Front upper rear control arm replacement
07-17-2016, 07:26 AM
#12
Just a few notes for any DIY type that is interested.
1) It IS possible to replace the front upper rear control arm simply by removing the control arm bolt, and the pinch bolt. There is enough room next to the spring to fit wrenches. If you have fresh pinch bolts, this job would take 2-3 hours at most.
2) Frozen Pinch bolt? No air tools? No problem.
- Buy yourself a sturdy C clamp, 21mm sockets, and a random assortment of steel bolts with diameter smaller than the pinch bolt, but different lengths (1", 1.5", 2", 2.5"). --Put the nut back on the pinch bolt, put a 21mm socket over the head of the pinch bolt. -use the c lamp on both of them to push the bolt out.
-Once the nut bottoms on the knuckle, remove it, press the bolt tip all the way in with the clamp
- Now use your steel bolts of different lengths as a pusher for the rest of the way inside the knuckle. Line the steel bolt up with the pinch bolt on nut sidem socket on the other end, and continue to press the pinch bolt into the socket
- If the bolt gets out farther than your socket, just cut the bolt off as close to the knuckle as you can, and start over again with socket and clamp until you pushed the bolt all the way out..
- Now that the pinch bolt is out, removing the upper arms can be tricky. It's hard to know if it's seized in the knuckle, or there is pressure from the suspension on the joint causing friction.
-Either way, just buy a 2 jaw puller, some washers (to put on the tip of the 2 jaw puller which has a pointed tip), and reuse the various length bolts to act as pushers.
Same story to remove the tie rod end from the knuckle. 2 jaw puller to push the end down and out of the knuckle.
-One thing I had trouble with was getting the tie-rod end pinch bolt out. At first the nut loosened, and the pinch bolt was moving inside the joint. The problem is that tie rod end pinch bolt doesn't have a bolt head, it's got a D shape that mates with an edge on the knuckle, once the nut is loosed such that the D shaped head isn't against the knuckle, there is nothing to counterhold the bolt while you try to remove the lock nut, well the lock nut wouldn't come pff out since I could not counterhold even with adjustable wrench, pliers etc.
So I ended up just getting the sawzall out and cutting the bolt in the gap between the locknut and the knuckle. Problem solved.
1) It IS possible to replace the front upper rear control arm simply by removing the control arm bolt, and the pinch bolt. There is enough room next to the spring to fit wrenches. If you have fresh pinch bolts, this job would take 2-3 hours at most.
2) Frozen Pinch bolt? No air tools? No problem.
- Buy yourself a sturdy C clamp, 21mm sockets, and a random assortment of steel bolts with diameter smaller than the pinch bolt, but different lengths (1", 1.5", 2", 2.5"). --Put the nut back on the pinch bolt, put a 21mm socket over the head of the pinch bolt. -use the c lamp on both of them to push the bolt out.
-Once the nut bottoms on the knuckle, remove it, press the bolt tip all the way in with the clamp
- Now use your steel bolts of different lengths as a pusher for the rest of the way inside the knuckle. Line the steel bolt up with the pinch bolt on nut sidem socket on the other end, and continue to press the pinch bolt into the socket
- If the bolt gets out farther than your socket, just cut the bolt off as close to the knuckle as you can, and start over again with socket and clamp until you pushed the bolt all the way out..
- Now that the pinch bolt is out, removing the upper arms can be tricky. It's hard to know if it's seized in the knuckle, or there is pressure from the suspension on the joint causing friction.
-Either way, just buy a 2 jaw puller, some washers (to put on the tip of the 2 jaw puller which has a pointed tip), and reuse the various length bolts to act as pushers.
Same story to remove the tie rod end from the knuckle. 2 jaw puller to push the end down and out of the knuckle.
-One thing I had trouble with was getting the tie-rod end pinch bolt out. At first the nut loosened, and the pinch bolt was moving inside the joint. The problem is that tie rod end pinch bolt doesn't have a bolt head, it's got a D shape that mates with an edge on the knuckle, once the nut is loosed such that the D shaped head isn't against the knuckle, there is nothing to counterhold the bolt while you try to remove the lock nut, well the lock nut wouldn't come pff out since I could not counterhold even with adjustable wrench, pliers etc.
So I ended up just getting the sawzall out and cutting the bolt in the gap between the locknut and the knuckle. Problem solved.
Last edited by Articus; 07-17-2016 at 07:29 AM.
07-22-2016, 04:57 PM
#13
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Hi Brian - they're galvanised.
By appearance I would suggest they're mechanically galvanised (much higher quality and tighter tolerance than hot dipping).
Not sure what Audi do to produce that green tinge to theirs, but galvanising is an excellent sacrificial coating.
On the galvanic series, zinc and aluminium alloys are very close together (less reactive).
Articus - the top and bottom edges of the 'D' on the tie rod end pinch bolt fits an open ended spanner quite neatly - don't remember the exact size - 12mm or 13mm at a guess.
By appearance I would suggest they're mechanically galvanised (much higher quality and tighter tolerance than hot dipping).
Not sure what Audi do to produce that green tinge to theirs, but galvanising is an excellent sacrificial coating.
On the galvanic series, zinc and aluminium alloys are very close together (less reactive).
Articus - the top and bottom edges of the 'D' on the tie rod end pinch bolt fits an open ended spanner quite neatly - don't remember the exact size - 12mm or 13mm at a guess.
Last edited by twentysevenlitres; 07-22-2016 at 05:05 PM.
07-23-2016, 08:01 AM
#14
Hi Brian - they're galvanised.
By appearance I would suggest they're mechanically galvanised (much higher quality and tighter tolerance than hot dipping).
Not sure what Audi do to produce that green tinge to theirs, but galvanising is an excellent sacrificial coating.
On the galvanic series, zinc and aluminium alloys are very close together (less reactive).
Articus - the top and bottom edges of the 'D' on the tie rod end pinch bolt fits an open ended spanner quite neatly - don't remember the exact size - 12mm or 13mm at a guess.
By appearance I would suggest they're mechanically galvanised (much higher quality and tighter tolerance than hot dipping).
Not sure what Audi do to produce that green tinge to theirs, but galvanising is an excellent sacrificial coating.
On the galvanic series, zinc and aluminium alloys are very close together (less reactive).
Articus - the top and bottom edges of the 'D' on the tie rod end pinch bolt fits an open ended spanner quite neatly - don't remember the exact size - 12mm or 13mm at a guess.
I picked the worst day of the summer to get this axle back in.
I figured I'd drop the lower arms this time to get the axle back in, but then I had to drop the sway bar, and at that point, might as well do the other side. So hot out!
My 25" breaker bar is king.
07-23-2016, 07:17 PM
#16
I wish. The spot I chose to work in was in direct sunlight all day. Couldn't really move the car since I had the axle out already. I was only able to replace the lower arms on the one side, just couldn't figure out how to get the arms out of the knuckle, until I just hit harder and had a ball joint removal tool. At that point was just tired of it all.
I think I'll do the other side next weekend. Looks like rain tomorrow and I need to figure out a better way to cut the lower rear control arm bolt off on the other side. I went through 4 saws bits and still didn't cut all the way through. The bolt was very hard, and probably work hardened as I tried to cut away at it. After using all the bits, it only came apart after hitting what was left with a hammer. I haven't reattached the sway bar yet.
I think I'll do the other side next weekend. Looks like rain tomorrow and I need to figure out a better way to cut the lower rear control arm bolt off on the other side. I went through 4 saws bits and still didn't cut all the way through. The bolt was very hard, and probably work hardened as I tried to cut away at it. After using all the bits, it only came apart after hitting what was left with a hammer. I haven't reattached the sway bar yet.
09-04-2016, 10:39 AM
#18
Blauparts in Wisconsin sells a complete arms kit for D2s too. Anyone use this outfit? Their website claims it's VAG OE parts...parts kit is a partnership with Italy's Ocap and Germany's Meyle. When changing out the front suspension, anyone have recommendations on the replacement struts to install...Bilstein or other?
09-04-2016, 03:59 PM
#19
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Genuine front struts are Sachs.
Bilstein are a good brand, but may have different valve settings making them more or less stiff. Comes down to personal choice and $$ I suppose.
Not sure I trust the OCAP stuff. Lemfoerder are the OEM supplier for suspension control arms. I don't know what suspension components OCAP supply to VAG??
I'd trust Meyle or Lemfoerder over OCAP (just mho).
Bilstein are a good brand, but may have different valve settings making them more or less stiff. Comes down to personal choice and $$ I suppose.
Not sure I trust the OCAP stuff. Lemfoerder are the OEM supplier for suspension control arms. I don't know what suspension components OCAP supply to VAG??
I'd trust Meyle or Lemfoerder over OCAP (just mho).
09-04-2016, 04:21 PM
#20
AudiWorld Super User
Yep, Lemfoerder is the best choice ... and TRW. OCAP has a bad rep for short life ... don't what cars they are referring to, but D2's came with nothing supplied by OCAP.
Bilsteins would be downright unpleasant unless you also swap in stiffer springs to match the damping ... or you already have S8 or other shortened/stiffer aftermarket springs.
Bilsteins would be downright unpleasant unless you also swap in stiffer springs to match the damping ... or you already have S8 or other shortened/stiffer aftermarket springs.