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Another start up problem again

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Old 02-05-2016, 04:53 PM
  #31  
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Getting it towed to dealer for diagnostic. Efff it. After that they should tell me exactly what's wrong with it. I dig try to read the codes but I get nothing. Yes it's very clean I've owned it for 5 years. Took very good care it. But I'm tired of this crank no start issue.
Old 02-05-2016, 07:49 PM
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Sorry to hear, hopefully they get it fixed with ease.

Keep us posted.
Old 02-06-2016, 09:18 AM
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I was not suggesting reading codes but rather the values from the sensors it needs to run properly in closed-loop. MAF or coolant temp or similar. This can be done for under $10 with a bluetooth OBD2 interface and Torque app.
Old 02-07-2016, 06:38 AM
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Jfrahm I do have an obd2 scanner. How to I go about reading the values?
Old 02-07-2016, 01:19 PM
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WTF?!?! Step 1 fuel pump. PFL? Oh yeah, Step 2, replace the 2 POS Power Output Stages that power the coils you already replaced with two new ones. It's been said a couple of times already in this thread. The POS are notorious for going bad and don't throw codes.

Absent trouble codes Step 3 would be to VAG Scope all the sensors while the car is running, especially the air and water temp sensors then really run through all of them.

Replace the two power output stages.
Old 02-08-2016, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 160 Holland Ave.
Jfrahm I do have an obd2 scanner. How to I go about reading the values?
One way As I said was a "bluetooth OBD2 interface and Torque app" another is VCDS software, there are inexpensive hardware OBD2 scanners as well but I have no experience with them.
I suppose the power output stages could be dying when the engine warms up also.

My theory would be that a sensor that is not very important during warm-up is reading way off, and when the engine tries to go into closed loop and that sensor data becomes critical then it dies. The Power Output Stages would be simpler and it sounds like a common issue. I suppose a simple spark test with a warm engine exhibiting the problem would be a good test here. Remember you have to make a spark jump 10mm for testing, just seeing a little spark does not tell you enough. It is 10 times harder to spark in the head under compression than it is to make a little spark with a spark plug laying outside the head.
Old 03-09-2016, 07:24 AM
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Did I compression test no compression. My neighbor says engine is bad. But I don't think it's bad if it just cut off on whIle driving.
Old 03-09-2016, 11:00 AM
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So... you have not popped off the top belt covers with a butter knife to see if the timing belt is shredded? If you did a compression check the engine covers are already out of the way.
Old 03-10-2016, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 160 Holland Ave.
Did I compression test no compression. My neighbor says engine is bad. But I don't think it's bad if it just cut off on whIle driving.
I'm trying to decipher this. Are you saying that you did a compression test and have no compression? If this is correct than the poster above is correct and you have most likely lost the timing belt and the valves are bent. Your options are to remove the heads as fix the valves, replace the heads with good heads, or replace the motor.
Old 03-19-2016, 06:21 PM
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I took the timing covers off. Everything looks fine did the timing water pump thermostat and tensioners 15,000 miles ago. Timing belt looks tight and fine. When it cranks I could here a squeak noise coming from under the hood.? I dunno IM exhausted.


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