would be wide enough to use some industrial two sided adhesive. I was wrong. But since I already put the adhesive on the sub I had to leave it on. However, It still will stick to the parts of the old mounting taps so that will be helpful. Why keep and use the old mounting taps? This speaker need at least 5 cm of clearance when bass really drops and cone protrudes out.
With everything in place I added some bundled up shop towels as support and as a buffer to keep the sub in one place in case the adhesive failed. Note the wiring, I eventually had to pull it back out to connect the second voice coil and make it a 4 ohm connection.
Slap the logo on there and installed it back in the car.
At first, for some songs I can feel some of the sub; however, this was at volume levels between 10 and 18 (I usually don't go passed 20). My first thought was the OEM amp isn't powerful enough. Then I decided to go past 20, for almost all songs I tried between 24 to 29 you can really feel it and it is good.
While the OEM amp is powerful enough to use the sub, it isn't powerful enough to drive the sub fully a lower volumes... no matter, I'm pleased with the results and might add a compact amp for it as well... we'll see.
So I'm looking to do this as well....was it plug and play after changing the subject??
10-08-2016, 07:46 AM
Replacing OEM Sub
