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Re-program key fob procedure for D2 THAT WORKS PLEASE

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Old 09-22-2013, 06:11 PM   #1
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Default Re-program key fob procedure for D2 THAT WORKS PLEASE

Picked up a low-mileage '00 A8L this past Monday and love it, but after scouring the web (here, audiforums.com and quattroworld.com) I can't find a set of instructions that worked to re-program my single key/fob so I can use the stinkin' remote.

Obviously the two-key solution is out; The various one-key instruction sets (I think I found four?) haven't worked and there's no LED on my fob to even tell if it's alive or not. I cleared the remotes that were programmed per Ross-tech instructions using a vag-com cable I'm borrowing from a co-worker but still couldn't get it to synch up.

If anyone can offer a suggestion it would be much appreciated.

Raz
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Old 09-22-2013, 06:49 PM   #2
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I can only ask two obvious questions:

Are you sure the key fob battery is good?

Have you tried this (right out of my owner's manual, to "synchronize" the master key)? >>>

- Press the unlock or lock button on the fob just once.

- Then within a few seconds (under a minute) put the key in the driver's door and lock or unlock it once.

- Pull it out and try remote functions.
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:35 AM   #3
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I've got no problem with obvious questions.

Just put two brand new 1620's in the fob from Radio Shack (it had none when I got it). I hope those were the correct ones; my searches seemed to indicate they were.

Yep, tried that user manual solution to no avail - but I'll try it again. Also tried the one where you put the key in the car, turn it on, and then press/hold both unlock button on the door and fob at the same time, then do the same thing with the unlock buttons, still not good.

If any other ideas let me know; thanks for responding.

Raz
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:57 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razman View Post
I've got no problem with obvious questions.

Just put two brand new 1620's in the fob from Radio Shack (it had none when I got it). I hope those were the correct ones; my searches seemed to indicate they were.

Yep, tried that user manual solution to no avail - but I'll try it again. Also tried the one where you put the key in the car, turn it on, and then press/hold both unlock button on the door and fob at the same time, then do the same thing with the unlock buttons, still not good.

If any other ideas let me know; thanks for responding.

Raz
Hmmm...my key remote just has one CR2032 3 volt battery. I think 1620 are 3 volts each(?)...6 volts total with 2.

Just checked it...when I put the battery back in, had to go out and reset it by the method I mentioned:

Pushed unlock button once, let go...then put key in driver's door to unlock it...that's it...back to working normal.
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Dog's: '90 Passat wagon

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Old 09-23-2013, 07:36 PM   #5
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Hmmm...my key remote just has one CR2032 3 volt battery. I think 1620 are 3 volts each(?)...6 volts total with 2.

Just checked it...when I put the battery back in, had to go out and reset it by the method I mentioned:

Pushed unlock button once, let go...then put key in driver's door to unlock it...that's it...back to working normal.
Silver,

Tried it today - no luck. And the fob is made to hold two batteries; there is a picture imprinted in the plastic on the side where the batteries go. A cr2032 is too large to fit.

I can tell the fob used to work - the imprints of the lock, trunk and 'unlocked' lock are practically worn smooth.

Any other suggestions for one-key reprogramming?

Raz
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:20 AM   #6
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Apparently the key remote design changed the next year(?)

If the circuitry in the key fob itself has not failed, there's a chance the receiver in the central locking system has. I believe that can be checked through VagCom, but I'm not familiar with the procedure.
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:27 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by silverd2 View Post
Apparently the key remote design changed the next year(?)

If the circuitry in the key fob itself has not failed, there's a chance the receiver in the central locking system has. I believe that can be checked through VagCom, but I'm not familiar with the procedure.
Vag-com report didn't show any errors with it. Before going to the dealer I'll probably get one of the keys off EvilBay, have it cut, and then try the two-key solution. Using the vag-com gives me the ability to delete any keys that were added (which I did) but there doesn't seem to be any way to use it to detect another key. This is assuming that the fob is still functional.

One habit that's dying hard is how I open the trunk. I'll unlock it and then lift up where the plate it (my van had a handle there). I keep forgetting to push the key-hole button on the trunk lid and then lift. Lol...

Thanks for all your help so far...

Raz
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:00 AM   #8
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Default Found a new link

Found this link, going to try this tonight: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...mming-with-VAG
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:11 PM   #9
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I'm thinking the fob may be dead but I have no idea how to confirm this (without coding it to another car, or attempting to do so).

In Vag-com, I can get into #35, central locking, go into Adaptation, but I can't access channel 11 or 21 - none of them give me anything, I just get the error message that the channel is not available.

When I go into the Coding section, for some modules I get documentation (it tells me what I am modifying, like the interior alarm monitor sensitivity, or the fuel consumption percentage adjustment) but nothing is displayed for the central locking.

I can go into the live monitoring mode (where you could see the bit numbers change when a remote key is pressed) and actually monitor the remote buttons but nothing happens when I press a button.


Arrgh!! Maybe I'll just buy another fob?? If any of this rings a bell please let me know.

Raz
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:35 PM   #10
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Default Key Fob

Did you fix your problem with the your Key Fob? I am having the same problem. Your than buying another blank fob and getting a key cut.
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Old 02-16-2014, 07:28 PM   #11
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Did you fix your problem with the your Key Fob? I am having the same problem. Your than buying another blank fob and getting a key cut.
Unfortunately no. Even was able to trade out my fob with another guy who was parting his '00 out, still no go.

So now, just saving pennies for two new keys so I'll have two with good remotes and one as a backup.

Raz
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:31 AM   #12
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So, if you put the key in the driver's door, turn it to lock and HOLD it in the lock position, do ALL the doors lock? same question for unlock? If you turn and hold it in the Unlock position, do the windows eventually start coming down?

If not, then the driver's door key cylinder (switch and wiring) is not talking to the central locking controller or the controller is kaput. This would prevent you from coding a remote using the driver's door lock method.

But I guess the lock controller is OK b/c VAG COM says so?

Central locks work from inside the car?

If you turn the lock in the trunk and...scratches head...is it hold it or turn it twice...can't remember...Anyway, screw around with the key in every orifice where it fits and see if you get a response beyond that one lock you are operating. If so, that's good. It means the locking computer is talking to the various locks.

It sounds like your remote is FUBAR. If the old batteries leaked, that could kill it. They don't much care for toilets, washing machines, romantic walks in the rain or swimming either.


Not to further confuse things, but when you buy a new key, make sure it has the correct transponder pellet for the immobilizer system.

The remote/locks/alarm is one system while the engine immobilizer /transponder pellet is another. They are completely separate.

If you plan on having a second key, you still have to get the dealer to pull the 4 digit pin from your cluster to pair it up with the new key. The key has to have the right class of transponder pellet AND the cluster has to be told to accept this particular pellet as authorized to start the car.

I tried an Ebay key...remote paired up just fine, key cut so it worked the locks, but it would not pair to the immobilizer system. It had the wrong class of transponder pellet in the key head. Finally,I bought just the key head from the dealer, they cut it using just the VIN number (ok, that part was pretty cool), but then I was able to pull the secret 4 digit code and pair it to the car using my trusty Super K VAG something or other I bought from China for $80. End result...Ebay remote snapped together with Dealer provided key head and it all worked fine.

http://www.ecutool.com/Super-VAG-KCA...l#.UwHTK4XAtgk

It probably wouldn't pay to buy it just for this one project, but I've used it for a couple of other procedures as well. The operator "manual" also reads like a bad fortune cookie offering aspirational advice rather than an actual procedure, and the whole process exudes the aura of "I'm gonna brick my ...insert expensive electronic unit name here" every time I fire it up. Out of the box you've got to go online to update the damn thing, and most times you have to do things twice, almost. As in life, persistence pays off with this gizmo...just muddle through, and it all just sort of works out in the end.

So once you get the remote sorted, you've got this mess to sort through. Yay!


Good luck,

Brian C.
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Old 02-17-2014, 05:22 AM   #13
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Default Key Fob issues

Yes the locks work as they should on mine manually. Just cant use the fob to lock or unlock the doors.

I though I had a bad battery in the Key Fob. I was at AutoZone the other day they had fob tester there. The tester said it was working.

The guy I bought the car from said it use to work. then the key went though the wash. I understood that he replaced the key. with another one. Buy didn't want to pay to have it programmed.
My question is would if it went through the wash. Would it ruin the transponder and remote locking? or just the remote locking. The key fob part is 4D0-837-237 P A3/B5 where would I find the transponder part number if there is one? the Key fob I have it has a W stamped on it.

I have a 2000 Audi A8L

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Old 02-17-2014, 08:04 AM   #14
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I don't know if the part number you quote is correct or not, perhaps someone with ETKA access could chime in. But I would hazard a guess that while it may look right, it is the wrong remote for your car.

I transplanted a transponder pellet from an old broken key to a new one. It literally looks like a small glass cylinder. I suspect that it would survive a trip through the wash and that you likely have the wrong one.
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:31 AM   #15
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Default Key Fob

I have a old Audi manual and it says the same for programing a new or reprograming a old one. still need two keys to work. I am trying to figure out if neither key fob works in the first place. Will it still program them or one afterwards.

It's weird cant even use a Super K VAG either. something about the year 2000 A8 nothing seems to work or say it does.

The ross tech I have wont let me do any programing or erasing key fobs either. The only thing I can do while pushing the buttons on the key fob is see the numbers change from 0 to 1.

So my guess is to get a key cut to fit the Ign so I can turn it on then try to program the key fob that I have in the door lock and it should work or at least in theory. Then a pin number for the new key for the immobilizer /transponder I think I could use the ross tech for that. when I get the right pin number. Am I way off on thinking this? Thanks for your input on this, Scott
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:55 AM   #16
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Default Key Fob

Well Called a Audi dealer around here. They don't cut the keys here. Have to order them thru Audi come in around two days. One dealer had 80.00 for the transponder and 64.00 for the remote. then 50.00-60.00 to program both keys $202.00 The other dealer was 212.00 so I'm thinking maybe I will leave it as is. lol that is crazy for a key fob
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Old 02-17-2014, 01:53 PM   #17
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Well Called a Audi dealer around here. They don't cut the keys here. Have to order them thru Audi come in around two days. One dealer had 80.00 for the transponder and 64.00 for the remote. then 50.00-60.00 to program both keys $202.00 The other dealer was 212.00 so I'm thinking maybe I will leave it as is. lol that is crazy for a key fob
There's an independent locksmith in my area (everyone's area I would assume..near civilization) that sells a refurbished key, with new metal he cuts there & full programming (including immob. chip) for $75...or will cut and program the key you bring (OEM or equal) for just $35.

He warned me that some cheap Chinese eBay keys are the wrong metal on the key section and will destroy the proper cutter if not the OEM soft metal..."if a magnet sticks to it, it's wrong", he says.

Look in the Yellow Pages or Google the locksmiths in your area or the closest metro area...you'll find someone who'll do it WAY cheaper than the dealer and do everything in-house.
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Old 02-17-2014, 03:49 PM   #18
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The correct part number for a 2000 A8 is 4D0837231P 01C, where "01C" is just the color code indicating you have a black remote. I think you have the correct remote if the last number is in fact a "1" and not a "7".

Here is the official process, keep in mind the immobilizer must be re-adapted too with the secret 4 digit pin code and you may have to erase the programming first (see bottom section):

Radio-frequency remote control keys must be adapted again, if one of the DTCs 00955 to 00958 is indicated.
Work step of adapting new radio-controlled keys
– Switch ignition on (using an additional key).
– Check how many keys have already been adapted in measuring value block 003 → Anchor.

Indicated on display:
Display field 2 indicates how many and in which memory positions radio-controlled keys are adapted (e.g. 1 unit in position 1).
– Lock vehicle from outside with the key to be adapted by way of the driver's lock door.
– Press the “open” button of the radio-controlled remote key as many times as needed within 5 seconds until the next memory position has been reached (in example 2 times).
Every button depression is confirmed with the emergency flashers.
– Wait 5 seconds.
– Now press “open” button once again for confirmation of the adaptation procedure.
The vehicle key is stored and central locking must unlock
– Switch off ignition and remove ignition key.
– Check function of new radio-controlled key.
– Check display field 2 in measuring value block 003. An additional 1 must now be indicated (in example: 0011).
Read measuring value block 3 ¿
0 0001 0 0000

Display field 2 indicates in which memory positions radio-controlled keys are adapted (in example 2 units in memory position 2 and 1).



Work sequence for erasing memory positions
It is possible to erase all memory positions, e.g. if the customer has lost a radio-controlled key. Proceed as follows:
– Switch on the ignition using a key.
– Then lock central locking mechanically from the outside using a key.
– Press “open/unlock” button on radio remote control key five times at 1 second intervals.
Every button depression is confirmed with the emergency flashers.
– Then press radio-controlled remote button “open” once again after 6 seconds for confirmation of this erasing procedure.
Now central locking must not unlock via the radio-frequency remote control.
– Switch ignition off and remove ignition key.
– Memory positions have been erased, the central locking system must not unlock when operating the “ open” button of radio-frequency remote control.
Up to four keys can now be adapted again.
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Old 02-17-2014, 03:49 PM
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