ThaboTheWuff

So for the last year or more, who knows might be two I've notice the proverbial clicking sound from my front left CV joint. Not super loud and soft enough to ignore. Seems to have gotten a little worse but it's makes a noise just when turning and I don't believe the CV boot is ripped.

Anyway I've been having an issue with vibration on the steering wheel (60+ mph) and I can see the front seat vibrating too. I just saw a video that suggested that this may be related to a worn CV joint. The vibration is not severe at all and most folks would probably not noice it. Old wheels but brand new snow tires balanced and front end alignment due to new tie rod. Of course I should probably swap out front wheels with back or put on my summer tires to make sure it's not the 16 inch rims. Running 65 profile for better snow handling. I also am aware of a clunk from and it's appear to be the left hand side front upper control arm (seems like a pain to change .....) but the noise is there. I swear this car is like the bloody Golden Gate bridge, once they get done painting it they start over again and right after I replace a worn control arm a few months later I hear a new noise .... of course I should replace them all but on a $2k car ......

Just wondering if someone can recommend a good cheapish brand (if there is such a thing). I see folks recommending Raxeles. Anything on RockAuto that can be recommended? I've heard that crappy cheap CV axles can cause vibration so don't want to change out one source for another. 191K and still going ......

( of course if I could find a 2002, silver with all the suspension bits updated, no oil leak, fuel leak, a good tranny and no steering wobble I'd sell my ride in a second!)

Thanks

2001 S8

This guy is parting out his 2003 A8. I'd checked with him. His prices seem to be very fair.

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/par...3-a8l-2915019/

Good luck.

Ok22

Hey, I'm the one parting the 03. The outer boots on mine are bad, but the shaft and bearing still looks good. They were not making noise. Send me a low offer if you want them as is, or I can clean, re-grease them, and put fresh boots on for $$$.

jfrahm

When you have the axle off it's a good time to do the axle shaft seal.

ThaboTheWuff

Do the 03 D2 axles work on a 99? My 99 is on it's last legs so I'm not wanting to spend a ton on this project, just hoping that it will sort out a vibration issue I feel in my the steering at 60mph +. So new on from raxles is about $230 each, not sure how much the generic ones are $80? each. What about shipping, I'm in Colorado? I can probably do the re-greasing.

Ok22

I removed the axles earlier today and just checked the part numbers, 407272AF and 4D0407271S. They should work in a 99. When I googled the part numbers it actually brought me back to the forum: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-.../#post24591304
The outer boots are completely torn, but the bearing feels smooth.
I just calculated shipping the struts and springs to Colorado for someone and it was about $45, I expect the axles will be about the same. I'll sell them to you as is, dirty with torn boots for $5 each plus shipping, so $55 total if the shipping works out. If you want them PM me or reply to my for sale post. I can send pics.

This guy makes some great repair videos, if I don't sell them as-is, I'm eventually going to follow this guide and sell them for a lot more:

JAA 4.2

I had these laying around from when I used to own a C5 A6 4.2. Just used them to rebuild my S8 axles.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-meyle-pa.../4d0498099~my/

Ok22

Here's what I plan to send him. The bearings should still be good. Just get some new boots and follow the procedure like in the video I linked. I may even have boots left from another car. I'll check and see if they look like the right size and throw them in the box if they look good. <update *I checked and the extra boots I had fit a smaller axle.* >

silverd2

Some more possibly helpful info >>

quattroworld.com Forums: Disassembling, cleaning & repacking Outer CV Joints >>>

jfrahm

One tip: It's a lot easier to just run the axle bolt all the way in to pop the CV joint apart than it is to use a railroad sipke and sledge.

Another tip: As supplied the snap ring IMO is not round enough to get the joint back together again, I saw a youtube where the installer taps the clip with a hammer and makes it rounder (off the axle) and this makes it way way easier to get the joint to pop over the snap ring. Do not make the clip useless, just go from impossible to possible. The clip needs to keep the axle located in the inner part of the CV joint when the axle pumps in and out due to suspension travel and steering so you cannot leave it out. They are very D-shaped when supplied and usually won't go into the countersink/bevel on the joint but instead get cut or mashed flat.

Last tip: stay off the new white leather couch until you have been completely decontaminated of all black moly grease. If you wipe your hands on the dog, use the neighbor's dog.

-Joel.