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Part number needed: high point bleeder screw. Does it come with the gasket?

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Old 07-01-2013, 03:37 AM
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Not an easy part # to locate, but another member here found this a while back (A4/A6 part?)...and it seems to be the correct part for D2 >>

Google this >> WHT000316

Here's one supplier >>

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/ES47...2266/ES472266/


Last edited by silverd2; 07-01-2013 at 04:31 AM.
Old 07-07-2013, 12:40 AM
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The entire connecting pipe was cracked and i couldn't find one here (Dealer or independent shops)so i have replace it by one stainless pipe but the bleeder screw is canceled . i have owned the car for almost 7 years and i didn't for once unscrew the bleeder screw .

Is that an important part ?
Old 07-07-2013, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by KEVOZS8
The entire connecting pipe was cracked and i couldn't find one here (Dealer or independent shops)so i have replace it by one stainless pipe but the bleeder screw is canceled . i have owned the car for almost 7 years and i didn't for once unscrew the bleeder screw .

Is that an important part ?
It's the high point of the whole coolant system...important to easily expel all the air out of the system after a coolant drain or major loss of coolant.

Older cars (my VW) just have a small hole drilled in the top of the connecting pipe, just inside of where the rubber hose fits on...bleeding is done by pulling the hose back just enough to expose the hole (but hose still over pipe), then pushing hose the rest of the way on when only coolant comes out when filling system.

If bleeding is needed, any similar procedure will work...at the high point.
Old 07-07-2013, 04:21 PM
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Kev,

Do you still have the old bleeder pipe, or did you chuck it?

The cracking of the plastic pipe where the hoses clamp is pretty common. Mine had cracks and weeping when I first bought it. There's a steel reinforcement pipe inside which makes for an easy and strong repair.

I have a product that I like, which is basically a super glue with a separate filler or "welding powder" called "Rapid Fix" - theres several brands, "Instafix" is another one, available from Auto Shops and hardware generally.

What I did with mine was I cleaned the crack as best I could with Methylated Spirits (pure Ethanol Alcohol - dunno what you blokes call it) and a tooth brush and let it dry. Then I squeezed in a small amount of just superglue to coat and bond to the surfaces inside the crack, let it dry for a few seconds, then carefully poured in some of the "welding powder" to fill the crack, then added the superglue onto the welding powder. The superglue will penetrate and bond the powder filling the gap.
Then simply get a small file or some sand paper, wait for the superglue to set fully and file/sand down flat.
Works a treat!

An improvement I would make if starting again is to perhaps use Loctite 480.
a) its a better product from the superglue side of things
b) It's specifically designed to bond plastic and rubber to steel
c) it's black, so would blend with the pipe better (I can be **** like that sometimes )

_______
EDIT: Just realised there's an Australianism there:
- "chuck it" = throw it away

Last edited by twentysevenlitres; 07-07-2013 at 04:25 PM.
Old 07-07-2013, 11:26 PM
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[QUOTE=twentysevenlitres;24462973]Kev,

Do you still have the old bleeder pipe, or did you chuck it?

The cracking of the plastic pipe where the hoses clamp is pretty common. Mine had cracks and weeping when I first bought it. There's a steel reinforcement pipe inside which makes for an easy and strong repair.

I have a product that I like, which is basically a super glue with a separate filler or "welding powder" called "Rapid Fix" - theres several brands, "Instafix" is another one, available from Auto Shops and hardware generally.

What I did with mine was I cleaned the crack as best I could with Methylated Spirits (pure Ethanol Alcohol - dunno what you blokes call it) and a tooth brush and let it dry. Then I squeezed in a small amount of just superglue to coat and bond to the surfaces inside the crack, let it dry for a few seconds, then carefully poured in some of the "welding powder" to fill the crack, then added the superglue onto the welding powder. The superglue will penetrate and bond the powder filling the gap.
Then simply get a small file or some sand paper, wait for the superglue to set fully and file/sand down flat.
Works a treat!

An improvement I would make if starting again is to perhaps use Loctite 480.
a) its a better product from the superglue side of things
b) It's specifically designed to bond plastic and rubber to steel
c) it's black, so would blend with the pipe better (I can be **** like that sometimes )

_______
Ok thanks for the info i will see if i can find the welding powder and do the "JOB"
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