rbjones17

I took off the drivers side head and removed all valves. There are no bent or damaged valves. I replaced the valve stem seals, and am reassembling it with new gaskets, cam shaft seals, etc.

When I removed the head, I realized that I am missing the following bolt.




I made a yellow arrow pointing at the missing bolt. It is directly to the rear of the rear-most oil cooler top bolt.

Does anybody know what the part number is?

Thanks,

Rich

rbjones17

Hello all,

Getting the car fixed was a royal pain but it is now done and for that I have great satisfaction. Thanks to everyone for the help.

I summarize the problems and the fixes here:

Problem: Car died on first cold winter night. No codes on OBD. The mechanic performed leak down test and indicated no compression on bank 1; oil all over timing belt; and recommended junking car for fear of bent valves, etc.

I took the car home and diagnosed that the timing belt had slipped several teeth on the bank 1 cylinder thus retarding the timing of the cam shaft relative to the crank.

I figured that this would be a good time to disassemble head 1 and check the valves.

All valves looked fine; no problems. However, one valve had a marked place in the stem that made it difficult to remove from the head so I replaced it with another valve from a used head.

I went ahead and replaced all 32 valve stem seals, head gaskets, camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, oil pump seal, valley pan seal, front main gasket, rear coolant pipe seals--I did the oil cooler gaskets back in July.

Along the way, I encountered several minor headaches:

1) the eccentric tensioner bolt stripped the inside bolt hole when I torqued it to spec; I suspect that this stripped bolt hole was the source of the timing belt loosening in the first place. I sourced another aluminum plate from an Audi junk yard in Germany so I spent 10 dollars instead of 200.

2) I put the front tensioner pulley on backwards the first time and it scraped against the inside and made cranking difficult and it took me a bit to realize that I done this so I had to take it apart and put it back together again properly;

3) The crankshaft position sensor started shorting out creating a crank/no start situation; the prior owner had wired up the CPS in the back without much protection and whenever I took the manifold out and took the zip ties off, it must have loosened a wire on top. It took me a while to figure out what was causing the no-start until finally I realized that any time that I wiggled that wire, I heard the fuel pump kick on and/or off.

4) The first time that I installed the head gasket on bank 2, I damaged the gasket. It is definitely a pain to get everything lined up while holding the head given the limited space; I therefore purchased another gasket and after waiting a week, I installed the second one. Then after bolting everything back together, I filled the car with coolant and it immediately leaked out the back of the car...sigh. I took everything back apart and realized that I put the gasket in backwards which will make coolant leak from the top side of the head where there is asymmetry. I therefore purchased a third gasket and put it back together as carefully and methodically as I could and then bolted it all back together. I started the car and all looked well until it warmed up and then...drip drip drip, coolant came from the back of the car. Oh no, what now? Another head gasket problem? After looking all around I found dripping on one of the coolant pipes in the rear where I had replace a previously disintegrated gasket. After removing the manifold and taking it apart, it appeared that I had pinched the gasket and damaged it. I therefore replaced that gasket and put it all back together, and now it runs great; no weird noises; no leaks; runs like a new car.

Thanks to all for their help; if anybody would like, I have a parts list of all of the vacuum hoses, gaskets, bolts, washers, head sleeves, VW slimate sealer, assembly lubes, etc. that I used during the job.

Regards,

Rich