omarcarbomb

Drove the car to the bank. Came out 5 mins later and won't start.
Had it towed home figuring it must be something simple.

When you turn over the key the only thing that happens is the ABS controller clicks and the headlight leveling makes noise. No starter.

Battery is new and charged with 12.5v

really hoping that it is simple. Haven't had much luck finding trouble shooting guide for running down relays, fuse's, ignition switch, starter, multifunction switch etc.

Does seem like clicking sound in shifter is louder does 2000 have shift lock solenoid not sure which thumping sound comes from shifter console is.

Would appreciate some direction to debug this.

In my first car (76 chevy) you could tap the starter with a hammer but in this A8 the starter is buried so far up in there. BTW there is no sound from the starter at all.

Any ideas?

tozoM8

Sometimes the park neutral safety switch acts up.

omarcarbomb

I have tried running it through the gears and tried starting in neutral.
No luck.

Have a new code

18012 - Internal Control Module: Output Driver IC Error
P1604 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

omarcarbomb

Turned out to be ignition switch!

2000 A8 180K engine when ignition switch broke WAS running BOSS.

Smooth and quiet. Only issue slow valve gasket leaks (typical) so burns some oil and only engine code was rare but occasional.

16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16692 - Cylinder 8: Misfire Detected
P0308 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent


Glad to have it back.
Driving the S8 for 4 months certainly was probably why I let A8 sit for too long.

Now the A8 engine has valve clatter at descending RPM around 1600RPM.
sounds like cylinder 5 or 6 near front on drivers side.

No engine codes.

Put seafaom in tank and crankcase. Too early to see any change.

Any Ideas on why A8 sits for 4 months gets new ignition switch and now has cranky valve other than just gummed up from sitting too long?

S8 in shop for crankcase bolt coming loose and timing belt skip.
Praying no bent valves.

twentysevenlitres

I would say sticky lifters from sitting for a while.
Would suggest some 'lifter free', but as you have Seafoam in the sump I'd let that do its thing for a little while...

omarcarbomb

thanks for feedback

That product is impossible to find online.

I think I'm done with additives it was an experiment.

Going to go with oil/filter change then rinse repeat again in less than 1000 Miles

Switching both my Audi's to Shell Rotella T6 5W-40
Works for me cause my My Kawasaki Ninja's new engine I put in over Xmas likes the T6 too.

one oil for my garage works for me. and my local Walmart has it.

silverd2

Orrrr...maybe something more likely in a 40V motor:

Lifter noise (even after long term non-use) in a 40V motor is not common or even likely, due to the design of the lifters ("spacers") in this engine. They are pre-pressurized (from the factory) little "bullets" mounted in the roller rockers and have a very heavy check-valve at their rear end...oil pressure from your motor, of course, keeps them pressurized during operation and does not tend to bleed off or get sticky with time when not in use, as do older designs (32V motor). Here >>>

quattroworld.com Forums: Nope...Roller rockers with removable hydraulic lifters mounted within the rockers >>>

Since the OP's "sound" seems to be coming from near cylinder #5, I would be looking to the bank #2 cam adjuster (right there at #5)...especially since it is a low rpm noise. I've found that an adjuster that has worn beyond just start-up rattle (very early failure of adjuster, pressure loss ) will rattle constantly at idle and low rpm when engine is fully warm (lowest oil pressure). It sounds REALLY bad at the late stages of failure...first like dry lifters and then as loud as bad rod bearings. The misconception of what is making the horrible noise has lead to many a misdiagnosis. Here >>>

quattroworld.com Forums: Adjuster rattle Follow-up, with new "knowledge" >>

I could be wrong
Cheers

omarcarbomb

Silver D2. Have to give it up to you. As usual you are right on point and have all the links to back it up.

We have discussed misfire codes and noise on this car in past few years and I have the Blauparts valve cover casket replace kit sitting in garage for over a year.

I do believe it needs new cam tensioner/pads and of course new valve cover seals to cure oil leaking issue.

Car is at 180K I plan to get another 50K miles out of engine/car because I put a rebuilt tranny in that has 30K miles on it and is running smooth (has had its fluid and filter changed once already since rebuild - was done when it switched cars)

I think I need to decide if I’m going to commit to this car and give it one more timing belt (current one at 50-60K miles) and have timing belt and valve cover job done simultaneously.

The current problem that is making the car nearly un-drivable is climate.
I will post another thread.

omarcarbomb

This S8 had NO noticeable sounds of pad wear (clatter) when it threw its crankshaft bolt, then timing gear, then took dump on itself (see Audi design catastrophic failure mode)

I'm posting these pics as proof that camshaft tensioner pad wear is most likely existent on all high miles D2 engine.

Now certain it’s the cause of my A8 clatter.

This is pad from NON clatter engine!