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So is it correct that I need to find a valve body part that has the same casting number on it? (It is tough to read, very rough surface.) Am I assured it'd be the correct one if I get it out of a DPZ trans, which mine is?
Audi A8 Quattro 4.2 liter 1997 09/96 – 11/96 DPZ
OE trans # 01L 300 041B
ZF trans # 1058 020 004
Looking at the location of the crack, it seems it might leak fluid to the pan from this long passage next to the edge of the valve body (if it were wide enough to leak fast enough to keep ahead of whatever's pressurizing this passage):
What symptoms would I see (and why, trans gurus)? I'm torn between getting another upper valve body (somewhere, maybe a whole junkyard trans if the valve body isn't cracked) and trying a test drive again, or just dropping the whole trans and pulling it apart. But I hate to drop it and pull it apart without knowing exactly what's wrong first. And if the crack isn't wide enough to leak fluid faster than it could be replenished, then replacing the valve body wouldn't help anyway. The replacement of only fluid and filter and test driving would seemingly be a first troubleshooting step, since the service manual says bad level or contaminated fluid could cause the P0730 code.
I'm not sure what symptoms you'd be getting hill, but since the VB is already cracked, and you're looking at replacing it, I'd try going at it with some JB-Weld.
Doesn't seem like that'd be the reason for the cable locking up tho
got the crack welded, manual valve changed, no jamming anymore
welded by Eriksson Industries (Connecticut)
Eriksson said they could send me a replacement upper valve body already welded, but we couldn't be sure about the part numbers, so I sent them mine and they welded it. $135. 1 day turnaround. Nat Wentworth there said they had done quite a few of these. (I was initially thinking JB Weld, too, but didn't trust it with all the heating up and cooling down, plus my doubts about being able to get the valve body clean enough for it to stick.)
He also told me that the plastic manual valve has been known to absorb water (?) and swell, making it stick in the bore. So I bought an upgraded manual valve (metal) from him for $15. Also bought a replacement valve body he'd reamed out and installed an upgraded Sonnax pressure regulator valve in, $125. (I understand this fixes a common issue with breaking the A clutch drum when the regulator sticks in the bore and can't relieve the pressure generated by the pump during a higher rpm blast.)
So with these 3 changes and a fluid and filter change, I still have the loud clunk on pulling away in Drive, followed immediately by limp home mode. But a 5 mile drive doesn't jam up the selector anymore, so I assume it was the manual valve replacement that fixed this.
Now I want to confirm what the issue is before I yank the trans and pull it apart (if possible). I suspect a broken A clutch drum, as that is a common problem on these. The A clutch is used in gears 1-4, but not in 5, which is limp mode, if I recall correctly. Reverse is fine. I wonder if I can find a pressure port to see if the A clutch holds fluid pressure without taking the trans apart.
Valve body manual selector valve bought fairly cheap (Eriksson Industries) and replaced; this cured the selector binding when trans warmed up. But blown A drum found on disassembly (of course), trans rebuilt in the garage (months!). Runs great now, but drips fluid (aargh!) out the front somewhere. Screw it, I'm driving it, at least for now, topping off when needed. Too bad there's no dipstick; it's cumbersome to check fluid level.
My D2 was in limp mode in 2018. I flushed out the tranny, I recall doing this, undoing all those bolts in the dead of winter on my back without a lift !!!! Didn't help and sold her for $500 ... still miss that car. I wasn't aware there was any shop here in Boulder, CO that could do the work properly. I recall some lady in NV that could do the job but of course the cost of transportation and $3000 for there rebuilt tranny was a deal breaker. Every single D2 will have a blow tranny at some stage. I also need a timing belt job, new engine mounts and subframe bushings, car had 190k on it. Trick is to find one that has all of this done for $5k I recall the transmission place in Longmont can do the job and the owner actually showed me a taken apart D2 tranny, wow what a beast! So that might be an option.
Ooops hillpc I admit I was thinking of the switch at the front of the transmission and thought that was the F125. That's my mistake, sorry to be confusing
I had the code for incorrect gear ratio as well but mine had to warm up before it began slipping out of gear and eventually going into Limp mode. Makes me think yours is actually an electrical issue. I've got the number to ZF America lying around somewhere if you wanted to call and pick somebody's brain about why it's going into Limp immediately. The trans techs were very helpful when I was having issues
hey was wondering what it was that was making yours pull up a incorrect gear ratio coding? Mine is doing the same and also throws this code p14500 - solenoid valve supply voltage shortcircuit to b+. Was odd cause I just got the car, everything was running great. Came home from work was fine.. next morning was slipping right away then goes into limp mode! Any help would greatly be appreciated...
12-01-2015, 03:26 AM
I recall the transmission place in Longmont can do the job and the owner actually showed me a taken apart D2 tranny, wow what a beast! So that might be an option.
