160 Holland Ave.

Got a hole in radiator. Lucky I caught the leak before pulling out my driveway. Has anyone ever changed their radiator? Where can I get one for a good price? They're kinda pricey so I thought I'd ask before I start any kind of work.

icrashcars

I just did it. Relatively easy, especially if you have a clean spacious area to work in. No special tools required.

It's also an opportune time to change the accessory belt and perform any front engine maintenance since the front end will be out of the way.

160 Holland Ave.

Thanks for your reply Icrashcars. Where do I start? Take the bumper off got that. What next ? How does the radiator come off

icrashcars

This video will walk you through getting the car into the "service position".

Take car when disconnecting the transmission cooler lines (hardlines into radiator). You may lose fluid, which should be measured and replaced with OEM fluid.

You will also need to disconnect the power steering hard lines. So this is a good time for a power steering flush.
audipages Power Steering Fluid Flush

Replace the Coolant temperature sensor.
Use OEM coolant.

160 Holland Ave.

Ok replaced radiator and all fluids with oem. Everything seems fine. Noticed the temp went up above normal passed the first thick line. Never did that before. It will go to the middle line then back. Temp will rise only when I'm parked. Water pump, thermostat and timing were done last year since then I've only put 4 thousand miles on. Any suggestions?

nyrobbie77

sounds like you have air in the system. there are some bleeder screws at the firewall on the driver side. once engine is warmed and running you can crack them open to let the air out. use caution as HOT coolant can come out. open them slowly till you hear the air escaping. you may need to do this a few times. also be careful with the bleeder screws, they are soft plastic and can deform easily.

S8ilver

Good thing is that if you mess one up, those screws are only about $10 from Audi. $10 for a plastic screw...1st world problems I guess. I bought my dealer's last 3 in stock and the parts guy was nice enough to give them to me at cost. I think they were $6.56 each, plus tax of course.

Use a large flat blade screwdriver on them and you should be fine though. My original bleeder screws were leaking at the O-rings that looked more like D-rings.

twentysevenlitres

They are the same screw as the B6 1.8T manifold bleeder.
Part number WHT000316.
For some reason the B6 ones are only about $6 or $7 each! Plentiful from the likes of ECS and FCP and the like, as well as dealerships.

The multi hex on the outside is 15mm, so you can use a 12 point socket or ring spanner to tighten. Don't torque them though as they shear easily and the o-ring does the sealing anyway (I use a 15mm socket and medium extension like a screwdriver when doing mine).

Be careful around the bleeder housings too as they crack and leak with age along the hose line ($50ea from dealer only if you need to replace them) - can be exacerbated by using screw clamps.


As for slight movement on the temp gauge, mine does it when running the aircon for some reason. In Econ mode, it's rock steady. With aircon running, there's a very slight fluctuation (about a mm of movement of the needle). It's survived 40°C plus temps in summer without issues or coolant use, so I'm not concerned about it.
I'm running a Nissens radiator.

160 Holland Ave.

Thank you guys. I really appreciate your help. Got is squared away. Bled the system and also swapped out my fan clutch noticed it was not engaging when at normal operating temp. Now all is good. Temp is steady and even my a/c is cooler. I'm also running a nessen radiator. Love driving this thing. I was looking at a 2006 A8 L but I have so much new parts on this car I dont want to deal with a d3 and it's air suspension lol jk.

twentysevenlitres

Well done!
Based on that report, I might renew my fan clutch too!