AudiNut87

So i have the dreaded oil cooler leaking and the dealer wants to pull it all apart.

They directed me to the stainless version of the short pipe as they say the reason its leaking is the plastic pipe is 1 shot. (P/N 077117411A)

Here's the kicker though, they want $1,000 to install a $29 part ! Is this correct, or should I price it at an indy ???!


Billet Stainless VW/Audi 4.2L V8 Oil Cooler Tubes !

nyrobbie77

here is the link to the oil cooler removal: Audi pages oil cooler removal It's not the part cost that's driving it, its the labor. This is NOT an easy procedure. According to audipages, it is approx. a 7hr job. Perhaps someone with alldata or the like can look up what the published labor time is. So if we take 7hrs of labor x average hourly labor rate of $120 (your dealer may be slightly more or less) that's $840 for labor, plus the $29 part. So a $1000 estimate based on that which probably includes some incidentals like topping off coolant, oil and filter change sounds about right.

going to an indy shop may save you some, but only because their labor rate may be slightly less. Just make sure it is a reputable shop that knows these cars. If you were hoping to hear that an indy shop would only charge you $200 and the dealer is out of their mind, unfortunately that's not the case. This is a big labor intensive job. all for a $29 part.

silverd2

That IS indeed the going price at dealers...and after doing the job myself, I fully understand. If I was doing this for my best friend at home, I'd charge at least $500 for labor...I'd rather do 3 timing belt jobs (easy as hell, in comparison) than to do the cooler pipe again...ROYAL PITA, especially on a 40V engine. Audi ingeniously switched the position of the outside coolant pipe on the 40V to go over the cooler body, rather than attaching to the end, like the 32V version.

Do it yourself, like most of the rest of us...it will be a life-changing experience...you'll feel like the sole survivor of a commercial air crash when you're finished

S8ilver

I'm shocked that a dealer would recommend an aftermarket part! It's the correct advice, just shocked is all. My local Audi dealer would insist on installing the plastic crap and then count the days till I had to have it replaced again. The part number you mention is in fact the OEM plastic version. The aftermarket pipe with the double seals should be aluminum, not stainless steel. I only know of the one guy on Ebay that sells them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Audi-oil-cooler-pipe-for-4-2L-V8-Engine-A8-A6-RS6-Phaeton-/261324657410?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd829d302&vxp=mtr

JoePGT5S

I'm also quite surprised a dealer would recommend an aftermarket part. That alone would make me really trust that particular dealership and want to use them.

Also, it does indeed look like a new stainless steel product on the market (shame since I already purchased the ebay aluminum one).

S8ilver

I don't think it's a shame at all...aluminum will hold less heat (aka seals will stay cooler).

From gruven site:
The plastic tube or even softer metal versions often break or corrode causing coolant leaks that could lead to the ultimate failure of the engine. The removal/installation of the oil cooler on these cars can cost alot, so dont put a plastic or soft aluminum tube back in. Do this job only once with our Billet 303 Stainless tube with 4 Viton O-rings.

I don't necessarily agree with the breaking (aircraft aluminum can take a lot of cyclic stress) or corrosion of the "softer metal version." I guess if it's on the internet it must be true, but as an experienced engineer, I disagree. There's a reason our cars are made out of aluminum, not just lightweight and strong but corrosion resistant! Time will tell I guess. I'll eat my words if Gruven can document a single case of a cracked/corroded aluminum transfer pipe.

AudiNut87

Its an independent not a Audi dealer (well they do sell used but not a Audi dealer, sorry) They always figure out the best way to do things. I rarely go to the Audi dealer because like someone else said, they would put the plastic replacement in and be back in same boat in a little while, definitely dont want that. I will check out that ebay 1 as well, although I dont like buying off fleabay, burned many times. Would also much rather have stainless than aluminum if its all the same. And thanks for the motivation but no way for me to do this job in a condo parking lot. I think I would get evicted if I raised the hood with all these tightwads living here !

silverd2

I fully agree here...aluminum is perfect for the job, maybe because it softer(?).
The original plastic piece doesn't "break" as such...it decomposes on the engine side, because of heat from the block...NOT any physical stress it's under, which it is not.
I would absolutely use aluminum here over stainless, even if it cost more...the aluminum version has been sold for years and there has not been even one stated case of failure anywhere.

P.S. EBay is the safest purchasing and selling platform on the planet...you can only get "screwed" if you don't follow through or don't read the posting correctly. Craig'sList and similar is totally unprotected and full of scams...I've bought ans sold on eBay for years (worth the seller's % they get) and the reason I use them is that they (and their bank, PayPal) truly protect the buyer and the seller, if you just pay basic attention to what your doing.

YRA928

I too have this leak problem. Is it worth doing the timing belt and water pump at the same time - ie are there a common set of components to remove making it worthwhile getting my mechanic to do all at the same time?

nyrobbie77

if you are near needing the timing belt/water pump replacement I would do it at that time. access is much easier once the front end is in service position. per the instructions on Audipages.com you can do it w/out removing the front end but it is much harder.