spitanddirt

So before you decide I am an amateur:

The car was purchased with 114,000 miles, I discovered later that the transmission had been removed and/or replaced. I really have no idea, though the tranny code IS correct for the car. Maybe something was replaced inside the transmission, maybe not; I just know that it was out for some reason. I've done transmission fluid changes every 30,000 miles religiously using Mobil 1 Syn ATF using the Ross-Tech and factory fill method with the car on 4 jack stands(I have ELSA on my home computer), soooo...... by my count 4 tranny fluid changes in the time I have owned it. I use Meyle transmission filter kits purchased from Autohaus. Not a drop of transmission fluid ever gets left on the garage floor.

I figure that I've been fortunate to get this many miles out of this transmission and it still continues to drive well on the highway, with the exception that it likes to hunt for lockup on certain hills. On level, straight roads, you wouldn't even know there was a problem. I have the dreaded 2nd-1st downshift clunk most times when I come to a stop. I am due for another fluid change as we speak, but I want to try the coil thing first before I put the car into extended storage for the tranny rebuild. I have already bought the printed factory ZF manual from Erikson Industries. I know what I'm getting into. I'm not looking forward to it, but I like the car, it drives nice, and it's paid for.

P.S. I am a certified FAA Airframe & Powerplant mechanic, I get paid good money to be meticulous and detail oriented. Maybe that's why I like this car.

spitanddirt

The update: I finally got around to replacing my aftermarket (no-name-made-in-China) coils with Genuine Audi(Hitachi) coil packs.

As I suspected, my driveability issues have gotten much better than before. I know very well that my torque converter clutch is limping along as it still hunts for lockup in all gears while using "Drive." If I use TipTronic, it's less likely to come out of lockup, but it can at times.

The point is that my aftermarket coil packs are a band-aid, AT BEST. I've come to the conclusion that using OEM coils in this case is the best decision as is using a OEM crankcase vent valve-but that's another topic. :-)

What I found most interesting is that when using the China coils, everything was fine until I got up to temperature, then they started acting up. The Hitachi coils do not do the same thing. Once the car warms up, everything becomes more predictable, as in, I can tell when the torque converter wants to come out of lockup. Where as before, shuddering and lockup would occur randomly.

<B>And FYI, I just turned over 228,500 miles.</B>

twentysevenlitres

I've got a mate who's a 737 (classic and next gen) airframe LAME with QANTAS. He's meticulous with everything too!
Probably why we get along so well!
Took his Pajero (Shogun to you fellas) Four Wheel Driving once where it got particularly wet and muddy. As preventative maintenance he changed the gearbox, transfer case, front and rear diff oils and serviced the engine!