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No such thing as a 2000 32V in North America (or anywhere?).
2000-2003 North American model D2's have the 40V engine with variable valve timing...Euro models had the same 1999 - 2002 models.
32V engines ended with 99 models in North America and with 98 models in Europe.
No such thing as a 2000 32V in North America (or anywhere?).
2000-2003 North American model D2's have the 40V engine with variable valve timing...Euro models had the same 1999 - 2002 models.
32V engines ended with 99 models in North America and with 98 models in Europe.
I think the car was manufactured in 99 for the 2000 year. Ive seen some parts with 99 for the year on them.
The engine plastic cover says 5V
Which im not sure if thats what you mean,but with a vin look up it comes up as 32V
That decoding site is WRONG. I put my VIN in and it also said "32V"...even autotrader (and other sites) get this wrong.
You have a 40V engine, as do ALL 2000 D2's...most all 2000's were manufactured in 99, as my 2001 was made in Nov 2000....same with most all car companies.
"5V" x 8 cylinders = 40V
Your motor code is "AKB" (40V) stamped on the top of the engine block and noted on your vehicle ID sticker in the spare tire well.
No offense intended, but your lack of knowledge about your car (and cars in general) is exactly what unqualified and/or dishonest mechanics (most of em) are looking for.
GO TO ANOTHER MECHANIC!! Have them check the belt timing...or to see that the job was actually done...and correctly.
No offense intended, but your lack of knowledge about your car (and cars in general) is exactly what unqualified and/or dishonest mechanics (most of em) are looking for.
GO TO ANOTHER MECHANIC!! Have them check the belt timing...or to see that the job was actually done...and correctly.
This x10000000. Well, the whole post is right on the money, but this especially. That mechanic is trying to eek his way through it, he doesn't have any idea what's going on.
There's definitely some timing issues there, or ignition issues. Would be worth it to check the plugs to see how it's running (rich, lean, just right) and check the gap. Maybe try swapping the coils around and see if the misfire follows them.
After so much waiting I was able to get an appointment At the audi dealership. They came up with the codes
P1624
P0730
Although way before I had some issues when I would reverse. It would take like 2 seconds too get into gear when pressing the gas. Which I think why those transmission codes came up. I still feel if it has to do with the service perform. I still don't believe the transmission would act that bad right after getting the car back. Pretty much as soon as I drove off.
Also some one had mentioned "Unless the 'mechanic' was stupid enough to remove the ATF cooler lines from the radiator (losing ATF) "
this might sound dumb but, that means the lines are connected to the radiator right? Meaning the radiator should have been connected as the timing belt was perform? Because the whole front end was removed including radiator. My understanding is it caused "atf" to spill causing possible low fluid level. ?
Have you had the ATF level checked? This sounds likes a classic case of low fluid.
No they just scanned the car. I was asking to see if it was possible that the mechanic spilled some ATF when he removed the radiator? Causing it to be low on fluid. If so , that way I can have the dealership do a write up so the mechanic can cover the cost of checking the fluid level. An possibly to add more or change it. Since when the car went in. It didn't have those issues. Meaning it's his fault.?
I talked to the mechanic an he said yes it spilled some ATF but that it wasn't that much. An he said in no way it should have affected the transmission. Is this any true? Which I doubt
So I ended up winning my court case about the timing belt issues. Now I decided to go ahead and just change the whole timing belt and accessories myself. Since the price from 2 other shops are 1400$ and 2700$. The dealership wants 2300$. Everything was going good so far but I couldn't seem to find the timing marks on the crankshaft, so I just put cylinder 5 at tdc and then tried to put the camshaft tool bar in place but it won't go in to both of them together. Either when the mechanic put the belt on he didnt have the tool in place. When I put 1 side at a time the tool is at an angle from one side. The angle differs significantly depending on which side I put in first. Any ideas on how to place it in??
02-28-2015, 02:34 PM
