ratbag

Working on the 2000 A8
In the next couple of days I am going to replace control arms and will need to
cut the bolt on the lower arm as per what everybody says to do. No problem
with that but I want to get new ones in advance, can anyone tell me what
size the bolt is and is it anything special.
I was just going to get a couple from the local dealer but they are making it
hard for me and also they don't carry in stock and need to get them in.
If I know what size I can just go to the local nut/bolt shop.

Cheers, thanks.
William

silverd2

Here ya go William >>

suspension; wishbone; wheel hub; anti-roll bar; F ... Audi A8/S8 quattro (A8Q) 2000 year Audi USA 407011

Be sure to save this site (almost as good as an ETKA catalog) >>

parts catalog Audi USA, original Catalog Audi, online catalog Audi USA, Car catalog Audi

Cheers,
Sam

ratbag

Fantastic, thanks Sam.

I have been looking for that site and couldn't find it.

Cheers,
William

mjfloyd1

I'm relieved that this wasn't an orchiectomy thread...

nyrobbie77

Is that the same for the pre-face lift cars as well? I'm doing my lower control arms this week. I was able to get the driver side done by lowering the engine cradle and backed the bolt out enough to get the control arm out and new one in. passenger side I got the old control arm out but having trouble getting the new one in and may have to cut the bolt.

Surprisingly enough, it appears that my control arms are the original ones from 1997 and have 202k miles on them. They have the Audi logo on each of them and the lower rear arms have the bolt inserted the same direction as the factory. I was impressed to see that the bushings were actually in seemingly good shape. they aren't torn or loose. Replacing them as the ball joints are wore out and loose on them. Too bad you can't replace the ball joints and keep the OEM arms.

twentysevenlitres

Make sure you buy 10.9 class (grade) bolts for your suspension too. Audi don't specify 8.8 for that bolt, neither should you!
(Class 8.8 is standard "high tensile" from a bolt shop, you have to tell them you want 10.9. Get zinc plated too)


I prefer this one ;-):
partscats.info
Was size of the bolt (#5 in the diagram) given in the full page of 7zap? It wasn't in the mobile site.

ratbag

I don't know what class they were, I didn't ask and they didn't tell me, they are zinc plated though.
BUT, when I finally checked the new Lemfoerder arms, the lower rear ones come with
a new nut & bolt. I checked the size, length etc. and they are all good so I will be using
them this weekend. The ones that I bought will just be added to my collection.

Cheers,
William.

twentysevenlitres

That's good - the genuine ones have some sort of mechanical galvanising on them which is a better coating than electroplated zinc. And they'll be the right strength

Check the heads on the bolts you bought - the strength will be cast on the top. If high tensile, they'll have "8.8" or "10.9" on there. Mild steel bolts sometimes have "4.6" printed, or can be blank (blank heads assume mild steel).

When dealing with suspension (or a lot of other parts for that matter) on cars, it's critically important to have the correct rating on bolts. I can't stress this enough!

ratbag

I checked on top of the bolts and the ones that came with the new Lems arms are marked
as '10.9' so all good there.
The ones I bought from the local bolt shop are marked '4.6' !!! WTF

Potential hazard averted.

Thanks,
William.

tozoM8

It is holding an alluminum arm with rubber molding. As long as it is galvanized any grade is fine.