storka

Actually near the black plastic vent on he rear side trim.
That is I'd yours is setup the same as mine.
The earlier photos in this thread show behind the radio.
You could look at that.
Get a mirror and touch and see if there is room and mountings.

silkworm

Here are the pictures you asked for, I hope I got them right (sorry, there are many shadows because it was a sunny day). Also there are some other pictures that you didn't ask for, along with some detailed information that may help others.

The OEM camera doesn't share space with the number plate lights, but with the boot lid opening handle, which got smaller to make room for the camera. There is a particular shape to fit the camera, as you may see in the pictures, so you can't just swap the handle with the smaller one and just put the camera near it, you have to buy the entire frame instead (P/N 4E0 827 576F - please see the first picture).

Replacing the entire assembly raises some issues. First, pay attention while unscrewing number plate lamps - usually they are corroded and you can break the screws. I tried several methods to unscrew corroded screws and in the end I broke some (that happened on two different frames).
Second, pay attention to item #39 in the penultimate picture - there is a gasket seal (P/N 4E0 827 599A) that you have to apply when mounting the new frame/assembly. I didn't apply mine yet because I didn't have it, but I am planning to do that.

If you mount the new frame on the original boot lid of a car manufactured before late 2006, you may need to drill a large hole in the lid to make room for the camera bolt (3rd picture). Even after that, you may need to screw that bolt from the inside (after you have mounted the frame), because the retention clip ("securing bar") won't want to pass through the hole, so you may need to fix it from the other side, unless you want to cut the boot lid a bit more.

The retention clips shown in the sixth picture (1K0 937 545M, 3D0 971 930F) will be more useful if you can get the lid from a MY2007+ car, or if you are prepared to drill holes of the right size and shape on your own lid, otherwise you won't have holes to fix them, especially the black clip.

And yes, thinner cable is better, when you have to route it through trunk sleeves. My car was full of wires, both on the left and right sleeves, and I barely managed to route a thin coaxial cable through the left sleeve, and the other two wires (plus another two to make the car ready for facelift tail lights retrofit) through the right sleeve. Imagine I had to bring those two wires back on the left side of the trunk, where the camera module is fitted.

But... I'm only using thinner cable to link the camera to its controller. Because the TV image also passes through the camera controller to reach the screen, I am planning to replace the corresponding cable with a thicker one.

FAKRA connectors... oh, yes! Something I (used to) like... I have the proper tools - connectors, connector housings and crimper. I didn't use the crimper for several years, I had three connectors left and I broke all three And if you think that back then, when I received the crimper and connectors (I retrofitted RNS-E on an A6 4B), I managed to crimp a connector right on the first attempt.

Be aware that:
- OEM connector housings are not compatible with aftermarket connectors;
- OEM connectors are not compatible with aftermarket connector housings;
- aftermarket connectors housings are not compatible with aftermarket connectors if they are made by different manufacturers;
- OEM/aftermarket connectors are compatible with aftermarket connectors because that's a standard.

So I couldn't pair my OEM connector housing with the aftermarket FAKRA connector anyway, even if I managed to crimp it right. That's why I soldered the coaxial cable (the person who sold me the kit gave me the cable cut at both ends so I had a spare connector with a cable tail).

When soldering the coaxial cable, it has to be properly cut, so the core can be soldered and then insulated (with heat shrink insulator), and then the sleeve from both sides have to be joined together. To be sure, you can apply a thin layer of solder over the sleeve but you must let the cable cool in the process, because if it overheats, the core insulator may melt and the core will short to sleeve.

Good luck!

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

to remove the original one, the locks and the switch?

Thanks,

Louis

storka

You can get the used or new original camera and change out trunk handle to camera version.
I got all new Oem with gaskets.
Row is different to USA.
There is a list of the part numbers somewhere on the rev cam retrofit pages.
Or there is a aftermarket cam that fits in the number plate light.
Kafatec has the cables pre made which is what I used
Just plug them in.

https://www.kufatec.com.au/shop/en/a...i-a8-4e-mmi-2g

silkworm

It was not hard. There are four screw nuts that you have to unscrew form the inside, located at equal distance from each other. Two of them are on the edges, the other two are in the middle and you can see them in the second picture.

A flexible wrench extension may be handy because one of the nuts is harder to reach.

After that, you have to put some strength when you pull the frame, because the seal I mentioned in my earlier post, will most likely glued to the boot lid.

You also have to remove the lock cylinder (two screws) and the connectors from the handle switch and number plate lights (three in total).

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

I don't know how the handle latch works. Do you have the picture?






Cheers,

Louis

silkworm

A picture of what? I didn't quite understand what you need.
That item from your picture is not an A8 frame, it seems to be an A6/Q7 one.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

The trunk latch button to open the trunk lid when we press the handle, between the camera and the lock. I'll open it up and see if the frame will fit. As long as the studs fit the holes on the frame, it will mount?

Cheers,

Louis

Giovanni Giovino 6.0+6.0TT

Hello Louis,


The trunk button is electric, the is no latch cable so to say, when your trunk is open just keep pushing the button and you should hear clicking.




.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

latch with a very little movement from the inside, I haven't remove my original one to see the switch and how it's activated yet. That was my question.

Thanks GG,

Louis